How to plaster drywall before painting or wallpaper

In apartment buildings and some private buildings, concrete and brick walls do not have the correct geometry. The same can be said about floor slabs. Leveling surfaces is part of a major overhaul carried out by property owners of all forms of ownership. One way to quickly and inexpensively correct the curvature of structures is to plaster the drywall (hereinafter referred to as gypsum board) after installing it on the base. The material is practical, inexpensive, easy to install and has a long service life.

Features of drywall

Drywall (GKL) is a building material in the form of sheets, which consist of 2 layers of construction paper and a gypsum core. Such sheets are sheathed on various surfaces and all kinds of designs are created. Drywall is attached to the walls using self-tapping screws or by gluing with suitable adhesives.

Structure of plasterboard sheet

In terms of strength, plasterboard is inferior to stone, brick, concrete, wood, and therefore often requires additional protection. Often the edges of drywall sheets break, corners break off, and screw heads stick out unattractively. All these defects can be covered with plaster, although not every solution is suitable for gypsum plasterboard. Plaster that is too heavy will deform the sheets; too wet a mass will cause destruction and a decrease in strength. Therefore, the question of how to plaster drywall is quite complex and requires making the right decisions.

DIY plasterboard ceiling putty

At first glance, the ceiling surface, lined with plasterboard, looks absolutely smooth and flat. This is not entirely true; you don’t even need to pull the fishing line or the painting cord. If you place a steel ruler or a wide spatula on the end of the ceiling, the cracks will become visible “through the light.” Even when laid on a straight steel profile, like a string, the plasterboard lining on the ceiling, especially at the joints, has a barely noticeable “wave”.

Places with depressions and humps are usually remembered or marked with a pencil, so as not to putty with excess material.

Tools for puttying plasterboard ceilings

Without a great tool, it is very difficult to perform high-quality ceiling putty even for an experienced worker. Therefore, it is better not to buy Chinese consumer goods for putty in a store or rent it from a salon, but to borrow a tool from familiar craftsmen.

To work you will need:

• Drill with mixer attachment;
• A water tank and a plastic container with a handle for preparing and carrying ready-made putty;
• Several spatulas. Narrow, 3-5 cm, for sealing seams on drywall in narrow places, medium and working, 12 and 16 cm wide, respectively;
• Grout or board for putting putty material;
• Brushes and roller for priming the surface;
• In addition, for cleaning and leveling you will need a rule and a wide, 60-70 cm, tool for leveling the layer at the corners.

Why is drywall plastering necessary?

The paper layer of drywall does not look very attractive. It must be covered with decorative materials - wallpaper, paint. But when forming walls, ceilings and partitions, the sheets have to be joined, and the seams and heads of fasteners will be visible through the thin finishing materials. Therefore, before painting the walls or gluing wallpaper, smooth the surface of the gypsum board coating with plaster.

Other situations where plastering is mandatory are:

1. Subsequent application of decorative plaster. To improve the quality of adhesion to the decor, regular plastering work is first carried out.
2. Need for additional protection. Plaster will help protect the gypsum board from insects, rodents, mold, and external influences.
3. Rolling and bending of sheets. When it is not possible to correct deteriorated structures, some problems can be solved by plastering.

Covering gypsum board walls with decorative plaster

Plaster must be applied to the entire sheet of drywall or only to the seams and joints. In any case, standard plastering work is possible with moisture-resistant material. Ordinary gypsum board sheets will be damaged by simple plaster because it contains water. Only a building mixture that does not release moisture is suitable for them.

Is it possible to plaster gypsum boards, why should it be done?

After applying gypsum cortone to the wall and ceiling, you need to treat the joints and mask the caps from the screws with a special putty mixture. If this is not done, then these defects will be noticeable and this will affect the entire aesthetic appearance of the design of these surfaces. What is drywall used for? It ideally hides an uneven surface, which is much more expensive to plaster using other methods than to cover everything with such sheets.

But when filling this type of wall decoration, the joints between the sheets stand out and the question arises: is it possible to plaster drywall and, if so, what mixture is best to use? Experienced craftsmen disagree on this issue and cannot make a final decision. Many people say that the liquid mixture can soak plasterboard and subsequently lead to its deformation. Others argue that the use of gypsum mortar will not affect the quality of the treatment.

First you need to take a good look at the sheets of drywall. If slight deformation has already been noticed on them, which occurred before the start of repair work, then these sheets may continue to succumb to the influence of other components of the treatment mixture and their application is impractical. But if the drywall is of good quality, then you need to apply a solution of plaster for the drywall joints.

After applying gypsum cortone to the wall and ceiling, you need to treat the joints and mask the caps from the screws with a special putty mixture.

Plaster and putty - what's the difference?

These materials have a general purpose - they are both used for leveling various surfaces. However, the difference between plaster and putty is great:

• plaster allows you to smooth out significant unevenness in walls and ceilings, and putty eliminates only minor defects;
• plaster is characterized by the content of large particles, so it is used for rougher leveling; putty has a very fine grain size, it is laid down in a thin layer;
• plaster is needed for rough leveling, and putty is needed for finishing (although fine-grained putties can also be used for finishing work);
• plaster is usually applied in a thicker layer than putty (the latter’s layer does not exceed 1-3 mm);
• the strength of plaster is higher than putty, but shrinkage is also more significant;
• plaster can be applied to a large area at once and then leveled, while putty can be applied only in small portions and smoothed out with a spatula.

Final leveling of walls with putty
When choosing a material for finishing gypsum boards, you should take these features into account in order to choose a truly suitable product.

Puttying the surface of gypsum board sheets

The next step is to putty the drywall for painting. Work must be done starting from the bottom. Using bottom-up movements towards the opposite upper corner from the window, apply the first layer of putty. This should be done until the layer is even.

Make the first layer thinner. It will serve as a primer for what follows. There will be three or four layers in total. Once you've done the first one, let it dry. You can speed up drying with heat guns or spotlights. There is a main principle - a ventilated surface dries well.

In total you need to apply 3-4 layers

While the first layer of one wall is drying, do the second one, saving time. When dry, take a block of sandpaper and clean the surfaces. You also need to make a second layer and a third, if necessary, a fourth. See the results - determine from them whether the next layer is needed? But more than four is unacceptable. This is an overconsumption of material.

While one wall is drying, start puttingty on the other.

Sand each layer with sandpaper. The last layer too. As a result, you should see a surface similar to a printing sheet - a flat, white sheet the size of a wall. There are no stains or shadows on it. Such defects indicate unevenness. You can fix them without applying a layer of putty with sandpaper or a sander. Once you have achieved the desired look, you can proceed to wallpapering.

Each layer must be sanded thoroughly

Types of drywall

Depending on the composition of the core, properties and purpose, gypsum boards are classified as follows:

1. Wall plasterboard. It is a standard material based on building gypsum. It is produced in two versions: regular and ceiling. The latter is characterized by reduced thickness and reduced weight.
2. Moisture-resistant gypsum board. Lined with green cardboard, typically used in bathrooms or where it will be puttied. Treated with special impregnations, as well as antiseptics, therefore it is not afraid of moisture, fungus and mold.
3. GKLO. Fire-resistant material with the addition of reinforcing and fiber components. Suitable even for lining fireplaces and chimneys. In direct contact with fire, only the paper part is charred.
4. Flexible arched plasterboard. The core of the material contains fiberglass, which bends in any direction with a radius of up to 30 cm. It has a small thickness and a high price.
5. Moisture-resistant gypsum board. It is characterized by the properties of moisture-resistant and fire-resistant plasterboard.
6. Combined material. Designed for wall insulation, contains a layer of expanded polystyrene.

Main types of plasterboard sheets

Coverage Requirements

Now it’s worth talking about what the coating should be like and what requirements are imposed on it when it comes to painting:

1. The base must be perfectly level to avoid the appearance of unevenness, which will spoil the appearance.
2. There should be no cracks or chips whatsoever.
3. The following must be done: priming, puttying and sanding.

In some cases, fiberglass is also used, but this is mainly when arranging a high-quality coating for painting.

Selection of plaster

Drywall can be plastered with different materials, which are not the same in composition and properties. For wall and ceiling gypsum boards, it is allowed to use only those solutions that do not contain water or include a minimum amount of it. Polymer compositions are suitable for all sheets, and cement compositions are suitable only for moisture-resistant ones.

Gypsum plaster

The material is used in dry rooms because it contains gypsum, which does not tolerate moisture well. Gypsum-based plaster is well suited for gypsum board sheets, as it has a similar composition and quickly sets and hardens. The advantages of the gypsum mixture are:

• vapor permeability, no influence on the microclimate;
• environmental friendliness and fire safety;
• light weight, versatility;
• ease of mixing, application, restoration of damaged areas;
• minimal shrinkage, no cracks;
• low consumption.

Gypsum plaster composition Volma

In addition to fear of hydrophobia, gypsum plaster has other disadvantages - reduced frost resistance, the solution hardens too quickly, and the inability to add large portions at once.

Cement plaster

The main component of such a building mixture is Portland cement. Sand, plasticizers, and various additives are used as additives. Most cement plasters are considered frost-resistant, so they can be used for exterior work. They quickly and firmly adhere to the base, are easy to spread and apply, durable, resistant to moisture. Using cement mixtures, you can give moisture-resistant drywall additional protection from water.

Moisture-resistant cement-based composition Weber.Vetonit

The disadvantages of such plasters are:

• heavy weight, unsuitable for thin gypsum board sheets;
• long-term development of final strength;
• poor vibration tolerance.

Modern polymer compositions

Polymer plasters are an invention of recent years. They may have a gypsum or cement base, but their properties are still determined by the added polymer materials:

• acrylic;
• silicone;
• siloxane, etc.

Acrylic-silicone plaster
Such building mixtures easily withstand high humidity, are elastic and do not shrink, quickly gain strength and do not deteriorate from mechanical stress and vibration. They are suitable for any premises, as well as for outdoor work.

The weight of such mixtures is small, so they do not weigh down the plasterboard wall. The disadvantages include the high price of such products. In addition, they are sold already diluted in small packages, which is not always convenient.

Drywall plaster for painting

How to properly plaster a plasterboard ceiling?

How to plaster a plasterboard ceiling?

Suspended plasterboard ceilings are an excellent solution for hiding defects in a load-bearing concrete slab and creating a perfectly smooth surface underneath. Any type of decor, wallpaper, paint or ceramic tiles will look good on such a surface.

But for this you need an absolutely flat surface. In order to create it, you need to know how to plaster a plasterboard ceiling, what materials and tools are required for this. It is also important to follow the technology of this process. These nuances will be discussed.

Plastering a plasterboard ceiling: technology and materials

Perfectly smooth ceiling

Omitting the issues of installing the frame and laying gypsum boards on it, which were discussed in detail in previous articles, we will focus on one of the stages of constructing a plasterboard ceiling - its plastering.

This process is carried out for the following purposes:

• Sealing joints between sheets and holes from fasteners.
• Insulating the fragile surface of drywall from moisture and mechanical influences.
• Creating a smooth, durable surface.
• Reducing the ability of a material to absorb moisture.
• Reduced paint consumption.

To achieve the creation of a surface suitable for finishing with various decors, you should follow construction technology, which consists of performing work in a certain sequence, using serviceable tools and high-quality materials.

Sequence of work

At the installation stage, the suspended ceiling is still quite far from completion. Before decorating it must be plastered. Plastering a plasterboard ceiling involves a series of sequential actions aimed at gradually transforming the gypsum boards attached to the frame into a single monolithic plane with a perfectly flat surface.

The sequence of these actions is as follows:

• Sealing seams, edges and holes.
• Creating a base from a layer of starting putty.
• Applying a leveling layer of finishing plaster.
• Leveling, grinding and polishing.

If the work order is followed, you will get a durable and practical suspended ceiling structure that can last for decades without major repairs.

Tools and materials

Good preparation of the material and technical base is the basis for obtaining a high-quality result when carrying out repair work. A convenient tool will make the work easy and enjoyable, and good material will provide the structure with strength and durability.

To plaster a plasterboard ceiling, the following tools and equipment are needed:

• Durable container for mixing the solution with a capacity of 10-12 liters. The best option is an iron bucket with a smooth inner surface. The plastic may break due to blows from the mixer.
• A small 2-3 liter bucket for putty for seams.
• A hammer drill or a powerful electric drill with a whisk for mixing putty.
• Sturdy hand screwdriver.
• Iron spatulas with a blade width of 8-10 cm and 40-50 cm.
• Scissors.
• Sharp knife.
• Grater.
• Plastic construction helmet.
• Safety glasses made of polycarbonate.
• Respirator to protect the respiratory system from dust.
• Stable sawhorses or stepladder.

Before plastering a plasterboard ceiling, the tools must be completed and checked for serviceability.

The material is purchased according to criteria that are dictated by the operating conditions of the future structure.

Such conditions may include the following factors:

• relative humidity;
• temperature changes and their maximum values;
• properties of the material with which the ceiling will be decorated after plastering;
• probability and strength of mechanical impact on the ceiling.

After evaluating these data, ordinary, moisture-resistant or frost-resistant mixtures are purchased.

So, to plaster a suspended ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard you will need:

• gypsum mixture for starting finishing;
• finishing gypsum mixture;
• sealant for sealing gaps between the edges of sheets and walls;
• putty for sealing holes and seams;
• reinforcing or perforated tape;
• sandpaper and abrasive mesh for grouting;
• penetrating primer.

If there is not enough space in the room where the renovation is taking place, building materials can be purchased in stages, as needed.

Ceiling finishing sequence

Before plastering a plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to take measures to protect floors, walls, furniture and plants from the abundance of fine dust that will be released during the work.

Note: You should cover everything in the apartment with a special construction film and get to work.

Grouting holes and seams

Sealing seams and holes

This event will help avoid the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall sheets. Before starting, check the correct fastening of the screws. They should be recessed into the sheet by 0.7-1 mm. If the caps protrude, they are screwed in to the required depth.

Grouting is carried out in the following sequence:

• all joints, edges of sheets, holes and recesses in them are treated with a liquid primer;
• cavities are filled with putty, which is leveled with the surface;
• the gaps between the walls and the gypsum board are filled with sealant;
• sealed seams and holes are re-primed;
• reinforcing tape is glued over the seams, its connections are made overlapping;
• the rubbed surface is treated with penetrating liquid primer.

It is better to fill the gap between the sheets and the walls with sealant, because it has the ability to deform when the building settles without loss of quality.

Applying a starting coating

Applying a starting coating

The gypsum starting mixture, after being converted into a solution and drying, turns into a very strong material, almost as strong as cement. A layer of starting putty is a reliable protection for drywall from mechanical damage. To obtain this quality, it is necessary to properly prepare the solution.

This is done like this:

The gypsum solution retains its performance characteristics for only 15-20 minutes. Therefore, it must be put into action immediately.

How to putty a plasterboard ceiling. The application of putty on the ceiling begins from one of the corners and is carried out by sequentially applying strips. The technique for this work is quite simple.

The basic rules are as follows:

• the solution is collected from a bucket with a narrow spatula and evenly distributed on a wide canvas;
• a wide spatula is used to distribute the gypsum mixture over the ceiling (the optimal layer thickness is 1.5-2 mm);
• after distributing one batch, unevenness is removed with a wide tool, the material is removed from it with a narrow spatula;
• the resulting surface is left alone to harden for one day.

Further actions depend on the choice of material for decoration. If the ceiling is tiled, then it will be enough to treat it with primer. In case of wallpapering, the surface needs to be sanded. If the final finish is paint, then it will need another layer of finishing putty.

Plaster for painting

Plaster for painting

The method of preparing and applying the finishing putty to the ceiling is completely similar to working with the starting mixture. This finishing stage is somewhat easier, due to the fact that the finishing material retains its working qualities for up to 1.5 hours. After this layer of finishing has dried, it must be carefully leveled, otherwise, after painting the plasterboard ceiling, all irregularities will be clearly visible.

Leveling is carried out using abrasive materials attached to a grater. By gradually reducing the grain size, you can achieve a perfectly smooth surface. The finishing touch is to prime the surface after it has dried.

After this, the suspended plasterboard ceiling can be painted. Read about how and how this can be done in our articles.

Video about puttying drywall joints

How to putty drywall for painting and all about it

Puttying drywall for painting

Puttying drywall for painting is one of the important points. After all, if this is not done correctly, then all the errors on the plane will be visible. First, we decide how to putty drywall for painting, then how to putty drywall for painting. Here you can do everything yourself, and then the price of the work will not be high. After all, you know, finishing is not cheap. Today we will give instructions for doing this work. And in the video in this article you can see everything with your own eyes.

Completing of the work

Is it necessary to putty drywall before painting? This issue can be solved quite simply; we stretch the line diagonally across the room and use a level to see how much deviation we have. If it is more than two cm, then you need to not just putty, but first plaster. The surface must be leveled.

Attention: For leveling, use starting putty for drywall before painting. It has a larger fraction and is designed specifically for this job. If you use a cement composition, then it will cost much less.

If you have a layer of up to one cm, then you can immediately putty the finish. The first step when puttingtying plasterboard sheets is to check all the screws that secure these sheets to the profile structure.

Attention: It should be remembered that they must be screwed into the thickness of such a sheet no more than 5 mm. The head of the screw should not be allowed to be recessed deeper, but if this happens, you just need to unscrew it and screw in a new screw a few centimeters from the old hole.

To make your work easier, you can use a drill/screwdriver:

• The next step will be to widen the joints in places where the so-called “non-native” seams have formed, although there is a need for jointing standard seams. To perform this task, you need to use a sharp paint knife, thanks to which you cut about five millimeters from the edge at an angle of forty-five degrees.

• This procedure should be done with each sheet, this will improve the adhesion of putty and drywall and increase the area of ​​contact with each other.
• The seams and the entire surface of the material used must be thoroughly primed. After this procedure, putty (see putty or putty - how to speak and write correctly) fits onto the sheets much better.

Attention: It should be remembered that it is necessary to use only the primer that is intended specifically for working with gypsum plasterboard. The primer must be applied thoroughly and evenly, without leaving untreated areas.

• After twelve hours, the composition dries, which gives the green light to seal the seams. For this type of work it is recommended to use gypsum plaster. You should not save on this material, so that in the future you will not be disappointed by cracks that form on the walls due to poor-quality composition.
• This plaster can be presented in dry form, which will need to be stirred with water. This task can be easily accomplished using a construction mixer.
• At joints or seams, it is recommended to use a not very wide metal spatula. The putty is applied very carefully, completely filling all the seams without protruding onto the surface.

Attention: Do not forget that the seam should be immediately glued with sickle tape. Another thin layer of the building mixture is applied on top of it. During this procedure, it is recommended to guide the spatula in such a way that the serpyanka can be slightly pressed into the seam.

• If the seam is correct, then it is very easy to check: a large wide spatula is used for this, and if there is no clearance between the tool and the surface, you can be sure that the joints are sealed correctly.
• With the same spatula you can easily seal the heads of the screws or the holes that may remain from them. After completing this work, the putty is left to dry for about a day. Next, you should proceed to thorough sanding, after which the surface is primed again.

How to putty correctly

The first stage of putty is to cover all joints and screws, as was written earlier.

We putty all the screw heads

Attention: It is important, before starting work, to check whether the screws are deepened inside the drywall. To do this, just run your hand over the surface of the material used and make sure that they do not protrude to the surface. Otherwise, they will have to be slightly twisted.

• A drywall seam that has been cut by hand must be cut at an angle with a knife. This is necessary so that the solution can penetrate well inside.
• For a more dense application of the mixture, it is best to use a standard Knauf sheet edge (PLUK), which will help avoid unwanted cracks in the future.
• An indispensable assistant in masking seams is sickle. This self-adhesive special mesh will easily hold the putty mixture on the seams and protect them from cracks. A special perforated tape, which is based on non-woven material, is glued in places where the drywall is adjacent to the plaster.

We apply serpyanka to the seam

• The putty mixture is diluted strictly according to the instructions indicated on the package using a drill to which a special attachment is attached.

Attention: The main task when puttingty is to fill the seam as much as possible, hide the mesh, while applying a minimum layer of building mixture.

• As for the corners, they are puttied alternately, that is, in one direction, then in the opposite direction. Using cross-shaped movements, the caps of the screws are covered. After the putty has completely dried, you need to go over the seams again. Using a perforated corner. You can easily disguise a raised joint or corner.
• The putty consumption will be approximately the following: for one square meter of material you will have to spend 1 kilogram of construction mixture.
• To putty corners on drywall using a corner, first of all you need to measure the length and cut off the corner. The glue for the corner will be a layer of putty applied to any of the joining surfaces. After this, you should apply the cut corner closely, while pressing on the side of the corner, for example, with a long level or a block.
• The next stage is to putty the perforated joint. In order to properly and efficiently putty the ceiling at the junction of a corner made of a material such as plasterboard, you need a starting mixture, which is subsequently laid at the junction using a spatula.

Attention: It is very important to create a flat plane without sharp drops and bumps. The putty is applied in two or three layers and one should not forget that they should be thin. A huge mistake would be trying to apply one large layer at once. In the future it will crack, all the work done will be in vain.

• After all the material used has dried, the surface should be sanded using a grouting mesh.
• The final stage can be called finishing putty. In this case, various polymer putty mixtures are used. This high-tech material is unique in that it is capable of creating a very thin coating literally down to one millimeter. Thanks to this layer, the surface will become smooth and completely ready for further use - decorative finishing.
• In the case when the wall is being prepared for painting, the putty is done more carefully, since even the smallest joint or crooked corner can end up being too noticeable and ruin the whole picture.

Surface grinding

Drywall putty for painting is sanded after complete drying. After all, you will still have divorces in any case.

Sanding the ceiling

• We take the construction mesh for sanding and place it on a flat block. Or you can purchase a special grater where the mesh is attached.
• We begin to process the entire plane with gentle movements.
• After completion, we are left with shells on the surface. They need to be treated with putty.
• We make a mixture for putty, but with a more liquid composition.
• Now we rub the shells with it. To do this, use a spatula.
• After drying, use three mesh again and sand the ceiling. And this is done until the surface is completely flat.

Now you understand whether it is necessary to putty drywall before painting. The plane should be perfectly flat and therefore the processing will have to be done unambiguously. But on the topic of how to properly putty drywall for painting, there are some tips:

• It is best to apply the putty to the surface to be used with two spatulas, one of which should be narrow and the second wider. With a smaller spatula it is convenient to apply the putty onto a large spatula and, if necessary, remove excess from it.
• If roll coating is preferred, it is important to properly putty the drywall.

Attention: In fact, the quality of the selected wallpaper is a very important point. Heavy textile wallpaper for the ceiling requires a rough surface. This will promote better bonding.

• Thus, it is better to use a coarse mixture and do not use finishing putty. The surface is covered with rough putty and grouting is done only in clearly defective areas.
• If you decide to paint the surface, it is recommended to use special water-based compounds for painting plasterboard sheets. When decorating the walls of a bathroom or kitchen, it is best to give preference to a water-based solution that is not afraid of moisture. This type of paint is usually presented in white, which can subsequently be given any shade using special mixtures.
• Without a doubt, the best and most convenient tool for painting walls is a spray gun, when used, the paint lies perfectly evenly on the surface and the quality of the work done will be obvious. But using this tool requires certain operational skills. The most common roller can be considered a backup option. It can be either short-pile fur or a velor coat.
• It is advisable to paint walls or ceilings when the heating is turned off, so you should worry about this issue in advance. This is necessary for complete and uniform drying of the paint on the surface and will protect the material used from cracking.
• An important factor when carrying out such work is the exclusion of drafts.

If you follow these simple rules when preparing walls for painting, you can be sure of an excellent final result that will delight the owners for many years to come. Puttying drywall for painting is a rather sensitive issue. Here you will need to spend time. But in return you will get a perfectly flat surface.

Graduated from the Faculty of Architecture of the Penza State Institute of Architecture and Construction. For the last ten years, he has been a leading specialist in a large construction company in Penza, engaged in the construction of multi-storey residential buildings. Total work experience in the specialty is 18 years. Consults on design issues, selection of materials for interior and exterior decoration, and technology for finishing work.

Do-it-yourself drywall putty for painting - technology

February 14, 2016

There are two ways to achieve geometric correctness of walls and ceilings - by plastering uneven surfaces or sheathing them with sheet materials on profiles. In both cases, the final leveling is treatment with special dry mixtures. Plasterboard putty for painting has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when carrying out repairs.

What and how to treat the surface so that the paint lasts long? This will be discussed in this article.

Types of putties

Modern putties are of two types according to their physical state: dry and pasty. In the first case, the mixture must be diluted with water before use. Paste putties are ready for use without preliminary preparation; all that remains is to open the lid of the package. In both cases these are fine compositions. This distinguishes them from plasters, which are designed to eliminate large surface defects.

The binders in dry compositions are cement, polymer, and gypsum. Pasty leveling mixtures are made mainly from polymer binders. The area of ​​application of putties depends on the main component. Traditionally, leveling finely dispersed compositions are applied to the surface in several layers. The first layer is the leveling (preliminary, rough) mixture, the second is the final (finishing) mixture.

What putty should I use to putty drywall before painting?

Mixtures with gypsum binder are used in dry interior spaces. This type is now the most common. Such compounds are easy to apply and sand, while the color of the material remains white. And this is a determining factor in subsequent painting.

Gypsum is not compatible with hydrosetting binders. These are cement mixtures. Therefore, the use of such compositions on gypsum bases is prohibited. Plasterboard putty for painting should not be based on cement. In general, it is allowed to treat gypsum plasters with cement leveling mixtures, but only with a high-quality primer.

Polymer putties are an ideal base for painting. Their grain size is very fine (almost imperceptible), and it is due to this that a smooth surface is achieved.

Technology of using mixtures

Construction materials are supplied to the consumer accompanied by instructions for their use. Most of the requirements for different types of putties are the same.

Leveling dry mixtures are prepared before work, diluting them with water in the ratio indicated on the packaging. The properties of ready-made putties are valid for a certain time. It is different for each type of mixture. The average “lifetime” of putties ranges from 5 hours to a day, then the ability to be evenly distributed over the surface is lost.

Do-it-yourself puttying of drywall for painting with a spatula. There are stations for automatically applying such compositions, but they are used on large-scale construction sites. And polymer compounds are used as putty.

Mixture application technology: main stages

The surface on which it is planned to apply the first rough layer of putty must be cleaned of dust and grease stains. Plasterboard sheathing should not contain irregularities at the joints and protruding parts of fasteners. If such defects exist, then the connecting seams are cut with a knife, and the heads of the screws are deepened by 1 mm.

The technology of puttying drywall for painting consists of the following stages: preparation of the base, application of the starting mixture, finishing composition, primer, sanding the surface after each coating and dust removal.

The first layer of the compound is applied to the seams, each fastener head is covered. To prevent the joints from cracking after painting, reinforced paper tape is attached to the undried first layer along the connecting seams of the gypsum boards. After 12 hours of drying, it is necessary to sand, remove dust and prime the surface.

This treatment is necessary to equalize the absorbency of the base. Plasterboard putty for painting requires a two-layer rough application of leveling compounds. Moreover, the second time it is necessary to create a continuous cover.

The final stage before painting

When the covering layer dries, it is sanded. If up to this point the starting putty was used, then the third layer is created by the finishing composition. It helps to achieve a flat and smooth surface due to the small particles in its composition. That is, finishing putty on drywall before painting is mandatory. It can be neglected before wallpapering, since irregularities under the layer of rolled material will be hidden.

The final coat is applied very thinly before painting. There is a special technique for applying the finishing composition, called “scraping”. This is when, after applying the mixture, it is removed with a spatula perpendicular to the surface. As a result, the smallest irregularities are filled with microparticles, and a smooth base is obtained.

After complete drying, the surface is cleaned and dust is removed from it. Next you need to go over the primer. These actions will ensure even distribution of paint over the surface. If you do not prime the finishing layer before painting, the consumption of paint material will increase.

Working with a spatula

Puttying of plasterboard ceilings for painting and walls is done using two special spatulas - spatulas: wide (300 mm) and narrow (90 mm). The smaller tool takes the leveling mixture and transfers it to the larger one.

Solid putty involves spreading the mixture in a thin layer on drywall. Moreover, when applying from left to right, the spatula is held so that its left part is located lower than the right. It turns out that on the left of the tool there is a smooth application, and on the right a layer of putty is formed, which is removed from the wall or ceiling and used for the next installation.

The size of the applied layer is regulated by the angle of inclination of the spatula to the base. The smaller it is, the thicker the strip of putty. The standard angle for application is 60 degrees. At 15⁰ to the treated surface, smoothing is performed, which must be performed by overlapping the previously smoothed strip by 2 cm.

Sealing joints and finishing corners

The joints between the gypsum sheets are sealed using paper tape to prevent cracks from appearing later after the final cladding. Initially, putty is applied perpendicular to the seam with a spatula, after which the excess is removed by moving along the seam from bottom to top. Such manipulations are performed when plasterboard walls are puttied for painting. When working with transverse joints on the ceiling, excess construction mixture is removed in the direction “away from you.”

In both options, reinforcing tape is applied to the undried layer, and the joints are re-treated with a spatula.

External corners are sealed using perforated elements. And the serpyanka is laid in the inner corners, and an indirect spatula is used.

Mix quality

Plastering a plasterboard ceiling for painting means the final result will be a perfectly smooth surface. Before painting it, it is possible to check the quality of the leveling layer. To do this, use a flashlight and a level. It is necessary to install the instrument to a wall or ceiling and hide a small light source behind it. If no gaps appear between the level and the surface, then there are no differences or roughnesses. And this is a sign of high-quality grinding.

If, nevertheless, small irregularities are present, it is better to go through it again with sandpaper or a grinding machine. The finishing putty is cleaned with fine-grained abrasive. This applies to gypsum mixtures. Due to their high plasticity, polymer compositions do not require grinding.

Recommendations for better results

Application of leveling compounds should occur at an ambient temperature of +5 to +30 degrees. The puttying surface should also be at the same temperature. Direct sunlight should be avoided when leveling. But this applies more to outdoor work.

To ensure that the drywall putty for painting does not crack after the repair is completed, it is necessary to follow the work technology. A common mistake is incorrect preparation of the solution. It is necessary to add water exactly according to the instructions and mix the composition thoroughly. Cracks can occur when laying the building mixture in a layer of more than 1.5 mm at a time. Therefore, using a primer at each stage of the job helps achieve a thin application.

Do not neglect waiting for the putty to dry completely before the next stage of installation. It is a mistaken belief that for better adhesion of the material, forced ventilation of the room is required. Drafts are the enemy of uncured plaster. An important condition for achieving a high-quality result is the choice of high-quality material.

What putty should I use to putty drywall before painting? Reviews about "Knauf"

Construction forums reveal a picture of the leaders among leveling mixtures used in modern repairs. Mixtures of Knauf, Ceresit and Vetonit have become popular putty compositions for interior work on drywall.

known for its gypsum-based building materials. The manufacturer for interior putty has developed a technology for carrying out work and adapted its products to it. To seal the seams between gypsum boards, it is proposed to use the product “Fugen” and “Uniflot”. For finishing purposes, the “Rotband Profi” line has been developed, which is supplied ready-made, which eliminates the possibility of making a mistake in preparing the correct solution. Reviews about the materials of this TM are positive.

If you lay the “Rotband Pro” finish “on the strip”, you get an even and thin strip of white color. For comparison: Vetonit LR putty (polymer) is more liquid in consistency, and this is a minus in ease of application. In addition, after leveling it, grooves remain, which indicates insufficient plasticity of the material. And the color after laying it on the surface is not quite white.

The master will tell you which putty to choose for drywall for painting. If the repairs will be carried out on your own, then it is better to try to purchase Knauf products.

Finally

Putties, primers, dry mixes must be purchased at the same price level. You should not collect cheap and expensive materials at the same time, otherwise their incompatibility may occur. Each manufacturer produces a line of its products designed for a specific technology of work.

And if you choose to seal the seams between sheets of drywall, you should purchase a primer, putty mixtures and finishing solution from the same company.

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Tools and consumables for work

Working with plaster and gypsum board sheets is done using special tools. You should prepare them in advance according to the following list:

• construction mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment;
• metal and rubber spatulas of different sizes;
• reinforcing mesh (canvas) to strengthen structures;
• fine-grained sandpaper;
• masking tape and a stationery knife;
• bucket or other container, water, rags;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Tools for plastering work
Brushes and rollers may be required for priming walls, and a trowel is usually required for leveling plaster.

Basic special tools

The main tools include those without which you simply cannot work when puttingtying drywall, these are:

Spatulas must be selected according to your hand; too long, too short amenities will add little. How to understand this? First, buy what the store recommends and try to work. You will see for yourself if the mixture constantly falls off the spatula or there is too little of it, it is not suitable.

The roller should be selected wide for large surface areas, narrow for corners, protrusions, columns. When priming walls, you need a handle to the roller. The most convenient option is a telescopic holder, but a mop stick will also work. You will need a fluffy roller, one that wets well. It should not “shed”, the less lint on the wall, the better the quality of the primer, but it doesn’t matter if hair gets into the primer, further work will hide the defect.

The bath is selected according to the size of the roller. The quantity depends on the number of people performing the work.

A mixer is a power tool designed for preparing small volumes of building mixtures. You can replace this with a regular drill or hammer drill. Be careful when using a tool not intended for preparing mixtures, take into account the technical characteristics. Overloading is unacceptable, otherwise it will burn out.

A grinding machine is a power tool designed for mechanical grinding. It can be replaced with a block of sandpaper.

Tools should always be at hand

Features of preparatory work

First you need to level the surface of the gypsum board and seal the fasteners. By inspection and palpation, check whether there are screw heads protruding above the sheet. If possible, they should be tightened tighter, but carefully so that cracks do not appear in the sheet. You can use a screwdriver - this way all actions will be better controlled. Next, the holes are filled with plaster, applying it crosswise with a narrow spatula.

There is an edge at the joints of the material, but in some cases the manufacturer does not form it. In such a situation, you will have to take a sharp stationery knife and cut the ends at an angle of 45 degrees. Otherwise, the sealing of the seams will be of poor quality. Chips in gypsum boards and other defects are covered with plaster or putty, always reinforced with a piece of mesh. Arches and other elements with bends are reinforced with special corners, which can be external or internal.

Reinforcement of joints of plasterboard sheets

The following are also taken as preparatory measures:

• clean the gypsum board well from dust, brushing it off with dry rags;
• prime the material with solutions that strengthen the structure;
• After a day, the condition of the putty defects is assessed - if shrinkage appears, the work is repeated.

Leveling the surface

By leveling we mean a perfectly flat surface, without bumps or pits. After the corners and seams, it is necessary to repair the holes from the screws on the drywall. We will do this with the same composition that we used to putty the corners. Cover the holes crosswise. Next we go with a level along the entire wall, then with a carrying lamp. It will show small irregularities, which we will also fill with putty.

The leveled surface must dry. After which it is necessary to grout it. To do this, fine sandpaper is attached to a plastic trowel, which we will use to rub it. Do-it-yourself puttying of drywall joints using paper tape can be seen in the video below.

Drywall plastering technology

Plastering of plasterboard walls is usually carried out using the “scraping” technology. Any unevenness with differences of less than 1.5 cm is treated with a wide spatula in one or two layers with mandatory intermediate drying. The applied composition is leveled using a rule, resting it on the surface of the plasterboard. In some cases, the curvature of the walls is more significant. Then the plasterboard is plastered along the beacons. Apply the material in 2 layers and sand down any unevenness.

For painting

If you plan to finish the gypsum board for painting, the surface must be perfectly leveled. It is possible to apply 2-3 layers of starting plaster, although usually it is limited to 1-2 layers. After drying, the surface is sprinkled with a little water and rubbed with a grater in a circular manner. Finishing putty must be performed, and after drying, thorough sanding to eliminate the smallest irregularities.

Under the wallpaper

Without plastering plasterboard walls under wallpaper, there is a high risk that the finish will stick tightly to the wall. If it is necessary to change the wallpaper, the top layer of plasterboard will be torn off along with it. Under thin paper sheets, careful plastering is carried out, similar to what is required for painting walls.

Thicker wallpaper can hide minor imperfections in the surface, so it is permissible to use only starting fine-grained plaster. Then the wall is rubbed down, after drying it is sanded and primed. Then it will be ready for wallpapering.

Plastering plasterboard walls under wallpaper

Why do this?

Depending on the tasks being pursued and the condition of the surfaces to be leveled, the sheets can be glued or screwed to the frame. When looking at the finished surface, the question of whether it is necessary to plaster the drywall under the wallpaper disappears.

The reasons for the need for this activity are as follows:

1. Self-tapping screw heads, recesses at the joints of slabs, and cracks are visible. If preliminary leveling is not carried out, then pits or bulges will remain in such places.
2. The outer shell is unpresentable; it has various inscriptions, markings, marking lines, and sometimes even the master’s working notes. It is impossible to hide all this with thin wallpaper or paint - it will show through.
3. The outer layer of paper is not durable, it is easy to tear or scratch; you need a hard and durable shield, which is created by drywall plaster for painting.
4. The outer layer of cardboard has high adhesion. The finishing trim is firmly glued to it. When the time comes to replace it, fragments of the gypsum board along with the core come off along with the cladding. As a result, it is necessary to change the slabs and sometimes redo the frame.

Novice craftsmen often have doubts about the compatibility of the liquid finishing solution and the hygroscopic coating of the slabs.

This property of the material is not an obstacle to its finishing. For this, there are solutions such as preliminary priming and the use of polymer-based compositions.

Is it possible to apply decorative plaster to gypsum boards?

Decorative plaster is a finishing material. Such mixtures are widely used for plastering gypsum boards. The most common types of plaster are:

• relief (textured) - products with a coarse texture, including various fillers (mineral chips, mica, fibers, pebbles);
• structural - contain quartz or marble chips, the finished coating is almost smooth or slightly embossed;
• Venetian - they contain slaked lime and marble in the form of crumbs, so the coating imitates a natural stone surface.

Applying Venetian plaster to plasterboard
Before applying any decorative plaster to drywall, carry out the entire cycle of preparatory work with priming. For thin-layer coatings, gypsum boards are additionally coated with putty and sanded to perfect smoothness.

Apply the finishing material with a spatula, trowel or roller, following the technique for creating the selected effect. The decorative layer should not be too thick. After drying, it is coated with varnish or paint.

Putty: finishing layer

Finishing the surface involves making the base smooth before painting. The putty is applied very thinly over the leveling layer. You should work in the same way, using wide and narrow spatulas. At this stage, you can putty minor unevenness; to detect them, you need to illuminate the wall or plasterboard ceiling with a flashlight from different positions.

After the layer of finishing putty has completely dried, it is necessary to sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper; for convenience, it should be put on a special grater. When grouting a plasterboard ceiling, take care to protect your eyes and respiratory system from small particles of plaster.

You can also use a flashlight or lamp to achieve perfect results. Wherever there is a shadow, there are irregularities; after painting they can be very noticeable.

Before applying the paint, you need to apply the primer again - it will bind small particles of dust and protect the putty layer from moisture penetration.

Is it possible to plaster drywall with Rotband?

Gypsum plaster "Rotband" from "Knauf" is perfect for working with gypsum boards. This is a high-quality product made in Germany, which is suitable for dry and damp rooms, and due to its lightness, for ceilings. Rotband contains gypsum, polymers, fillers and plasticizers. The surface after applying this plaster is perfectly smooth. The only downside is that the product is unsuitable for metal, so the screw heads must be well insulated in advance.

Gypsum plaster "Rotband" for interior work

Before applying Rotband, it is necessary to treat it with a deep-penetrating primer, which improves adhesion to the base and prevents moisture from seeping from the plaster into the gypsum board sheet. For work, use a spatula measuring 30 cm or more, holding it at an angle of 40 degrees. Drying “Rotband” lasts 24-48 hours depending on the thickness of the layer.

Ceiling primer

Water-soluble compounds are used to prime drywall. When applying them, it is important not to overdo it. If you wet the surface of the drywall too much, not only the top paper layer will get wet, but also part of the internal gypsum filling. This will lead to cardboard peeling, wrinkles, and later bubbles.

Prices for acrylic paint

1. The roller is placed on a long handle - this way you don’t have to constantly carry a stepladder or stand.
2. The primer is applied in two layers. The first is along the long side of the drywall sheets, the second is perpendicular to the first. The surface of the ceiling is quickly rolled with a roller, without stopping in one place to avoid waterlogging. Dry the primer completely between coats.
3. The joints are primed with a brush, since the roller does not penetrate into the cracks and gaps. Do the same with corners and junctions with walls.

Important! You cannot use alkyd-based primers for drywall - they destroy the paper layer, and later it will creep along with the paint.

Tips and tricks

If you decide to decorate a room with gypsum board sheets, you should purchase moisture-resistant material. It is more expensive, but much better quality. Even in dry rooms, unexpected contacts of the base with water are possible, while the integrity of the drywall will be preserved. To ensure that the work is completed efficiently, you should follow the following tips:

• work at temperatures within +5...+30 degrees and humidity up to 60%;
• eliminate drafts in the room;
• start plastering from the ceiling;
• monitor the condition of gypsum board joints - cut off loose cardboard, sand the seams with sandpaper, repair chips;
• Seal sockets and switches with masking tape to prevent splashes;
• do not forget about applying a primer, if possible, apply at least 2 layers of primer;
• apply reinforcing tape exactly in the middle of the seam;
• dilute dry mixtures only with cold water.

Working with drywall is not difficult, and the result when you follow the technology is excellent. This material allows you to give walls evenness, create beautiful designs and make the interior modern and stylish!

Priming and strengthening

The primer impregnation procedure is necessary to improve the water-repellent properties of the material and high-quality adhesion with subsequent finishing. It is advisable that the mixture contains an antiseptic; it will provide protection against mold and mildew.

You can choose any primer (for example, deep penetration or acrylic), except alkyd - it is not suitable for cardboard. It is more convenient to apply the composition on the walls with a roller and brush, and on the ceiling with a roller with a telescopic handle. It will take no more than 2 days to completely dry the layer.

To strengthen internal corners and joints between sheets, reinforcing tape (fiberglass tape or paper) is used. It is applied directly during puttying.

You need to strengthen the outer corners from mechanical damage with a special perforated metal corner. It should be applied to all external corners and secured with self-tapping screws or small nails.

Which is better: heated floors or radiators?

Warm floorBatteries

How to putty drywall: level the planes

To putty surfaces, you will need a large spatula - with a blade of 40 cm or more and a narrow one - 10 cm. The first layer is applied with starting putty. It is applied in a layer of about 5 mm (the maximum should be checked in the instructions for the specific putty) and hides all the unevenness. Dilute it with water until it becomes thick sour cream, stir thoroughly so that there are no lumps.

These spatulas are needed to putty drywall over the entire surface.

The technique for puttingtying the surface of drywall is simple: take a large spatula, at its end using a small spatula, lay out a roller of putty. We press the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. We repeat several times, filling some part of the wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade and run it over the newly puttied surface, leveling it. You need to level it as carefully as possible - less time will be required for grinding.

When you have finished puttingtying the drywall, wait until it dries. Then you take a familiar tool - a block with a mesh - and smooth out all the flaws. Sanding is completed, remove the dust, and cover the surface again with a deep penetration primer. After drying, begin applying the second layer.

This is how you hold the spatula

Next, you need to putty the drywall with a finishing compound. As they wrote, it can also be gypsum-based, like the starter one, or it can be polymer-based. Both are suitable, but some are more difficult to work with - they quickly begin to roll and harden.

The finishing putty is made more liquid and applied in a thinner layer. The application technique is the same, nothing changes. Besides the fact that it is more difficult to work with, it spreads worse, but you need to stretch it in a thin layer and quickly level it. Everything is much better with a primer, but without it, the bottom layer quickly draws moisture out of the fresh plaster and it begins to roll off. After applying the finishing putty, wait until everything dries again, then begin leveling. But this time they do not use a mesh - it leaves noticeable grooves, but fine-grained sandpaper. It is not so convenient to work with - it clogs quickly, but the surface is smooth. If you are preparing the surface for painting, we light it from below or from the side and you can use an LED lamp rather than an incandescent lamp - all flaws are visible. Even very small ones.

It is difficult to describe in words how to putty drywall - the movements are difficult to describe. In the video you can see how to hold the spatula, how to move it, how to apply or remove the solution. See the video for more details on the technology.

And further.

Properties of fiberglass

Painting fiberglass outwardly creates the impression of an absolutely fragile material that can tear with careless movements. However, when glued, it creates an excellent reinforcing layer that prevents existing cracks from spreading and prevents the formation of new ones.

Given the different densities of the material, it is divided into certain classes. Accordingly, the cost of such a web is based on thickness. For gluing to the ceiling, a thickness of 26 g/m2 is sufficient. This will create a light but durable reinforcing layer.

In addition, the material has a number of advantages:

• thanks to the use of natural raw materials, fiberglass is environmentally friendly;
• high breathability helps maintain an optimal microclimate;
• the composition of the material does not contribute to the formation of fungi and mold;
• perfectly amenable to wet cleaning;
• the strength of the material prevents the formation of microcracks;
• being absolutely non-flammable, the material does not emit harmful fumes when in contact with fire;
• The fiberglass ceiling can be glued to any materials, including natural and polymers.

Thanks to the interesting weave pattern, the fiberglass-covered ceiling looks original.

Cobweb to strengthen the ceiling

How to apply putty to sheet joints and corners?

Before you start painting, you need to putty all joints and corners. A wide variety of tools are used for this, although they are simple. You need to take several different spatulas, sponges, serpyanka, corners, paper tape. Putty may also differ in its composition. If you putty before painting in the bathroom, then you need to use special, moisture-resistant mixtures, and the drywall itself must be moisture-resistant or treated with hydrostop. Before you putty a sheet of drywall before painting in the bathroom, be sure to apply a primer to protect the walls from the negative effects of water and steam.

Diagram of the correct joining of drywall sheets.

You should start working at room temperature and relative humidity no more than 80%. First, you need to prime all the surfaces where the putty will be applied, then those places where there are traces of the screw heads and joints. But with joints, everything is not so simple: you should not only putty the joints of the sheets, but also pre-glue a special tape in the form of a thin mesh. This will make the joints stronger and more resistant to cracking. Such reinforcement will help keep the paint layer intact in the future.

Before painting in the bathroom and other rooms, you need to putty with various spatulas: wide ones are suitable for internal corners, narrow joints are used for joints and corners. Before covering with putty, all external corners are covered with metal corners to give the corner evenness. This is done in this way: putty is applied to the corner using a spatula, then a perforated corner is applied along the entire length and pressed, squeezing out the excess.

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Mistakes made at work

Lack of reinforcement, improper priming and other errors lead to swelling and cracks. The plaster quickly falls off if the work is not done in good faith.

Examples of errors:

1. Too thin a solution may drain on a crooked base.
2. The thick mixture does not adhere well to the surface, so the plaster bulges or falls off.
3. The surface is not primed. In such cases, the plaster adheres less well to the surface. If you do not prime the putty before applying the 2nd layer, it is guaranteed to fall off during grouting.
4. Many craftsmen believe that the primer is used only to moisten the surface, so they do not wait for it to dry or water the ceilings with ordinary water.
5. Lack of reinforcing elements at the junctions of joints made of different materials.
6. The absence of reinforcement often leads to the formation of cracks as a result of shrinkage.
7. Some builders do not know that the reinforcement should be inside the plaster layer, and not under it. Because of this error, the solution is more easily deformed.
8. Beacons cannot be left in the wall as they rust. Traces of corrosion appear on the surface after finishing.
9. The solution hardens worse at temperatures below +5 degrees.
10. Moisture evaporates from the mixture too quickly if the room is too hot.

When plastering, the thickness of the permissible layer must not be exceeded.
Before applying each new layer of finishing materials, you must wait until the previous one has completely dried. Haste is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders.

What materials to choose

If you plan to plaster drywall, then it is necessary to use a special material with increased moisture resistance. In the production of this type of finishing material, gypsum and cardboard are used. Accordingly, it gets wet when moisture gets on it, so you need to take sheets impregnated with a special hydrophobic impregnation, which increases their resistance to moisture and they can be treated with various mixtures containing a large amount of water. Such sheets have a different appearance, greener color and higher cost.

You will also need primer mixtures for the job. Ideal in this particular case would be a deep penetration primer. It will protect plasterboard from the effects of other materials and prepare the surface for applying other decorative types of coating: paint, glue, putty.

Before choosing mixtures for applying drywall plaster, you need to be guided by the following criteria:

Preparation of putty

The finished putty does not require any preparation. You just need to open the container, scoop the material onto a spatula and get to work right away. To take a break, simply cover the bucket with a tight lid.

Things are different with dry putty, since it will have to be prepared. You need to prepare dry putty in parts so that it does not set while you work. Cooking instructions are written on the packaging. A third of the water is poured into the cooking container. One person mixes the composition with a mixer, and the second gradually pours in the putty until the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained. Then the composition should be left to set for 5 minutes, and then mixed at low speed for 1 minute.

Prices for gypsum putty

gypsum putty

Preparing putty for the ceiling

After preparation, the material must not be stirred or diluted with water, so as not to destroy the molecular bonds. After thickening, the residue will have to be thrown away: thickened putty, improperly diluted with water, will leave lumps and grooves on the surface. The solution should be prepared for approximately 2 hours of work - this is its lifespan. Please note that it is much more difficult to putty the ceiling than the walls, because your hands get tired faster in the position on top.