Preparing surfaces for insulation
Before fixing the insulation to the wall, its surface must be prepared. This is due to the fact that the thermal insulation process ensures complete coverage of the wall material for a long time, and only proper processing can ensure the required durability.
In the process of preparing the surface for fixing thermal insulation panels, the standard instructions recommend performing the following operations:
- The base is cleaned of old finishing, plaster and putty . In some cases it is possible to retain the plaster layer, but it should be carefully inspected.
The wall needs to be cleaned - as shown in the photo
- Detected weak sections of the wall are dismantled using a hammer drill or chisel . The cracks are opened with a grinder to a depth exceeding the size of the crack. After this, the damaged areas are repaired either with cement mortar or quick-hardening epoxy mixtures.
Advice! Fasteners for insulation can only be fixed in a sufficiently strong base. If the wall has a tendency to collapse, then insulating it is pointless.
- For thermal insulation using high-density polymer panels, carefully level the surface using plaster . If insulation is carried out using mineral wool or other loose materials, then leveling can be dispensed with.
- To avoid damage to the hay material by fungi, treat the base with a fungicidal composition . This must be done even in cases where vapor-proof materials (foam plastic, polystyrene, penofol, etc.) are used for insulation.
Installation of the base profile
As an auxiliary device for the installation of many types of thermal insulation materials, the so-called base profile can be used. It is a perforated metal plate that is mounted at the bottom of the wall.
The plate is rigidly fixed to the base and serves as a reliable support for the slab heat insulator, preventing it from sliding under its own weight.
Advice! The base profile must be selected depending on the dimensions of the insulation used.
Thermal insulation materials
To understand how to properly attach insulation to a wall, you need to find out the features of each sample. All types of heat insulators are used to reduce heat loss in a room. This group includes infrared reflectors and building materials with low thermal conductivity. The latter are in great demand and can be organic or synthetic in nature.
Reflex type
The principle of operation of the reflector is to slow down the movement of thermal energy. That is, there is no absorption and transmission of IR, as is the case with other materials. The reflection efficiency can reach 97-99%. Such indicators are typical for gold, silver and polished pure aluminum. The latter is actively used in the production of reflective thermal insulation of roll or sheet type with foil coating (1 or 2 layers).
Foil thermal insulation Source stpulscen.ru
Organic material
Here, raw materials of natural origin are used to produce insulation. As a rule, this is waste from the woodworking and agricultural industries. Polymer components and cement are also used as a basis or addition.
Insulation is used in heating conditions up to 150 degrees Celsius. It is relevant for interlayer installation under decorative finishing. Below is a brief overview of samples from the organic thermal insulation group.
Arbolit
The composition includes fine sawdust, planed straw and reeds, and functional additives. The latter include calcium chloride, glass, and alumina sulfate. Cement is used as a binder. At the final stage, the blanks are treated with a mineralizer.
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.08-0.12 W/m*K |
Density | 500-700 kg/cub.m |
Compressive strength | 0.5-3.5 MPa |
Flexural strength | 0.4-1 MPa |
Arbolite insulation Source tildacdn.com
PPVC
Polyvinyl chloride foam is made from porous resins that have a foamy structure. In terms of rigidity, the material can be soft or hard, so it belongs to the group of universal heat insulators. The average density is only 0.1 kg/cub.m.
Chipboard
A rigid board made of wood chips contains up to 10% binders and functional ingredients. These can be synthetic resins, fire retardants, water repellents, and antiseptics.
Characteristic | Meaning |
Density | 500-1000 kg/cub.m |
Tensile strength | 0.2-0.5 MPa |
Flexural strength | 10-25 MPa |
Water absorption | 5-30% per day |
Chipboard insulation Source yandex.net
DVIP
The material is similar to chipboard, only waste from woodworking or pulp production, straw and corn trimmings are used as a base. The binding component is synthetic resins. Functional additives: flame retardants, water repellents and antifungal substances.
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.07 W/m*K |
Density | Up to 250 kg/cub.m |
Flexural strength | Up to 12 MPa |
DVIP slabs Source yandex.net
Fibrolite
The material is made from so-called wood wool - these are thin and narrow shavings. The binder component can be cement or magnesium ingredient. Board insulation is inert to chemical and biological activity, has good acoustic properties and resistance to moisture and fire.
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.08-.01 W/m*K |
Density | 300-500 kg/cub.m |
Fiberboard insulation Source twimg.com
PPU
Polyester, emulsifiers and diisocyanate are used to make polyurethane foam. The result is a material with good acoustic properties, inertness to most chemical reagents, and resistance to moisture at a density of 50 kg/cu m. Thermal insulation is applied by spraying, which allows the formation of a seamless monolithic coating in a relatively thin layer. In this case, the configuration of the base does not matter.
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.019-0.028 W/m*K |
Density | 40-80 kg/cub.m |
PPU insulation Source ivteplosten.ru
Mipora
Rigid plastic is made from a water emulsion of urea-formaldehyde resin. To enhance the strength properties, glycerin is added to the composition. The foaming process occurs thanks to sulfonic acid (a petroleum product), hardening - with the help of organic acid.
Mipora goes on sale in the form of crumbly granules or blocks, or a liquid mass. Unlike similar penoizol, the material strongly absorbs moisture and is not resistant to aggressive chemicals. The technical specifications look like this:
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.03 W/m*K |
Density | Up to 20 kg/cub.m |
Ignition temperature | Over +500 degrees Celsius |
Mipora Source lestnitsygid.ru
See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in home insulation
Expanded polystyrene
The raw material for production is polystyrene, an oil refining product. In its finished form, the material consists of 98% air, since the manufacturing process uses foaming technology. Additionally, fire retardants are added to reduce flammability.
The material is resistant to corrosion and is inert to most chemicals. However, destruction occurs under the influence of ultraviolet rays. Technical properties are presented in the table.
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.036-0.050 W/m*K |
Density | 15-35 kg/cub.m |
Water absorption | 2% per day |
Flammability class | G3, G4 |
Extruded polystyrene foam is made from almost the same raw materials, but the technology is different. Thanks to the extrusion method, the result is denser and stronger, lasting approximately 20 years longer. The characteristics look like this:
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.028-0.032 W/m*K |
Density | 28-45 kg/cub.m |
Water absorption | 0.1% per day |
Flammability class | G3, G4 |
Expanded polystyrene slabs Source avenue.kiev.ua
Foamed polyethylene
A hydrocarbon substance is used to foam polyethylene. Like expanded polystyrene, the finished insulation consists of approximately 90% air, is inert to chemical and biological activity, and has low water absorption. Thanks to its porous structure, the material has good acoustic properties. The technical indicators are as follows:
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.044-0.051 W/m*K |
Density | 25-50 kg/cub.m |
Operating temperature range | -40 – +100 degrees Celsius |
Polyethylene foam mats Source prom.st
How to attach basalt insulation to a wall for facade thermal insulation?
In fact, stone fiber is attached to the walls not to block any elements from view. The purpose of the event is to isolate the vertical surface from the external environment.
Fibrous mineral wool with air perfectly inhibits heat transfer, and the chaotic arrangement of threads can absorb a lot of acoustic noise. But fixing a slab or several products will not solve the issue; a balanced and comprehensive approach is needed. The main task is to select basalt insulation with the appropriate properties, but this is not enough. You need to know exactly how to attach the insulating material and the installation sequence of the entire thermal insulation system.
External systems are characterized by high mechanical and atmospheric load on the finish and the entire fastening subsystem, therefore the fixation must provide sufficient strength and reliability. In addition, the dowels used to secure the basalt insulation must have an athermic head and a supporting mushroom cap.
Let us consider in detail how to attach basalt thermal insulation to walls in plaster facade systems:
- Preparing the base. Basalt insulation slabs are glued to the walls, so their surface must be fairly flat. To do this, repair chips and potholes. Before fixing the basalt wool, priming is performed to strengthen, remove dust from the structure and improve adhesion.
- Gluing mini slabs. Why are special adhesive compositions selected, designed to both attach basalt insulation to the walls and ensure its tight fit to the surface. Such dry mixtures ensure maximum adhesion of thermal insulation to brickwork, concrete walls and other surfaces, have frost resistance of the hardened layer, and special modifications make it possible to attach mini-slabs at sub-zero atmospheric temperatures. The glue is applied according to a special scheme, carefully working out the perimeter and applying the composition in the middle, after which the slab is pressed to the surface. The position of the miniplates is maintained using a level. After installing the first row, the second is fastened with staggered seams so that the joint of the slabs falls in the middle of the bottom line of the slabs. The rule must be followed for all subsequent stripes.
- Doweling. The basalt insulation should be attached to the wall using disc-shaped dowels after a certain time allowed for the glue to dry. Then all work is carried out both on the installation of plaster and decorative layers, and on the final painting of the facade.
To understand the intricacies of attaching mineral wool slabs to facade walls, we invite you to watch a video about installing a thermal insulation system.
Facade insulation using technology with a ventilated gap has a slightly different approach to fixing basalt wool.
- Installation of a vapor barrier. A special film coating that supports the removal of moisture and fumes from the walls of the house.
- Frame structure. The design feature of the ventilated façade involves installing the finishing at a distance from the insulation, so initially a rigid frame system is installed from a profile resistant to corrosion and mechanical loads.
- Laying slabs. It is quite simple to lay mini-slabs between the frame guides. Having chosen products with a certain rigidity and insulating properties, they are installed with light compression of the edges. After leveling, practical basalt insulation for the facade fills the allotted space, which ensures sufficient fixation strength.
- Doweling. Supporting disc dowels must be installed according to the pattern and quantity specified by the slab manufacturer or system designer. Particular care should be taken to attach two-layer thermal insulation due to its increased weight.
- Installation of a hydraulic barrier. The membrane is able to protect thermal insulation from drops of water condensing in the air gap of the ventilation facade.
After proper fixation of the mineral wool insulation, the sheathing is installed, space for ventilation is maintained and decorative finishing is installed.
To understand how to attach basalt insulation to a wall, you need to decide on the method and design of the thermal insulation system. The selection of fasteners, adhesive mixtures and other structural elements of the system will be carried out by specialists and professionals in the field.
A few words about extruded polystyrene foam
Before we begin the technology of external insulation of a house, let’s consider what penoplex is. I’ll say right away that it is more correct to call this material extruded polystyrene foam, since “Penoplex” is the name of the manufacturing company of this insulation.
Extruded polystyrene foam is made from ordinary polystyrene foam (foam plastic). As a result of special heat treatment, it acquires higher properties, and along with them, properties that affect the installation technology and the area of application of the material.
These properties primarily include:
- low level of moisture absorption;
- smooth structure.
Penoplex has a smooth structure
On the one hand, this allows the material to be used in unfavorable operating conditions; in particular, it can be used for façade insulation. But, on the other hand, penoplex has poor adhesion. Therefore, it is not even a façade material, much less intended for “wet” finishing.
The most common mistake made by beginners is that when insulating a facade, they work with penoplex in the same way as with ordinary polystyrene foam. Some construction resources “help” with this, for which would-be specialists write articles. The result of this approach is clearly visible in the photo below.
The photo shows the result of improper reinforcement of penoplex
However, this does not mean that insulating the facade using the “wet” method using penoplex will have to be abandoned. The technology that I will discuss below will allow you to create a reliable and durable finish on top of this insulation.
Beginners probably have a question: why use penoplex if it can be replaced with polystyrene foam, which is cheaper and has good adhesion?
The fact is that extruded polystyrene foam has several important advantages over polystyrene foam:
- has higher strength, and accordingly, the façade finish is more durable;
- is a vapor-permeable material;
- thermal conductivity is lower than that of foam.
Therefore, it makes sense to use penoplex for “wet” finishing of the facade. As for the “dry” insulation, which is used for a suspended facade, this procedure practically does not contain any special features.
Below I will tell you in detail how to insulate external walls with penoplex using both methods.
An example of finishing a house using the “wet facade” technology
Specifics of fastening to different types of walls
Penoplex is an effective insulation material that is popular due to its performance qualities and ease of installation.
One of the key factors influencing the choice of fastening method is the type of surface. The slabs are fixed to different bases using various compounds and additional devices. The correct choice of installation method is the key to the durability and efficiency of the heat-insulating material.
Concrete
Concrete surfaces are porous, which affects the degree of absorption of mixtures. Before attaching penoplex to concrete, the base should be treated with a primer. This will reduce glue consumption and improve the adhesion of materials. To attach penoplex to a concrete wall, you will need not only a layer of glue, but also additional dowels. This increases the reliability of insulation fixation. To prevent moisture absorption by the concrete wall, you will need to lay the slabs in a checkerboard pattern.
Brick
There are many options for installing penoplex to a brick base. Professionals recommend not stopping at this method, but combining different methods. The difficulty in fixing the insulation is the unevenness that has a base. To minimize the negative consequences of this phenomenon, before attaching penoplex to a brick wall, it is worth priming it. The following methods are used to fix sheets:
- glue;
- foam;
- liquid Nails;
- cement mixture;
- dowels;
- self-tapping screws
When using dowels as additional fastening, you will need to pre-drill holes in the brick wall with a hammer drill.
Block
Professionals highlight several rules for attaching penoplex to a wall made of aerated concrete blocks. This is due to the special structure of the material, since block walls are more susceptible to the negative effects of moisture than other types of foundations.
Characteristics
Each product item from the list above has its own unique properties and each has its own positive and negative qualities. Before purchasing a sufficient amount of fastening material, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each type of disc dowels:
Disc-shaped dowel with plastic nail. It is made from nylon, low-density polyethylene or polypropylene. In terms of their properties, these materials are virtually identical, so they should not affect a positive decision when choosing fasteners. Since this fastening material is made entirely of plastic, it is very light, which allows it to be used in any structure without worrying about the load on the load-bearing wall. But there is also a downside to this - you shouldn’t use them to attach heavy insulation, they simply won’t withstand it.
The absence of metal in the composition of the expansion nail gives it additional advantages - immunity to moisture and poor thermal conductivity. The first advantage makes it impervious to corrosion and increases its service life to 50 years, and the second allows it to minimize heat loss
At the same time, during installation, extreme care must be taken when working with a plastic expansion nail. Possessing low rigidity, it has the unpleasant feature of bending and breaking at the most inopportune moment
Disc-shaped dowel with metal nail. It differs from the previous model in that it uses a 6 mm thick galvanized steel metal nail as a fastening element. This significantly increases strength and allows you to withstand the weight of any structures and use them when working with any type of insulation. And unlike plastic, a metal expansion nail will not break or bend. But this type of disc dowels also has disadvantages. A metal expansion nail conducts heat better than a plastic one and can create areas where the wall can freeze, which will not happen with a dowel made entirely of plastic. The second drawback is corrosion. If the wall remains wet most of the year, then the rust will eat through the entire expansion nail through the unprotected head, which will lead to failure of the entire thermal insulation system.
Disc-shaped dowel with a metal rod and thermal cover. This is an improved version of the previous fastener, designed to work in conditions of high humidity. The main difference is the plastic plug that is attached to the dowel head. It prevents the penetration of moisture and reduces the outflow of heat, so such fasteners can be considered more airtight. There are two versions - with a removable plug, which you need to install yourself, and a plug installed at the manufacturer. The second option is more convenient to use, because the plugs are quite small and are stored separately. It is quite easy to lose them during work.
Facade dowel with fiberglass rod. This species appeared on the market relatively recently. It is assembled from the following elements - a clamping part, a fiberglass rod, an anchor element with a spacer zone and an expansion washer, which fits onto the clamping part to create an additional area for fixing the insulation. Thanks to the fiberglass rod, the dowel has high strength and low thermal conductivity. All these elements can be selected separately, guided only by the required dimensions.
Insulation installation options
At the moment, there are two options for attaching any type of insulation and several additional ones, which I will also mention. By the way, these fastening methods can be used to install both loose insulation and denser slabs.
The main methods of attaching insulation to the wall:
- Using glue;
- Mechanically, thanks to special dowels.
Let's consider each mounting option separately.
On glue
There are two types of adhesives for installing insulation. Cement-based, a more popular and affordable composition, and adhesives in the form of polyurethane foam, such compositions have better characteristics, but their cost is much higher.
Dense thermal insulation boards, such as expanded polystyrene (popularly polystyrene foam), penoplex, and other insulation materials with similar properties are usually placed on the glue.
Cement-based adhesives must be mixed in a container with cold water before use. Stir the dry composition in water until a thick, homogeneous mass is obtained, reminiscent of the consistency of rich sour cream. It is important to ensure that no lumps form when diluting the adhesive powder, as this may reduce the quality of the composition.
The glue, of course, is not mixed by hand; for this you need to use a special mixer attachment, which, put on a drill or hammer drill, mixes the dry mixture with the liquid at low speeds.
You need to apply glue to the inside of the insulation board, and in order for the glue to bond the insulation to the wall as well as possible, the outside of the insulation needs to be made rough. To achieve this, I recommend using a special roller or brush for working with foam.
In addition, it is necessary to increase the adhesion of the walls. No, you don’t need to make it rough, it’s usually like that from the very beginning. It is enough to coat the surface with a high-quality primer and let it dry. After this, you can install the insulation on the walls.
For dowels
The second most common method of fixing insulation to walls. Sometimes installing thermal insulation on dowels acts as the main method, but more often, it is an addition to installation with glue for more reliable fastening.
All types of insulation, from polystyrene foam to mineral wool, are attached to special dowels that look like mushrooms with a cap. For example, a foam board is first attached to the wall with glue, and then fixed with several umbrellas.
Mineral wool is usually simply applied to the surface and five holes are made through it in the wall, one in the center and four in the corners of the slab. Holes are made in foam plastic in the same way.
After this, a dowel with a cap is driven into the holes until the cap presses the slab against the wall, then an expanding plastic nail is inserted into the dowel, which, using a hammer, firmly secures the dowel in the wall, and as a result, the insulation is securely held in place .
Other technologies
If insulation is carried out with chipboard or OSB panels, then the slabs of this material are attached to the surface with special brackets. Some roll insulation, for example foil, is sometimes produced with an adhesive composition already applied to the inside of the insulation.
Sometimes, fasteners, as such, are not needed at all. This occurs when insulation, usually loose insulation such as mineral wool, is laid flat against a special wooden frame.
Some insulation materials are glued to the wall, just like wallpaper; for example, cork insulation. There is also heat-insulating paint, which is applied to the surface using an ordinary brush or roller.
Calculation of dowel length and fixation pattern
Fixing the dowel
To securely fasten the insulation to the wall, it is necessary to correctly calculate the length of the dowel. For this there is a formula L=H+I+K+W, where:
- L – final result of calculations;
- H – insulation thickness;
- K – thickness of the plaster or glue on which the thermal insulation is attached;
- I – anchor recess depending on the material from which the wall is made, but not less than 50 mm;
- W – margin taking into account the curvature of the wall.
To understand how long to take fasteners, you need to consider an example. If foam plastic with a thickness of 30-50 mm is used, a layer of glue is 5-10 mm, and the wall is fairly flat, then a dowel 100-110 mm long is sufficient. If the surface distortion reaches 5 cm, then it must be taken into account when choosing the length of the fastener. If you choose insulation up to 10 cm thick, then you need to take a 210 mm dowel.
When the wall is made of hollow materials, the fungal fastener should extend into it by 8-10 cm. Not in all cases, longer means more reliable. The thickness of the walls should also be taken into account. For example, in apartments it is not too large, so an incorrectly chosen dowel can stick out from the back side.
There are several ways to secure insulation. The most reliable method of fixation is considered to be fastening with 5-6 fungi. 4 are hammered in the corners, retreating 5-10 cm from the edge, and 1-2 - in the center. Sometimes an option is used where the dowel is driven at the junction of two slabs. So the cap of one umbrella holds 3 plates at the same time. Additionally, 1 fastener is hammered into the center of each slab.
Sometimes, to save money, the insulation board is fixed with only 1 dowel. This option is only possible for foam plastic if there is no cladding. This method is not suitable for mineral wool, since it tends to gain moisture and, accordingly, increase its weight. It is also worth considering the height of the insulation mounting. If the foam is located at a height of more than 8 m, it is necessary to fix it with 7 dowels per 1 m². When the height exceeds 20 m, 9 fasteners are used for penoplex. This amount is due to the increased wind load on the building and the pressure of the upper rows of thermal insulation on the lower ones.
Typically, to fix insulation that is laid on a blank wall, there are 5-6 dowels per 1 m² in increments of 50 cm. Additional fasteners are installed along the perimeter of the openings at expansion joints, at the parapet, and in the corners of the building. The pitch in this case is 300 mm.
How to firmly attach insulation to any wall
There are 3 main methods for attaching to the walls of a building.
I – sheathing. They create a frame base for ventilated cladding. To do this, choose galvanized metal profiles that are resistant to corrosion and temperature changes.
II – glue. Bonding thermal insulation material has subtleties. First, you need to choose a suitable composition that meets all the requirements. The second is moisture resistance. Further, insulation is rarely simply “set” on glue. Additionally, umbrella dowels are used.
There are 2 types of glue:
- dry mixture;
- glue-foam.
The first type is released in bags. It is diluted according to the instructions on the package. Adhesive foam is produced in cylinders. It does not need to be diluted with water or stirred. Application is carried out using a construction gun.
To fix the thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. The surface must be cleaned of dust and leveled by applying a layer of plaster.
III – use of dowels. This is the main method for firmly fixing thermal insulation. Dowels are used for both additional and primary fixation.
Each method has its own nuances and features. Before choosing a fixation method, you need to assess the wall surface, as well as compare the factors affecting the materials (temperature, humidity, frost resistance).
Mineral or stone wool
To lay mineral wool, create a sheathing of wooden beams.
The distance between the slats should be less than the size of the wool. In this case, the cotton wool will adhere to the base and hold on.
If the thermal insulation is purchased in slabs (it is stiffer), then the slats are filled in a cellular manner.
The wool in the slabs can be glued or dowels can be used. But, the lathing is mandatory. When using roll insulation, the slats are filled horizontally or vertically.
For lathing, slats are used in height greater than the thickness of the wool. This creates an air gap between the insulation and the finishing coating. This will increase the thermal insulation of the wall.
Penoplex
Penoplex is often used for insulating private houses and apartments at height. To fix it, glue and dowels are used.
To glue polystyrene foam, a flat surface coated with a primer is required. A support strip is stuffed at the bottom, and glue is applied to the foam sheets. After applying the sheet, you need to hold the material for a while so that the adhesive composition sets.
After the glue has set, holes are made in the sheet for dowels. They will create strength.
Polyurethane foam
This is a porous gas-filled polymer based on polyurethane components.
It has a number of distinctive properties, low thermal conductivity. Therefore, it began to be often used in cold regions. Water and sudden changes in temperature do not affect it. Polyurethane foam is produced as foam. Apply to the surface in 2 ways:
- spraying using equipment;
- pouring - special equipment is used for this and voids must be equipped.
Fastening requirements
Insulation anchors are subject to high stress, function in alkaline environments and are exposed to extreme temperatures. This means they must meet several criteria.
Be resistant to destruction. Both the umbrella itself and the nail must be of very high strength. The nail must be made of galvanized steel so that its material does not react and begin to deteriorate
This is especially important when the material under the “wet facade” is attached with fungus. With this approach, the fungus is covered with a layer of plaster and becomes “immured” in alkali. When passing through thermal insulation, the fungus can become a “cold bridge.” This will not happen if the material from which the fastener is made has low thermal conductivity
A thermal conductivity index higher than 0.004 W/K is considered unacceptable. Ensure high adhesion. In the case of ventilated facades, fungus often serves as the only retaining factor for thermal insulation. “Wet” ones also contain foam adhesive, but the load is much higher. The fungus must provide sufficient adhesion to the surface of the insulation and the main material of the wall. In addition, if foam or fiberglass insulation is reinforced with an adhesive layer on top, the cap must become one with this wet compound, providing a layer of insulation.
This will not happen if the material from which the fastener is made has low thermal conductivity. A thermal conductivity index higher than 0.004 W/K is considered unacceptable. Ensure high adhesion. In the case of ventilated facades, fungus often serves as the only retaining factor for thermal insulation. “Wet” ones also contain foam adhesive, but the load is much higher. The fungus must provide sufficient adhesion to the surface of the insulation and the main material of the wall. In addition, if foam or fiberglass insulation is reinforced with an adhesive layer on top, the cap must become one with this wet compound, providing a layer of insulation.
We have set the basic requirements for fasteners for insulation; now it is important to see how the modern market satisfies these requirements. To put it simply, there are two main types of umbrellas. To put it simply, there are two main types of umbrellas
To put it simply, there are two main types of umbrellas.
Made from galvanized steel
The nail of such umbrellas in most cases is made of galvanized steel (sometimes polyamide). And although this material resists corrosion more than other metal ones, it is still not completely protected from it. There is a second drawback. Metal conducts heat well, which means that cold bridges can form at the attachment point and condensation can accumulate. Over time, cracks may appear at the attachment points. This type of fasteners has a higher cost.
- Dowel material: impact-resistant polypropylene.
- Anchor material: low carbon, galvanized steel;
- Temperature range: -55 - +60 degrees;
- Load: up to 750 kg per square meter.
As a conclusion: such fungi are used in the case of attaching heavy insulation, when the use of plastic is impossible.
Dowel for thermal insulation with a plastic nail. They are used more often than metal ones, but they are less expensive and less durable. Although even their performance is quite impressive. The temperature ranges from -40 to + 80 degrees. Such umbrellas are also able to withstand loads from 20 to 380 kg per square meter. Nylon nails are also classified as plastic.
Thermal insulation dowels with thermal head are umbrellas with metal nails. A polymer head is placed on the end of the anchor. This approach is used for different types of walls, but is especially necessary for wooden ones. The purpose of the head is to reduce thermal conductivity. Such elements have a higher cost (the highest among dowels), but also the lowest thermal conductivity and strength.
In addition, fungi are distinguished by length. This is an important indicator that needs to be calculated correctly. The diameter of the rod for the anchor is also distinguished. Most often, rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm are used.
Types of dowels
Disc-shaped dowels differ in size and diameter of the cap. The main classification affects the material of manufacture. According to this criterion, they distinguish:
- Polymers are characterized by low strength. Therefore, the cost is low. This option is suitable for concrete and brick. Such dowels are unable to withstand increased loads.
- Metal dowels are more durable, but have high thermal conductivity, which negatively affects the result of insulation. This leads to the formation of cold bridges. The susceptibility of metal to corrosion causes yellow spots to appear. To avoid this phenomenon, you will need to treat the rods with an anti-corrosion compound.
- Metal ones with a thermal head are designed as an alternative to metal dowels. Coating the cap with metal with a low thermal conductivity coefficient eliminates the appearance of cold bridges. This feature affected the price of the products. The cost of metal dowels with a thermal head is high.
Disc-shaped dowels are selected taking into account the characteristics of the insulated surface, which will allow you to get the maximum benefit from thermal insulation and extend the service life of the insulation.
Liquid Nails
When insulating surfaces of a small area, it is advisable to use liquid nails. You will need a glue gun for application. The composition is applied to the foam board around the perimeter, as well as in the center. Fixation is almost instantaneous, just press the sheet firmly to the surface. To use this type of fixation, you will need to perfectly level the walls and also prime them. When thermally insulating surfaces of a large area, using liquid nails is irrational from a financial point of view, since the cost of the material is high.
Self-tapping screws
The easiest way to attach penoplex is with self-tapping screws. This installation method is only suitable when working with wooden bases or when insulating with lathing.
The use of self-tapping screws leads to the appearance of cold bridges and deterioration of thermal insulation performance, since the fastener heads are small and it is necessary to use about 8 pieces to fasten each plate.
Polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is used as an additional fastening for thermal insulation using dowels or self-tapping screws. They help seal the joints of the insulation and improve adhesion to the base. The foam is applied to the slab in the same way as liquid nails: along the perimeter and in the center.
Purpose and advantages of disc fastening
Dowels of a special shape, which are used to install thermal insulation, are called mushrooms or umbrellas in construction. They provide a secure fit even to fragile materials.
With their help, the heat insulator can be attached to various materials:
- concrete;
- stone;
- brick.
Advantages of disc mounting:
- Thanks to the wide cap of the mushroom, a reliable fit to any building insulation is ensured.
- The umbrella, thanks to its long leg, can withstand significant loads. In the center there is a special hole in the cap into which a dowel is inserted.
- On the inside, the surface of the cap is rough for greater adhesion to the insulation.
- Dowels have anti-corrosion properties.
- The plastic from which the dowel is made is inexpensive and reliable.
- The fungal umbrella is a bendable element. It cannot damage the sealing product.
- For reliability, the dowel inside the structure expands in all directions, which leads to strengthening of the fastener structure.
Outside or inside: what determines the method of attaching mineral wool?
Insulation can be done both from the inside of the premises and from the outside; accordingly, the requirements for the reliability of fixation are different. If gluing with special adhesive mixtures is enough inside, then additional fasteners are required for the facade.
The basic rule for how to properly attach thermal insulation is to tightly fit the edges of the plates to each other, which should completely cover the surface to be insulated. Let's consider methods for installing basalt insulation depending on the location of the system.
Insulation from the inside | External insulation |
Installation of mini-slabs in a frame using vapor barrier | Plaster facade: gluing slabs with special glue and doweling |
Ventilated facade: doweling using vapor barrier and waterproofing membrane |
Learn more about fixation methods
The choice of method for attaching insulation to the wall is determined by temperature indicators, relative humidity, the nature of the materials and bases, and mechanical load. Manufacturers offer various fasteners and mixtures of a universal and specialized nature.
Fasteners for thermal insulation Source derevozashita.com.ua
Lathing
The frame method allows you to solve several problems at once. In relation to thermal insulation, this is the fixation of materials and adjustment of their position. In terms of finishing work, there are more advantages:
● no leveling of the base is required;
● applies to load-bearing structures of partitions with sheet cladding;
● a supporting structure is created for finishing materials of various types, including decorative ones.
Since the created “pie” will not be disassembled for a long time, the rough base must be cleaned of weak elements (finishing, leveling agent, concrete, wood). Destruction and preventive treatment of the surface with antiseptic agents are also carried out. If necessary, perform similar actions with rust.
If a wooden beam is used for the frame, then it is important to pre-treat it with compounds containing anti-fungal and antifungal additives. Installation is carried out only from dry planks. The metal profile must be coated with anti-corrosion protection. As a rule, this is a galvanized coating.
Rack metal profile Source avito.st
Fastening penoplex to concrete
Applying glue to thermal insulation material. The choice of method depends on the installation conditions and surface quality
There are the following methods of attaching penoplex to concrete:
- using fasteners with dowels;
- using dry adhesive mixtures;
- polyurethane foam;
- liquid nails.
When installing penoplex to a concrete structure, it is worth considering:
- To properly prepare the dry adhesive mixture, you must strictly follow the instructions and maintain all proportions.
- At low air temperatures, the properties of the adhesive are significantly reduced.
- The prepared mixture is applied to the heat insulation slab over the entire area.
- Polyurethane foam is applied around the perimeter of the slab and is rarely filled with a mesh or zigzag.
- The use of liquid nails provides high-quality adhesion, but this installation method is quite expensive.
- To perform the work efficiently, it is necessary to use a level.
- The plates must fit snugly against each other.
- The seams are sealed with sealant.
Video description
Video of how penofol is attached to the walls:
Sotoplast
The insulation is based on fiber filler. This may be a carbon, cellulose, organic or glass component. They are used to make woven fabric with thermoactive resins as a binder (epoxy, phenolic). The outside of the material is covered with film.
The structure of the thermal insulation is cellular (the shape is close to hexagonal). It is sold in the form of sheets of laminated plastic. The characteristics depend on the raw materials used, the amount of binder resin, and the size of the cells.
Ecowool
Paper production waste is used to produce insulation. These are waste paper, scraps and discarded corrugated cardboard, books, magazines, newspapers. The quality of the resulting material depends on the raw materials used. For example, recycled materials produce heterogeneous, low-grade thermal insulation. It goes on sale in crumbly form. Over time, the protective coating shrinks.
Characteristic | Meaning |
Coefficient of thermal conductivity | 0.035-0.041 W/m*K |
Water absorption | 9-15% per day |
Sound absorption | Up to 9 dB with a 1.5 cm layer |
Ecowool insulation Source tproekt.com
Insulation of the building facade
Insulation of walls with penoplex
The main part of heat loss occurs through external walls. Before you begin insulating the facade, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, which includes:
- cleaning the wall surface from dust and other contaminants;
- leveling with plaster;
- for better adhesion, notches should be applied to a smooth surface using an ax;
- in addition, it is necessary to apply a layer of primer, for this a concrete contact primer would be a good choice.
Maybe,
Other methods of thermal insulation
In addition to ready-made slab, roll or crumble options, there are heat-insulating paint and plaster. The second is applied with a reinforcing mesh to increase strength. Here, the search for a solution to how to attach insulation to a wooden or other wall lies in the correct preparation of the working base. The algorithm of actions is similar to what is performed before gluing rigid boards.
Warm plaster Source remont.bid
Foundation insulation
Insulation of the foundation. It can be performed both in a building under construction and in an already constructed one.
Despite the fact that the foundation is the underground part of the building and is closed from cold air, the soil can freeze quite deeply. In addition, the cold rises to the wall (cold bridges).
This type of work consists of three stages:
- Insulation of the foundation (vertical and horizontal).
- Base insulation (vertical).
- Insulation of the blind area (horizontal).
This is important: for maximum efficiency of the process of insulating the foundation of a building, none of the above stages should be neglected.
The process of insulating the foundation with penoplex slabs is as follows:
- Before installing Penoplex slabs, it is necessary to apply a waterproofing layer.
- Using an adhesive mixture, which is applied to the surface with a notched trowel, thermal insulation boards are mounted. The device is performed starting from the bottom row.
- If necessary, a second layer of heat insulation is installed using the same glue.
- Insulation is carried out up to and including the base.
- The soil is being backfilled.
- To avoid soil freezing, it is necessary to provide horizontal thermal insulation under the blind area along the entire perimeter of the building.
- A fiberglass mesh is laid on the base part and the finishing of the structure is carried out.
Scheme of foundation insulation with penoplex
Expanded clay
The main component of expanded clay is clay. This insulation is made from it. Externally, it looks like balls; it can easily be used to insulate the ceiling. It is poured onto the floor of the attic and is therefore used only for thermal insulation of a private house.
To properly lay expanded clay, you must adhere to the following rules:
- The work begins with the installation of waterproofing material, the choice of which is huge.
- It is necessary to cover the rafters and chimney pipe with film in advance.
- To obtain a better vapor barrier effect, a layer of clay is laid on the waterproofing.
- Expanded clay is laid out in layers equal to at least 15 centimeters and as a result, thermal insulation is significantly increased.
This bulk insulation has the following advantages:
- The material is not subject to decomposition over time.
- Expanded clay eliminates the possibility that small rodents and various insects will grow in it.
- It is fireproof and fire resistant.
- It has good sound insulation.
- It is waterproof and frost-resistant, which is extremely important for the cold season.
- Has a high degree of heat transfer.
- Affordable cost due to the use of inexpensive raw materials.
- Expanded clay is used not only to insulate the ceiling, but also the walls and foundation.
Floor insulation
Floor in the bathhouse. Insulation is carried out on a flat surface
Penoplex is excellent for insulating floors in a wooden house. Due to the fact that it almost does not absorb moisture, it can be used effectively in a bathhouse. This can be done even without a screed. If installed in a steam room, it is necessary to ensure that the thermal insulation is not adjacent to the stove or other heating elements.
Sheathing a balcony from the inside, especially if it is on the upper floors, is easier to do by gluing Penoplex slabs to its inside. Next, you can hide the slabs using lining, plastic or MDF. Penoplex is an excellent thermal insulation material. Due to its lightness, it is convenient to install on any structure, especially since there are many installation methods. To the question: is Penoplex harmful to health, you can safely give a negative answer.
Attaching the vapor barrier film
Before you begin attaching the sheathing, you need to make a vapor barrier. Moreover, it is done in two layers:
- the first layer protects the insulation from moisture from the outside;
- the second layer protects the insulation from moisture from the inside.
Insulation installation diagram - option 2.
Why is this issue receiving so much attention? It's simple. The fact is that when foam plastic or mineral wool gets wet, its effectiveness decreases significantly, and during frosts such material not only does not protect against the cold, but itself becomes a bridge of cold
The film is attached to the wall using a stapler on the staples. Each sheet of vapor barrier is laid overlapping with the previous one. All joints can be sealed with regular tape.
If the vapor barrier has two different sides, that is, glossy and rough (one is capable of transmitting moisture, and the other is not), then the rough side of such a film is laid inside the room.
Installation of plaster
Special “warm” plaster mixtures can also be used as insulation. It must be said that this material has no thermal insulation advantages over other insulation materials. But still, insulation with plaster has its place.
To increase the thermal insulation properties of a wall using plaster, it must be applied to the surface in three layers. To do this, the wall must be cleaned of old cladding, if any, and all damage such as cracks and chips must be repaired. Set the plane level using beacons, a plumb line and a horizontal level.
When you can and cannot insulate from the inside
All the problems that internal wall insulation can create are largely far-fetched and often exaggerated by supporters of external thermal insulation. The most common statement is that a dew point appears in the wall, which, after insulating the wall from the inside, moves to its inner surface, as a result of which condensation appears at the insulation/wall interface, followed by various fungi. Since the process is hidden from view by a heat-insulating layer, the problem is detected already at an advanced stage.
This is not entirely true. In fact, the dew point in the thickness of the wall is constantly moving, because the temperature outside and inside changes even during the day. Therefore, specialists in building thermal physics operate with such a concept as a zone of possible condensation, and not just one point. Within this zone, moisture necessarily condenses, regardless of the insulation method, the only question is its quantity.
If there is no significant supply of vapor from the outside, then moisture falls only from the air inside the wall, and this is a tiny amount. And since condensation is accompanied by the release of heat, this moisture can evaporate quite quickly. When a large amount of steam penetrates the walls from the street or from rooms, dampness can form, which often affects cold concrete walls.
To counter the negative judgments, we will give a couple of typical examples from practice. The first is the insulation of the pitched roof of a private house, because it is done only from the inside. If the thermal insulation “pie” is made correctly, then all the resulting moisture is safely removed from the insulation. The same applies to a frame house, where mineral wool, which is part of the outer wall, acts as thermal insulation.
The reasons why homeowners are forced to insulate the house from the inside are quite compelling:
- It is technically very difficult to cover a wall with insulation from the outside, and it is generally impossible to do it yourself. This includes the facades of houses in the city center and apartments of high-rise buildings;
- some enclosing structures border technical premises, for example, an elevator shaft;
- Since insulation from the inside is significantly cheaper than the outside, this is also an important argument for many. People do not always have the financial means, but want to save on heating.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=So-cGqJM_uo
Protective covering
Scheme for attaching penoplex to a brick or concrete wall
In order for the surface of the insulation to look beautiful and be durable, it must be protected. The simplest and cheapest way to protect insulation is plastering, which is carried out in stages.
- Selection of plaster mortar.
- Selection of reinforcing mesh for plaster mortar.
- Fastening the reinforcing mesh using a certain technology.
- Laying the mortar, leveling the surface, grouting with a plastic float.
- Primer the surface for the finishing coat.
- Finish plaster. After drying, painting is done or a transparent protective layer is applied.
Video instruction:
In general, attaching penoplex to concrete and brick walls, as well as insulating the foundation of a building, is not difficult. It is enough to follow the installation technology and carry out the work carefully to ensure that the insulation is attractive and durable.
Gluing
This technique involves careful preparation of the rough foundation. Loose elements are removed, oily stains are degreased, areas infected with fungi or rust are “cured” and protected with preventative agents. Next, the entire surface is impregnated with primer and dried. The next step is leveling and two-layer priming with a composition with antiseptic additives.
Bonding insulation Source n-dom.ru
To glue slab insulation, you can use ready-made sealants and pastes or dry mixtures. The latter must be mixed with water until smooth before use. Manufacturers indicate the recipe on the packaging.
Let's look at how to attach insulation to a leveled brick wall. The adhesive composition is applied to the slab or base. It is important to observe the recommended thickness of a uniform layer. To prevent the appearance of excess at the ends of the insulator, an indentation of 1-2.5 cm is created around the perimeter. After the composition has dried (after 2-3 days), the “fungi” can be hammered in and finishing can be carried out.
Step-by-step insulation of a wooden house with your own hands
The technology for laying heat insulation on the walls of a wooden house lies in the correct sequence.
Tools for work
- hammer
- hacksaw;
- bench knife;
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- jigsaw;
- Bulgarian;
- brushes
Wood preparation
Preparation work includes cleaning the wood surface and treating it with specific solutions with antiseptic properties. This is necessary in order to prevent the possible occurrence of fungal infections on lumber. This composition should only be applied to a dry and clean surface. All subsequent work can be carried out only after the antiseptic has completely dried.
Tip: You can save on the purchase of special products for wood processing by using pre-purified used machine oil. Its cost is relatively low.
Frame structure
The assembly of the frame involves the installation of wooden beams, the height of which will be in accordance with the thickness of the insulator slabs. They are mounted so as to form a sheathing.
- First, attach the vertical bars. The installation of the first beam occurs at the edge from the section of the wall that protrudes forward. After this, the bar is set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the horizon using a level. A holder (wood inserts) of appropriate thickness is installed in the gaps between the wall and the beam.
- The end beam is installed in the same way. I pull cords between the outer beams, according to which the other intermediate beams are then placed.
- The distance between the beams corresponds to 60 cm, but it is possible to use a different distance, the main thing is to focus on the width of the insulation boards. After this, horizontal beams running across are fixed. The gap between them should correspond to the length of the insulation boards.
Installation of insulation
The slabs are installed in the resulting sheathing. Installation is carried out with the expectation that the insulator fragment should fit tightly into the cell space. If the calculations turn out to be slightly incorrect, one of the edges of the slab can be cut to the desired size.
The insulation is attached to a wooden wall with a fungus using special long-length screws. One piece of mineral wool slab measuring 1200*600mm requires 8 fungi, 6 of them are attached around the perimeter and 2 in the central part.
The mount for the thermal insulator to a wooden wall must be screwed in, avoiding gaps, otherwise the slab may subsequently bulge forward.
Wind and water protection
Wind protection and vapor barrier film are laid on top of the equipped frame. It is convenient to secure the film using a stapler.
The strips must be placed strictly vertically with an overlap of 10 cm at the edges. The film should be stretched tightly and not move away from the frame.
Decorative finishing
After installation of the insulation is completed, the ventilated façade is attached. It can be made either on the basis of siding or using a block house or economical plastic lining.
Thermal insulation of the house outside
Most experts in the construction industry argue that it is necessary to insulate a house exclusively from the outside. For these purposes, mineral wool is used in the form of slabs or mats with a density of more than 80 kg/m³. The thickness of the insulation should be from 10 cm, this is quite enough to save heat during severe frosts.
Using this technology you can achieve:
- improving the heat accumulation of walls;
- increasing the service life of the building;
- no loss of room area;
- simplifying finishing work.
The work process for insulating a home is carried out in the following order:
- the surface is prepared;
- the frame is installed;
- the insulation is fixed;
- a windproofing device is installed;
- a second sheathing is installed;
- cladding is being carried out.
Preparatory work
Before installation, it is necessary to apply a vapor barrier film so that its rough side faces the wall. This will ensure waterproofing and air exchange. The film should be laid overlapping. Staplers are used for fastening.
Installation of heat insulator
When performing the next step, it is necessary to mount the metal sheathing. To do this, the metal profiles must be installed vertically and secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. The distance between the profiles depends on the width of the material itself. The laying for mineral wool is carried out end-to-end using special stops. Dowels can be used to further strengthen the mats.
To create a double layer of insulation, you need to make a horizontal sheathing on top of the vertical one
It is very important to lay the material in such a way that the seams do not overlap each other.
Wind protection and finishing
A special membrane is mounted on the installed mineral wool using dowels, which is an effective way to protect against wind
When installing it, it is important to prevent the seams from coming apart; they must be glued together with tape. As a result, we have a complete structure, which is fixed on metal profiles
On top of it, for a more reliable fixation, it is necessary to install a horizontal profile that will press the heat insulator and at the same time serve as a frame for fastening the siding.
Remember that it is necessary to carry out external work as accurately as possible, since improper installation can lead to water getting on the mineral wool, and this, in turn, leads to damage to the material, subsequent replacement of insulation and other unwanted costs.
Practical tips
In this short section we have collected useful, practical tips that will help when installing thermal insulation.
- If you use polystyrene foam, moisten it with water before applying the foam adhesive. This will improve the adhesion (adhesion) of the foam and the sheet.
- When insulating walls outside, there may be a blockage - a protrusion at the bottom of the wall of the house. In this case, the base profile does not need to be installed. Simply cover the pile with waterproofing to prevent moisture from getting into the insulator.
- Insulation sheets should always be fastened in a checkerboard pattern. This is necessary for inconsistency of seams. This fastening allows you to avoid cold bridges.
- Do not leave fixed material on the wall unprotected. Putty foam or hard stone wool or cover soft slabs with a windproof layer immediately. If moisture gets into the thermal insulation during the installation stage, the material will do its job very poorly.
We looked at the general principles of how to attach mineral wool or other thermal insulation. As you can see, attaching insulation to the wall is a non-trivial task, but it requires some skills.
Perhaps you still have questions, then you are welcome to ask them in the comments.
And one more trick:
Which fasteners are best to choose for attaching thermal insulation?
Today, the market offers a wide range of different types of fasteners made in Europe, Taiwan and Korea. However, a more detailed inspection very often reveals the fact that most of the fasteners from Europe are actually made in China.
Much has been said about the quality of Chinese goods, as well as a lot of good, but no one will argue that for the most part Chinese goods are the result of the desire to produce huge quantities at the expense of quality. Just like Chinese fasteners, fasteners produced in Asian countries cannot guarantee reliable operation under the loads placed on them.
As a rule, the purchase of questionable fasteners and installation of thermal insulation ends in cracks on the facade, and in the worst case scenario, the collapse of the entire structure. Such consequences can only be avoided if the purchase of fasteners is made from a dealer, for whom it is not a problem to show the buyer a quality certificate and technical documentation for their product.
Tips and recommendations for installing insulation.
Before using and applying the adhesive composition to the surface of the foam, it must be moistened with water, which ensures reliable adhesion of the glue and the material.
The insulator must be fastened in a checkerboard pattern. This will allow you to avoid cold bridges and achieve high-quality results.
- If thermal insulation material is attached to external walls, then it should not be left exposed to the air.
- The process of installing a heat insulator should be approached responsibly, and you should also carefully study all the quality characteristics of the material and how to work with it correctly.
- The insulation must be laid from bottom to top. This is necessary for smooth installation of the product.
- Before insulating a house made of natural wood, it must be impregnated with special solutions that will protect it from rotting processes.
- If the work is carried out correctly, some defects and unevenness of the existing walls can be hidden under the insulation.
- When attaching mineral wool from the inside, it is necessary to select an adhesive composition without harmful secretions.
If you adhere to all technologies and rules, you can carry out high-quality installation of thermal insulation material yourself, without the involvement of qualified craftsmen. The result of this will be a warm microclimate in the house in winter, and coolness in summer. Insulation with good materials with correct installation will allow the building to be used for at least 10 years without repair work.
What does the result depend on?
In order for the house to be quiet and warm, insulation must be carried out not only outside, but also inside.
Many types of insulation have the characteristics of a soundproofing material. If it is not possible to carry out insulation from the outside, then the optimal material is chosen for the internal cladding - mineral wool, foil insulation. For external walls - penoplex, foamed polyurethane foam (polyurethane foam).
Useful tips from the experts:
- Before applying foam adhesive to a slab of penoplex or polystyrene foam, the surface must be moistened with water. This will create good adhesion between the glue and the board.
- If there is a blockage at the bottom of the wall, then the control strip does not need to be attached. In this place, carry out waterproofing and begin installing insulation.
- If the slabs of material are fastened in a checkerboard pattern, then the seams will not match, and therefore there will be no cold bridges.
- Thermal insulation material must not be left outdoors after installation. It is necessary to cover it with putty or cover it with a windbreak.
If the recommendations are followed, the fixed insulation will serve for a long time.
The insulation process must be approached responsibly. To select the correct material, you need to study its characteristics, features and weak points. And also choose the right method of fastening to the surface. The result of the work done depends on this. Some thermal insulation materials are fixed only under ventilation siding, while others can be covered with 3 layers of plaster on top.
Conclusion
If this work is carried out outside the room, then it is better to do everything in the warm season, and inside the installation of insulation can be done at any time.
Video “Applying foam adhesive to polystyrene foam”
Video on how to properly apply glue to a foam board. This is the same foam glue that I talked about at the beginning of the article.
Sources
- https://pro-uteplenie.ru/montazh/459-kak-krepit-uteplitel-k-stene
- https://24dub.ru/krepit-uteplitel-stene-tekhnonikol/
- https://1pofasady.ru/uteplenie/kak-krepit-penopleks
- https://stenamaster.ru/sposoby-krepleniya-uteplitelya-1400.html
- https://otdelkasten.com/uteplenie/kreplenie-uteplitelja-k-stene
- https://uteplix.com/obyekty/steny/3-sposoba-kak-mozhno-krepit-k-stene-uteplitel.html
- https://1pofasadu.ru/uteplenie/kak-krepit-uteplitel-k-stene.html
- https://anatomia-remonta.ru/materialy/beton/kak-i-chem-kleit-penopleks-k-betonu.html
- https://DekorMyHome.ru/remont-i-oformlenie/sposoby-krepleniia-yteplitelia-k-stene.html
- https://balkon4life.ru/uteplenie/materialy/kak-krepit-penopleks-k-stene/.html
- https://ProUteplenie.com/steny/kak-krepit-uteplitel-k-derevyannoy-stene
- https://www.tproekt.com/kreplenie-teploizolyatsii/
- https://dom-s-ymom.org/stroitelstvo/konstruktivnye-resheniya/steny/betonnaya/kreplenie-penopleksa-instruktsiya-po-utepleniyu.html
How to properly insulate a frame house
A frame house initially consists of insulation, as it is required by construction technology. However, this is not enough for year-round use, so its quantity is increased, and this is done before covering the facade with finishing material. First of all, work is carried out from the outside, then from the inside. The choice of insulation depends on the type of frame construction, the type and thickness of the material already used. It is mainly made from 2 varieties, the most popular and modern: mineral wool and polystyrene foam.
Choosing insulation for a frame house
- glass wool
- basalt (stone wool)
Foam materials are divided into:
- sheet foam
- penoizol (liquid)
- extruded polystyrene foam
Insulation of a frame-frame house
Comparative characteristics of these materials lead to the conclusion that it is better to choose basalt wool or e/expanded polystyrene. If mineral wool was placed inside the frame, then additional insulation is made with the same material. Most often, the layer already laid in the frame is 15 cm (10 cm + 5 cm). Then an additional layer of 5 cm thickness is placed on the outside of the facade.
However, these are only approximate numbers for the example in this article. The exact data for a specific house is calculated by specialists and indicated in the project. It should be taken into account that an incorrectly chosen thickness leads to a shift in the dew point inside the wall and the opposite effect: the rooms will be damp and cold. Mineral wool is produced in the form of mats and rolls. To insulate a frame house, it is better to take mats. They do not sag and have good rigidity.
Panel frame house
If the house was assembled from SIP panels with an expanded polystyrene layer, then similar material is laid on the outside of the facade
It is important to know that the internal walls (on the side of the rooms) are not sheathed with foam insulation. It does not breathe, does not conduct steam, and causes mold to appear indoors
The additional outer layer of e/expanded polystyrene is on average 5 cm. If polystyrene foam is used, take sheets with a thickness of 7.5 cm. These figures are not mandatory, they should be specified for a specific structure. You can also take mineral wool, but its thickness should take into account the characteristics of the foam contained in the SIP panels.
Mandatory rules for insulating a frame house:
- The work is carried out using curtain façade technology, which means that there must be a gap between the wall and the wool or polystyrene foam for air circulation.
- The frame, in which the internal insulation is placed according to the construction technology, is covered with a lathing made of 50 mm timber. It creates the necessary gap.
- Installation of mats or sheets is carried out with overlapping seams of the lower insulation, that is, overlapping.
A windproof membrane is stretched over the additional insulation, which is secured to the sheathing with a construction stapler. The membrane is covered with lathing for exterior finishing. On the side of the internal walls, a vapor barrier is first laid, then the walls are covered with wood boards or wooden lining.
- Insulation for internal wall insulation Karaganda
- House made of timber construction technology
- Interior decoration of timber houses
- How to insulate a house made of timber
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What is a fastening fungus
The product consists of a two-element hollow leg (sleeve) and a wide flat cap, and in its appearance resembles a mushroom, hence the name of this fastener - mushroom, umbrella. Thanks to the wide umbrella, the heat-insulating material is securely fixed to the vertical or horizontal plane of the building structure.
The fastening fungus consists of a cap, a stem and a core
The leg has a hollow core into which a special dowel is inserted. The bottom of the leg is equipped with spacer protrusions of the “ruff” type, which are located on the sides of the vertically cut leg. Thanks to this design feature of the product, it can expand in the body of the structure, reliably engaging with pointed protrusions on the structural fibers of the base material. The dowel is inserted into the leg through a hole in the cap and screwed into the supporting structure. The function of the umbrella-hat is to prevent the fastening element from passing through the loose insulation material, while simultaneously distributing the load along its plane.
There are several designs of this fastening element, but all of them are designed to perform one single function - to hold the loose insulation material in a given position. As a rule, the cap is made of polypropylene, the core is made of galvanized steel. There are fasteners for super-soft insulation, where umbrellas are made of nylon, called rondoles.
There are also expansion washers that increase the contact area of the product and the heat-insulating material, thereby keeping its structure unchanged.
Expansion washers increase the contact area between the fungus and the insulation
Products with an umbrella-shaped plastic cap are ideal for attaching polystyrene foam, various types of mineral wool, foil-coated polystyrene foam, penoplex, glass and slag wool.
Manufactured using modern technologies, such fasteners have fairly high technical performance.
Functionality of fasteners
A fungus for attaching insulation is often used in unfavorable environmental conditions. Therefore, both the plastic elements and the metal core must have special technical properties:
- mechanical strength;
- resistance to ultraviolet radiation and aggressive environments;
- withstand loads from the mass of the insulation, depending on its type and type of finishing;
- low degree of thermal conductivity;
- tolerate sudden changes in temperature;
- have high adhesion to the base surface material.
The strength of the dowel and the fungus itself must be such that when screwed or hammered into a hole in a wall, ceiling, or roof during their insulation, these elements do not collapse.
UV resistance is necessary when walls lined with insulation, secured with umbrella dowels, remain exposed to the sun for a long time. The products must also be well preserved in the plaster layer when facades are insulated using the wet method, that is, they must withstand an alkaline environment and not rust. Therefore, the core is made of galvanized steel.
The loads from the weight of the insulation, although not as large as from other types of building materials, are still sufficient if, for example, we take into account the area of the insulated facade with subsequent plastering. If fastening is done with fungi, the latter must withstand not only the weight of the insulation, but also the cement mortar.
Insulation of the wall followed by plastering
The low thermal conductivity of the material from which the mushroom dowel is made prevents the formation of a cold bridge at the point of its passage through the thermal insulation layer. The product should not be destroyed under the influence of positive and negative temperatures, which sometimes happens with low-quality plastics that can be used to make the fastener head. Fungi must have good adhesion to the material of walls, ceilings, and the insulation itself. After all, part of the core must be located in the body of the base structure, holding the thermal insulation suspended, and the mushroom cap, when gluing the reinforcing mesh over the insulation, is connected to it into a single whole.
On glue
As the only method of fastening exclusively with adhesive mass, it is rarely used and only under ventilated facades. For plastering work, additional reinforcement with umbrella dowels is required. However, this method has its own characteristics that need to be considered separately.
Firstly, there are two types of adhesives:
The dry mixture is sold in bags and requires dilution. Adhesive foam is sold in cans and does not require preliminary preparation. The latter is a little more expensive, but the convenience is worth it.
First you need to level the wall and smooth out all the unevenness as much as possible, possibly plastering the surface.
Sets the bottom bar, which will be the starting point of thermal insulation. The dry mixture is applied to the slab itself.
In the case of a dry mixture, you need to apply the glue to the slabs in several pieces and spread it evenly over the entire surface using a comb. After this, the insulation board is fixed to the wall. Typically, the installation of mineral wool or other materials begins from the corner and always from the bottom row.
Adhesive foam is applied around the perimeter of the slab and in several strips in the middle. After application, press the slabs flat. The foam hardens in 30 minutes to 2 hours. During this time, it is possible to slightly adjust the position of the slab using a level.
Dry mixtures are often used:
- EK THERMEX;
- Ceresit CT 190;
- Ceresit CT180.
Popular foam options:
- Ceresit CT 84;
- Soudabond EASY;
- Insta STIK.
The cost of one cylinder is from 200 to 500 rubles.
We discussed the basic principles of how to attach insulation to a wall using adhesive. You can decide what exactly to use by reading a couple of opinions.
When we decided to insulate the facade, the master said that he would glue it with foam. We were indignant, saying that the polyurethane foam expands, but he said that he would use adhesive foam. I asked which one to buy, good or simple. We said: “Good.” No regrets, 30 minutes after gluing the sheet cannot be torn off. We decided to conduct an experiment and stuck signs on it with the street name and number. Everything is holding up great.
For large differences in walls, it is recommended to use polyurethane foam, specifically for polystyrene foam. It is also called “liquid foam”. If the wall curvature is one to three centimeters, this is not a problem at all. I bought it at Epicenter a year ago, glued the sheet on just for fun - a year has passed, everything is holding together, the sheet cannot be torn off. The foam breaks, but holds up.
Is polystyrene foam good as insulation?
Scheme of thermal protection of various materials for insulation.
Due to its characteristics, polystyrene foam (polystyrene) has found very wide application in construction. It has low thermal conductivity, relatively good steam conductivity, and is also lightweight, which does not additionally load the building structure. In addition, it has the ability to withstand high mechanical loads while having low density.
Other positive qualities of polystyrene include its good interaction with other building materials, resistance to moisture, fairly low thermal conductivity (or high thermal resistance), low noise resistance, extraordinary ease of processing and relatively low price.
Today, many are arguing: will it be good if you insulate a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam?
They pay attention to its low vapor conductivity, which supposedly leads to moisture and rotting of wooden walls. Therefore, it is not recommended to insulate with polystyrene foam, and when choosing insulation, it is recommended, if possible, to replace polystyrene with other insulation materials
But the approximate indicators of vapor permeability of materials they give show that expanded polystyrene has approximately the same vapor permeability as pine wood.
Therefore, the use of polystyrene as insulation for buildings with high internal humidity (for example, baths) is not recommended. And if the humidity inside a wooden house is normal and controlled, then the use of polystyrene foam as insulation will fully justify itself.
Scheme of foundation insulation with polystyrene foam.
There is an opinion that it is better to use penoplex as polystyrene insulation. Let's consider this question. Penoplex is extruded polystyrene foam. That is, most of its characteristics are similar to those of foam plastic (heat and sound insulation, resistance to aggressive substances, specific gravity, ease of processing, etc.). It is characterized by greater density, increased mechanical resistance to loads, and the ability to self-extinguish upon fire.
The disadvantage of penoplex is its low vapor and air conductivity; moreover, it has a higher cost compared to polystyrene foam. The disadvantages of polystyrene over penoplex are eliminated by working to protect the foam from fire using fire-resistant facing materials and putties. In addition, the vaunted fire safety of penoplex approaches zero during a fire itself, since the burning of the insulation will be supported by the burning of the wood of the walls. Thus, the use of polystyrene foam for insulating a wooden house is more profitable than penoplex.
Calculation of insulation thickness
The main task of a heat insulator is to retain heat. To do this, you need to select a suitable material of the required thickness. The calculation algorithm is as follows.
Calculate the heat retention of the wall using the formula Rs=(1/a(b))+R1+ R2+R3+(1/a(h)), where
- Rs – wall thermal resistance;
- R1, R2, R3 – heat transfer resistance of each layer of the “pie”;
- a(b) – heat transfer coefficient of the wall inside;
- a(h) – heat transfer coefficient of the outer surface.
The minimum thermal resistance then . Formula: Rain=Q/U, where
- Rmin – the required indicator;
- Q – layer thickness in mm;
- U is the thermal conductivity of the material.
Compare the results obtained . If Rmin is less than or equal to Rs, then the facade does not need additional thermal insulation. If the difference is in favor of Rmin, you need to subtract it from the larger value and get the value of heat conservation that needs to be added. The thickness of the insulation is selected according to the indicator. The easiest way is to use ready-made tables for this.
Methods of applying insulation
When the preliminary treatment of the walls is completed, you can proceed to the main stage of insulation work.
Regardless of the method of fastening, there should be no gaps between sheets or rolls. Thin materials cannot be glued together, but precise fit is important. Sheet materials are laid from bottom to top so that they rest on the bottom layer, which is already supported on the wall or other base. When there is no suitable base or you plan to install a “warm floor” soon, it is recommended to install a base profile. This is an aluminum or tin plate with perforations attached to the bottom of the wall to prevent the insulation boards from slipping, as in the photo.
Most roll and foil varieties of insulating material are fixed in the same way as wallpaper, only special glue is needed.
The method for attaching the insulation is shown in the video.
Treatment of metal and wooden surfaces at an angle is often carried out by spraying polyurethane foam. The finished surface resembles a “snowball”, frozen foam or glued foam balls. This method is carried out using a special apparatus that supplies a two-component composition under pressure. Polyurethane foam is sprayed into a thin layer from a nozzle, after which the mixture expands and hardens.
Equipment for spraying PPU insulation is easy to rent. After practicing for 2-3 square meters, you can develop the skill and continue to work without errors.
A correctly chosen installation method guarantees reliable thermal insulation for many years. Some materials do not require fastening. For example, expanded clay is poured between the joists, and layers of stone wool are inserted spaced between the roof beams or frame boards. Further lining with plasterboard or covering with a counter-lattice will secure the standard packaged insulation.
There is also the so-called “warm” plaster, which has recently been used as an additional home improvement product. It is used when leveling walls, applying in 2-3 layers. However, as a masking of gross defects for external walls, it is not effective.
Sometimes it is impossible to do without rough alignment for beacons. When the starting layer has dried, warm plaster is applied. With it, the outer wall of the corner apartment is more comfortable to touch, and it freezes less.
Features of thermal insulation of wooden buildings
When carrying out work on thermal insulation of walls made of round timber or timber yourself, you will notice that these surfaces are not perfectly flat. This is a significant problem, since finishing work on such walls requires non-standard solutions. Existing deviations in the geometry of the walls make adjustments to the process of selecting and fastening thermal insulation materials.
Another difficulty that you will have to take into account and foresee even before you start finishing work is the instability of wooden walls. Natural materials, especially wood, can cause minor deformations associated both with the process of shrinkage of the house and with the operation of the finished building.
The use of low-density materials can only be fixed on internal surfaces that are located horizontally. As you understand, this does not apply to walls. A way out of a difficult situation can be the use of thermal insulation for facades, produced in the form of slabs.
During installation, these plates must be installed close to each other. The installed insulation requires additional protection in the form of a film or nailed penofol with foil, which provides wind and vapor protection. This approach will protect the space located between the insulation material and the surface of the tree itself.
Selection of materials for thermal insulation
Currently, there are two main types of thermal insulation materials on the building materials market that are suitable for outdoor work. This is polystyrene foam in sheets or polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
It was noted above that the use of high-density materials, such as polystyrene foam, for insulating log buildings is not recommended, since such thermal insulation cannot guarantee a good degree of adherence to a large area of the insulated wall.
Insulation of wooden surfaces using expanded polystyrene is fraught with an increased likelihood of developing the process of rotting and subsequent destruction of the wood. For this reason, you should opt for mineral wool slabs.
This group of insulation materials is widely represented by a range of products produced by foreign brands. The insulating material can be produced in the form of slabs. If its thickness is small, then the products are formed in the form of rolls.
For processing vertical surfaces such as walls, it is more convenient to use slabs. Their shape and density are more convenient to use; they do not slip or change their shape. One of the good options is the Techno Nicole brand, produced in Russia. Particularly interesting is the type of mineral wool for facades, which has dimensions of 1200*600*50 mm.
Calculation of the required amount of materials
The typical thickness of mineral wool is 50 mm. If during the cold season the temperature in the region of residence does not fall below -20°C, then laying in one layer will be sufficient. In case of more noticeable frosts, it will be necessary to install two layers of insulation with a total thickness of up to 10 cm.
To correctly calculate the amount of materials, you need to measure the area of the facade; for this, the height of the wall is multiplied by its length. Insulation is also sold with a calculation of the number of square meters; when purchasing, we focus on the obtained value. In the same way, the required amount of material for wind protection is calculated. Such materials are sold in the form of strips rolled into rolls. When purchasing them, remember that the strips will need to overlap each other by at least 10 cm.
To insulate a wall made of lumber, you will need to take mineral wool-based insulation with a density of 15 to 35 kg/m3. And:
- wooden blocks, 3 to 5 cm thick;
- adhesive tape for sealing joints of insulation boards;
- a membrane film that will protect the insulation from the harmful effects of the external environment;
- moisture-resistant composition for gluing protective membrane film;
- self-tapping screws of various lengths that will be used to attach the sheathing to the wall;
- decorative material for cladding the facade of a house (this can be siding and other types of materials) and all related materials for its installation (guides, screws, etc.).
Main types of insulation installation
To insulate a building, it is better to opt for external installation of mineral wool. Experts recommend this method as the most effective. One of the common methods is to install slabs with the creation of a ventilated gap. This method has been described below.
There are also other ways to insulate walls from the outside:
The wet method consists in the fact that after installing the mineral wool, a reinforcing mesh with plaster is applied to it. After this, the facade of the building is painted. More details about the wet insulation method can be found in the video. In the video you can more clearly see the correct installation of sheets, which will help you complete this process without outside help.
Installation of mineral wool according to the “Well” type is carried out using the following technology: the insulation is mounted between the double wall of the building. To do this, sheets of material are mounted to a brick wall, and then a cladding is made of concrete, brick or other materials. Thus, the insulation is contained in the gap between the double wall of the building.
How to install thermal insulation using mushroom dowels
Before you start laying the insulation, you need to calculate the required number of fasteners and their length, based on the thickness of the heat insulator and the insertion of the core by 5 cm into the material of the insulated structure.
Calculation of the length of dowels when attaching insulation to a brick wall
Calculation of the number and length of dowels
The number of fasteners is determined depending on the selected dowel arrangement.
Installing fungi at joints allows you to reduce the number of holes in the insulation
In the first option, it is assumed to use up to 6 products per square meter of insulation. In this case, 4 nails are attached to the corners of the sheet or mat, retreating from the edge by 5-7 cm, the rest are placed evenly in the center.
According to the second option, dowels are installed at the convergence point of several thermal insulation slabs. In this case, one umbrella holds the edges of four mineral wool mats or foam sheets at once. One fastening element is mounted in the center of the insulation. This option will be the most economical if the size of the umbrella allows.
More fasteners will have to be installed at the corners of buildings if the facade is insulated, and at heights, since there is a large wind load there.
It is recommended to use 7 dowels per 1 m2 of insulated area if the height of the building exceeds 8 meters, and 9 if the structure has a height of 20 meters or more. At the same time, it is necessary to increase the number of fungi in the corner areas of the facade.
Step-by-step insulation technology using fasteners in the form of fungi
Before you begin to attach the thermal insulation with fungi, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material, which, in addition to its direct function, can act as an additional fastening of mineral wool products or foam boards.
Installation of foil vapor barrier using fungi
The entire installation process consists of several simple operations:
- The surface is marked for drilling holes for the cores at a step distance of 0.8 m horizontally and 0.3 m vertically.
- After this, holes Ø 1 cm are made in the wall and insulation, the depth of which exceeds the length of the leg by 0.5 - 1 cm. The diameter of the drill must correspond to the thickness of the leg.
- The plastic sleeve is inserted manually, without using a hammer, into the hole made. Next, the core is inserted into the sleeve and driven into the base surface until it stops. The central part of the umbrella is closed with a special protective cover.
When using expansion washers, the latter are installed on the plastic sleeve before installing the core.
Installing the starting bar
Before laying the insulation, a starting strip is installed at the bottom of the wall, which will support the thermal insulation so that it does not slide down under its own weight.
If the insulation is installed with glue, the installation of fungi is carried out after the adhesive solution has completely dried. The joints between individual insulation elements are sealed with polyurethane foam or foil tape if penoplex, polystyrene foam and other similar materials are being installed.