How to properly apply putty to the metal of a car

In this short article I will touch on the topic of applying putty to the “bare” metal of a car.

Newcomers to body repair often ask how to properly apply car putty. Is it possible to putty the “bare” metal of the body or do you need to prime the repair area first? Also, the question arises of applying putty to the old body panel paint.

So, let's look into this issue. According to the technology of puttying a car body, the putty should be applied to clean metal prepared for puttying with sandpaper. You can use sanding paper with abrasive grade P80-P120. When cleaning, for example, with a wire nozzle, the surface can be smoothed. Sanding metal will create risks (scratches) that the putty will stick to. You can immediately remove the old paint using an eccentric sander with a suitable grinding wheel.

The area exceeding the damage boundaries is cleaned (with a margin).

Applying putty to the “bare” metal of a car body

In this short article I will touch on the topic of applying putty to the “bare” metal of a car.

Newcomers to body repair often ask how to properly apply car putty. Is it possible to putty the “bare” metal of the body or do you need to prime the repair area first? Also, the question arises of applying putty to the old body panel paint.

The area exceeding the damage boundaries is cleaned (with a margin).

Applying anti-corrosion primer to metal from A to Z

Greetings, car enthusiast on the RtiIvaz.ru blog!

Today's video will be devoted to the continuation of the topic of body repair, namely about preparing the car for a complete repaint. The previous video showed how to properly apply putty when removing problem areas in a plane, using the example of the rear wing arch of a car.

On this car (see video) there were problem areas where pockets of corrosion appeared. Previously, putty was applied by the previous owner and when processing it, in some places it was rubbed down to “bare” metal. And since the car was then parked on the street, all these clean parts of the metal were covered with a layer of rust.

It was also shown how to remove these pockets of corrosion by stripping the surface to bare metal.

Today we will look, in continuation of the topic of body repair, how to protect these areas from new corrosion and what we will need for this.

Acid fill primers will be needed to remove the rust itself and protect the metal from its reappearance. To do this, we use an anti-corrosion primer. But you will also need filling primers to cover acidic primers and prepare the surface for puttying, namely acrylic primer.

It will also be shown how to tape the work area along the contour so as not to touch those parts of the car that do not require repair.

As a result, you will understand how to eliminate pockets of rust and what materials to use to prepare the car for further repairs.

Part overview and work to be done

So let's get started. First, let's look at the work done earlier. In the previous part, we looked at the process of cleaning the wing arch to remove a layer of rust, and also, while cleaning out the old putty, we “found” traces of welding, which we cleaned to remove traces of rust.

It is very difficult to clean welding points and metal transitions from corrosion using only sandpaper. The master recommends putting a metal brush in a drill and using it to clean these areas to bare metal.

To clean areas with a lot of rust or in hard-to-reach places, it is better to use a drill with a brush, or an angle grinder using a blade disc.

Next, this arch will need to be primed, since you cannot put putty on bare metal. Firstly, the putty will have poor adhesion and, secondly, a rust area may form again under it.

This is due to the fact that when the putty dries, it heats up somewhat and condensation forms under the metal, which leads to the formation of new corrosion.

Preparing the surface for the primer - shading the ends of the putty

It is necessary to consider some nuances before work.

There are places on this car where the edges of the putty have not been finished. In the first video when reviewing the car, we saw that too much putty was applied to the rear, which even blocked the transition line of the rear fender. Therefore, the master had to remove the excess with a screwdriver; the putty simply fell off.

Rust formed under the putty, which literally “lifted” it from where it was applied on the wing.

There were traces of corrosion on the surface, cracks in the putty itself, which is unacceptable and needs to be cleaned down to the metal and then insulating primers applied.

In this case, when applying new putty, you need to prepare the surface of the old putty, this is especially important when there is a thick layer of it. After the old putty has been removed, or more precisely, the part where the rust was, on the remaining part you can feel the transition to pure metal.

Before applying new putty, the transition boundary must be reduced to nothing, since materials cannot be applied in steps. If this is not done, then the new putty will subsequently “sag” a little and this transition boundary will be visible, even when sealed with soil. Therefore, the transition just needs to be removed.

To do this, you need to shade the transition border. This is done either using a block of P80 sandpaper or using a sander with the same grade of sandpaper.

The master in the video reminds you that you need to use the machine with the entire plane of the circle, without pressing on the ends, so that the surface being processed remains smooth without any scratches.

You can see in the video that Vlad reduces the step to nothing, trying to get rid of the transition. You need to step back a little from the edge of the border so that the transition is not felt at all when you draw it with your hand.

Video author Vlad ShchCh: Car painting from A to Z. Complete repainting of a used car. Part #7 - insulating the metal on the part. The video clearly shows that the putty has been shaded and the transition is practically not felt and you can proceed to further actions.

There is also a strip of bare metal on the rear fender and this also needs to be primed before applying the filler. Before this, you need to go over the edges with P150 sandpaper to knock down any rough marks. Then blow everything off with compressed air, wipe with anti-silicone to remove any remaining dust, and you can begin gluing and applying primer.

Car wrapping for local priming

Pasting is necessary to protect adjacent parts from getting primer, and also to prevent it from getting into the interior, etc.

Vlad Shchch has already explained how the gluing process is carried out in previous videos. If you have not followed the topic from the very beginning, you can view it for reference on the article feed page.

Initially, we wipe with a napkin with anti-silicone the places where the masking tape will be attached, and then the surface to be treated.

Today we will need masking tape and sheets of paper. To begin with, we paste masking tape onto the sheet and then glue the sheet with tape to the surface to be protected, but gluing it on the wrong side (well shown in the video). This is necessary so that the primer does not get on the tape itself and does not violate the painting boundary. Plus, an edge appears on the paper, which helps when applying primer to create a swirl in this area and the primer lays down more softly.

Application of primary acid primer

We will prime in two stages. First we apply the acid primer, and then we apply the acrylic fill primer. Acid primer must be applied carefully so that less of it gets on the putty itself.

At the same time, we set the spray gun to low pressure, which eliminates the appearance of a cloud and the soil falls only on the metal, practically without getting on the putty. It should be noted that we did not cover the wheels, since the pressure is small and nothing gets on them.

An anti-corrosion acid primer was applied to all exposed metal parts, now you need to let it dry for about 15 minutes and then cover it with acrylic primer.

We also do the same in the back part, where we shaded the putty.

The result of applying primer and further actions

As you can see, we have completed the priming process and we can begin applying putty.

Acrylic primer dries in about 2-3 hours at a room temperature of about 24 degrees and you need to wait before continuing to work further.

After removing the tape, you can clearly see that the soil lay down very neatly without a clearly defined border. This occurs due to the paper being glued inside out, when a so-called pocket is formed between it and the metal, which serves to swirl the jet. It is also clear that no primer was applied to the adjacent parts, and they remained clean.

Another advantage of using primer is that after applying it, all imperfections in the form of unevenness, pores or seams are immediately visible. So in our case, traces of welding appeared, which were well “filled” with primer and it was clearly visible where the putty should be applied.

We also primed the second wing, where the putty was applied, while the primer was applied with a reserve on the old putty just above the transition. This is done so that in the future there will be no problems with shrinkage of the new putty.

Do I need to prime before puttying?

The only primer that can be used before puttying is epoxy primer. This is done if the body has been restored for a long time. This is usually done by restorers whose car sits for a long time (sometimes several weeks or even months) in the workshop. As you know, there is moisture in the air. With prolonged exposure to air, even in a garage, under a roof, the metal oxidizes and, in the future, corrosion may occur. If welding work has been carried out on the metal, then it is also better to coat it with epoxy primer, having first cleaned the seam and removed scale.

Some official service centers for luxury cars also use epoxy primer during repairs for additional guaranteed protection against rust.

The putty can be applied to the epoxy primer until it completely hardens. There is a chemical bond between the primer and the putty. Epoxy primer takes a long time to completely harden (see instructions for the specific primer). The soil needs to dry well for several hours, and then the putty can be applied. Before this, you need to prepare the soil with an abrasive, but do not wipe it down to the metal, otherwise the meaning of protection is lost.

The manufacturers of automotive putties themselves allow the putty to be applied to “bare” metal during normal body repairs. The metal must be free of rust.

Tips for priming a car before painting. Technology, materials and advice on carrying out work

The primer application stage is included in the list of preparatory work immediately before painting the car. There is nothing complicated in the primer application technology itself, since this is a rough layer; many defects, including smudges and craters, can be solved by grinding and additional application of finishing putty. Having studied the theory and strictly followed the step-by-step instructions, you can easily prime your car before painting with your own hands, using only the tools at hand and purchasing consumables.

Before painting a body or a separate part, the primer performs a number of useful functions that provide a high-quality finish.

First, phosphate primer serves to prevent and remove rust from the metal surface.

Secondly, the main layer of primer levels the plane, filling small irregularities, and provides good protection of the surface from the effects of water and mechanical factors.

Thirdly, it increases the adhesion of paint to metal as an intermediate layer.

In addition, there are special primers for wheel arches that can withstand quite severe mechanical stress and prevent damage to the paint layer and subsequent corrosion of the metal.

Before applying a primer to a car, the preparation steps preceding it are also important.

The main steps include grinding and cleaning the surface. This includes not only cleaning up rust and chips with scratches, but also removing swollen and chipped layers of old paintwork.

Next, the surface is degreased and putty is applied in places where it is required. Usually these are scratches, chips, dents that were previously straightened, but there are minor irregularities. Be sure to wait for the putty to dry completely, since some types of putty absorb moisture well and are able to retain it inside, forming pockets of corrosion. The dried putty is sanded and degreased with white spirit, and then wiped with a dry lint-free cloth.

Primer technology

Now let's take a closer look at this stage of work. First of all, you need to prepare the work area. If this is a garage, then it is desirable that it be clean, well lit, warm and have ventilation. This way, you can avoid installing additional heating sources in the form of IR heaters or the appearance of dust accumulations on the body.

The next step is to cover all untreated areas of the body where the material may get when applied with a spray gun, and also remove all plastic covers on the parts that will be repainted. Usually they cover everything with a film using masking tape, leaving only those areas of the metal surface to which the primer will be applied.

Related article: Painting a car with liquid rubber - Plasti Dip technology

From materials and tools you will need:

• grinding machine with various replaceable abrasives.
• sandpaper.
• primer, solvent and hardener.
• spray gun and air compressor.

This is a basic set of equipment and consumables.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVs8GqV51a0

The next step is preparing the finished primer composition before painting the car. It is important to strictly follow the proportions indicated by the manufacturer of the material on the packaging. It is advisable to use the hardener and solvent of the same brand so that there are no problems with differences in composition. You can also use 646 as a solvent.

To maintain proportions, you can use measuring containers; do not do everything by eye, especially if you are not an experienced painter. Next, the composition is filtered with special filters offered by manufacturers, otherwise you take gauze, fold it into 3 - 4 layers and run the finished primer composition through it.

This is done to filter out various lumps and debris, which may subsequently clog the spray gun.

In most cases, 2 - 3 layers of primer are applied to the surface of the car body, this is enough to ensure good conditions before applying the main paint.

Many people are interested in the question: “How long does the primer dry before painting?” The answer depends on the type of material used. So, say, if a hardener is used, then a drying period of 10 - 15 minutes is allowed between layers, and the finishing layer is dried for about 18 - 20 hours. Without using a hardener, one layer of material will dry in 24 hours, but this approach is very rarely used, due to a large loss of time for work.

We putty the body no worse than professionals: tips and procedures

Putty can help restore your car's perfect appearance and repair bumps, dents or other surface imperfections. Despite the fact that this material is quite easy to handle and safe, it is important to know how to putty a car correctly. This will help quickly remove the problem and disguise any unevenness. In addition, the putty can act as a base layer before painting the car. So, let’s learn how to carry out restoration putty work on a car with your own hands, based on the instructions and video of the master.

How to degrease metal before painting

Painting a car body or its individual elements takes a lot of time, so drivers want to do it as rarely as possible. But in order for the paint to adhere well to the metal of the car, it is important to approach with all responsibility not only the choice of the painting materials themselves, but also the preparation of the surface. A very important point is to degrease the metal before painting, and in this article we will look at how best to do this.

Why degrease metal before painting?

To prepare the metal and ensure normal adhesion to the paint coating, it is necessary to degrease the metal before applying paint. Adhesion refers to the joining of materials to each other at the molecular level. If there are “foreign” molecules between the molecules of one surface (or substance) and another substance, this will lead to a decrease in the quality of their attachment to each other.

Without delving into the chemical processes of applying paint, it is worth saying that various oily residues, dust, debris, etc. are what will prevent the paint from properly adhering to the surface on which it is applied. For a car, which is not a static object and is often in motion, it is important that the paint is attached to the surface as firmly as possible, otherwise it will fall off due to strong vibrations or mechanical impact from the environment.

How to degrease metal before painting

The main thing you need to take care of when degreasing is the complete removal of fatty elements from the surface that is intended for painting. All kinds of oil contaminants that are not visible at first glance, but are actually present on the surface, can act as fatty elements.

There are many different formulations that can remove fatty elements from the surface. The most effective among them are:

• Kerosene or products based on it;
• White Spirit;
• Licensed nitro-based solvents;
• Degreasers made with complex alcohols.

Please note: There is a common misconception that gasoline is a good degreaser. In fact, it is better not to use it when it comes to painting car parts. This is due to the fact that gasoline contains quite a lot of oil elements. If the gasoline is not of the highest quality, it will create an additional oil film on the metal that is not visible, but when applying paint it will prevent it from adhering well.

Almost every metal element of a car has rust in one form or another. Before degreasing the surface, you need to clean the metal, remove any dust that has formed from it and treat it with a product based on orthophosphoric acid, which can combat iron oxides (corrosion).

Please note: In automotive stores, phosphoric acid-based chemicals are most often referred to as rust converters.

After the surface has been treated with a composition based on orthophosphoric acid, the selected degreaser itself should be applied. Solvents are fairly volatile compounds, so immediately after applying them with a rag, you can begin painting (or applying primer). It is important to remember that you can only work with solvents in a well-ventilated area, since such products are highly toxic. It is also recommended to use protective gloves and a respirator when working with solvents.

Important: If you are doing local painting of a small piece of painted surface, do not use nitro-based solvents. If they come into contact with the applied paint, they will cause it to corrode. In such situations, it is better to give preference to white spirit or a solvent based on complex alcohol compounds.

Tools and materials for work

Before you carry out repairs yourself and fill up uneven areas, you should carry out preparatory work. They include the acquisition of the necessary material, the preparation of tools and the preparation of the site itself that requires restoration.

To carry out puttying work you will need the following materials and tools:

To fill an uneven surface or dent, you need to follow several steps. Moreover, it is important to approach each of them responsibly, since the final result will depend on the quality of the work, and the slightest mistake will cause a new repair.

How to prepare a car for painting?

Hello, dear Masters, who are afraid of business! One day, while waiting for your beloved wife near the store, you suddenly pay attention to the condition of the paintwork of your car and briefly think that it wouldn’t hurt to touch it up. After some time, the thought of needing to touch up your car comes back to you when you see your neighbor in the garage driving out in his freshly painted, and therefore seemingly new, car. And you finally decide that you need to paint your car.

Correcting body defects and cleaning it from rust

The second question is how to paint a car, partially or completely. This determines how to prepare the car for painting, i.e. what equipment is needed, how much material and, accordingly, money is needed. As a result, the decision was made, and it was made in favor of full painting. Then we begin preparing the car for painting.

Preparation for painting a car can be divided into several stages. Our example is one of many options on how to prepare a car for painting, and in no case is it a dogma or the ultimate truth. Option.

Troubleshooting . Wash the car thoroughly. Assessing the condition of the car will give you an objective answer to the question: partial or complete painting is needed. And when inspecting the car, do not try to deceive yourself or reassure yourself.

Surface preparation

First, you should level the dent, making sure that the surface does not bend outward. After this, the area that requires restoration must be cleaned of dirt and dust deposits. This can be done with plain water or with a special wipe, which also removes any remaining paint or polishing paste. To remove paint from a car body, you can use a sanding wheel.

The washed body is left for some time. To speed up the drying process of the surface, auto repair shops use blow guns; when doing DIY repairs, you can use a regular household hairdryer.

A clean and dry area should be wiped with a degreasing solvent. This will help the putty stick well to the surface and not fall off.

To be absolutely sure, you can wipe the area with solvent several times to completely remove the fat layer from the area being repaired.

The cleaned and degreased surface should be coated with anti-corrosion primer. It will protect the putty area from rust and corrosion.

Differences between primer and putty

The main purpose of the primer is to improve adhesion between applied layers of paint and varnish coating (LPC). In addition, it performs other functions:

• Removes air bubbles from minor defects of the treated surface (scratches, chips invisible to the naked eye).
• Serves as a connecting component for layers that are poorly compatible with each other and can enter into a chemical reaction, subsequently delaminating.
• Protects from external influences - contact with water, air, sand and other substances. Due to the fact that the primer prevents external access to the metal, the formation of corrosion is eliminated.

Putty is a composition that has a plastic form and is intended to fill cavities formed as a result of damage to the element. Due to the peculiarities of the action of primer and putty mixtures, the order of their application differs - first, large defects are eliminated, then the composition is distributed, ensuring reliable adhesion of the paint and the surface being treated.

Priming the car body

Choice of putty

One of the important factors before the putty itself is the choice of material. Depending on the reason for the putty, the types of putty will vary. If you plan to carry out repair work yourself, you should consult with a specialist in the store or watch a video on choosing the appropriate material.

Depending on the nature of the damage, the putty can be used for deep or small dents. Depending on this, it will “sit” on the surface differently.

For a deep dent, you will need two types of putty:

Although there is a universal type suitable for work at the start and finish. You should carefully choose putty and give preference to well-known manufacturers, since after painting, poor-quality material may move away from the surface of the car.

Types of putty

There are two main types of putties that are used to repair various damage:

— starting;

- finishing.

The starting ones are coarse-grained types of putty, which are used to fill large cavities. They provide reliable fixation even when applied in a thick layer. Also included as a starter putty is fiberglass putty. Its structure contains long soft fibers, with which you can fill through holes.

Finishes are fine-grained types that are used to apply the final layers. This putty is placed on top of the starting putty, but it is also used separately when it is necessary to repair small chips and scratches.

Thus, for self-puttying, you need to purchase starting and finishing putty. You should visually evaluate the layer on which it needs to be laid. To do this, you need to measure the depth of the dents. This is necessary in order to choose a suitable starting putty, since its different types are laid in layers of different thicknesses and exceeding this limit is unacceptable. Therefore, when choosing it, pay attention to the information on the packaging to be sure that it will cope with the task.

Putty work

When carrying out restoration work with your own hands, you first need to read the instructions to find out how long the putty will dry, in what proportions to dilute it and how hard it will sit on the surface.

The putty should be mixed with the hardener until it is completely dissolved, and the result should be a homogeneous substance. The mixture is prepared on a metal or plastic surface.

To carry out putty work, you will need a spatula with which the putty will be applied to the prepared surface. The composition is distributed with smooth movements from top to bottom. After applying the first layer, you need to wait 15 minutes, as it tends to “shrink” and another layer may be required. When the work is finished, you need to let the putty dry: this is most often indicated on the packaging. Putty work requires skill, and if you do it yourself, you should not be upset if the result does not result in a perfectly flat surface.

After the putty has dried, a developing coating is applied to the area to be treated. Next you should sand the surface. In auto repair shops, special grinding machines are used for such work. For DIY repairs, you can use sandpaper.

If metal appears during polishing, you should add a new layer of putty, wait a while and repeat the grinding procedure again. The result should be a smooth, even surface, onto which paint will then be applied.

Applying starting putty

Next, you need to prepare a coarse coarse putty according to the instructions on the package. Since it consists of several components, they must be mixed. After mixing, the components will react and obtain the necessary qualities for reliable fixation on the metal.

It is very important to pay attention to the fact that you should not mix everything at once, since the putty hardens very quickly and you may not have time to use it. It loses its elasticity approximately 5 -10 minutes after mixing.

To start, you need to prepare quite a bit. The putty is applied in several layers, and not at once, so if you prepare just a little, then nothing bad will happen and the rest can be applied later. The main thing is to give it the opportunity to dry so that it is securely fixed and can hold the next layer. To do this, you need to pause for 10 - 15 minutes. If a mistake was made during application and the putty has already hardened, then the excess can be sanded off with sandpaper.

Even if the dent that needs to be hidden is very large, you do not need to cover it all up right away, since applying too thick a layer of putty at one time may cause cracks to form.

Puttying must be divided into several stages and worked in thin layers. 3-4 times can completely hide a deep dent.

The breaks between coats should be used to clean the spatula. It is strictly forbidden to work with a dirty tool on which the putty has hardened, as it will leave deep grooves on the fresh layer.

The putty is applied with a soft spatula, which can be purchased at a hardware or painting store. Naturally, even a professional will not be able to apply the putty perfectly right away. Therefore, you need to polish it, removing all excess. This can be done either manually or with a special machine using P220-240 sandpaper.

Sanding produces a lot of harmful dust that should not be inhaled, so you need to take care to protect your respiratory tract with a respirator or bandage.

Tips to help you do everything right

To ensure that restoration activities are carried out efficiently and quickly, you should pay attention to a few small tips:

To check the quality of the work done, you can use developing powder.

It is a black substance that is applied with a sponge to the surface to be treated before sanding. Sandpaper immediately cleans convex places, and where you need to add putty, the powder will remain. This way the overall picture and the places that need to be improved will be clear.

By following simple instructions and watching special videos, you can carry out the putty work yourself. And, despite the apparent complexity, everyone can carry out high-quality car repairs.

Source

Is it possible to apply putty to old paintwork?

It makes sense to putty old paint when there are concerns about the appearance of corrosion a short time after treatment. To improve adhesion, it is recommended to treat the paintwork with sandpaper, making it porous. The putty will subsequently penetrate into these pores and adhere firmly.

Procedure for applying putty to old paintwork:

1. Clean the surface to be treated in problem areas - remove loose paint, bitumen stains, etc.
2. Degrease the body element using a solvent or alcohol.
3. Fill existing defects.

The putty composition can only be applied to paint that is in good condition - has no cracks, chips, or peeling. If there are a large number of defects, it is better to clean the old paintwork down to the metal surface.

How to putty a car correctly

Hello dear readers of the kuzov.info blog!

In this article we will look at how to putty a car correctly and what rules to take into account. Also, this article provides a number of recommendations for the use of automotive putty.

Putty is a two-component product used to fill small imperfections in the body of a car. When the two components are mixed, a heat-generating reaction occurs that changes the chemical properties of the putty and it hardens.

Puttying is used to level out residual surface irregularities of the repaired body part.

Before starting puttying, the repair area must be cleaned down to “bare” metal with P80 abrasive. To do this, you can use an eccentric sander with a suitable grinding wheel. Next, you need to smooth out the sanding marks so that before puttying the surface has a scratch from the P120 abrasive.

To stir the putty, use a non-porous surface and a plastic or metal spatula. Do not use cardboard as a surface to stir putty. The cardboard will absorb some of the putty components. You can use plastic, metal, glass and other non-porous surfaces.

The putty and hardener have different colors. You need to mix the putty with the hardener until you get one color. It is better to mix it by stretching it with a spatula in one direction. If you stir in a circular motion, bubbles may form, which will then appear as defects on the putty surface.

How to prepare a car for painting in a garage?

A rather difficult option for updating the beautiful appearance of your car is painting. This is a complete update of the visual part of the body, as well as the correction of certain operational problems with the metal. Car painting may be required in various situations. It can be partial or complete. The reason for the need to update the paint layer may be a small or major accident with subsequent restoration of the body, as well as wear of the factory paintwork, damage to body parts by corrosion, or massive chips and scratches in the paint. The type of painting and the order of work in this case will completely depend on the reasons for updating the aesthetic component of your car. You can find ways to quickly prepare, but sometimes straightening, puttying and other restoration processes must be carried out before direct preparation for painting.

Updating a car body is not an easy task, so it is often left to specialists. But if you want to save money or personally make sure that the preparation for painting and the actual process of applying new paintwork is carried out efficiently, you can easily do this by carrying out all the processes yourself. By prepping your car for painting, you can both get the best possible recoat application and reduce the longevity of your paint. You need to know a lot about car body repair processes in order to complete all procedures efficiently and without problems.

Preparing the body for painting after severe damage - straightening

Before talking directly about preparing for painting, you should completely level out the uneven parts of the body. Even if the car has not been involved in an accident, significant defects in the metal that should be straightened are quite possible. If we are talking about dents in the body that were made recently, you can try to squeeze them out by removing the decorative trim in the interior. But serious damage can only be leveled with the help of straightening, and it is often difficult to do without special equipment. The straightening process involves performing the following actions:

• returning the metal to its previous position using special mallets with a rubber or wooden working part;
• the use of various rigid plates for complete alignment of the body part;
• the most accurate determination of a high-quality plane without roughness, which will help to apply less putty;
• cleaning the surface after high-quality leveling, bringing the part into ideal shape;
• complete cleansing of the repair site from paint, primer and other coatings, exposure of metal around the damage site or on the entire part;
• performing putty work that will hide the remaining minor defects on the body.

The preparation process involves bringing the body part to the state in which all that remains is to apply a primer and paint the car with high quality. If the straightening of parts is done poorly, you will have to apply a lot of putty material, which will greatly deteriorate the quality of the body and will not allow you to continue normal operation of the car. Often, poor-quality body repairs with a lot of putty are performed before selling the car, but it's time to abandon this mentality. Remember that you are selling a car to a person you are putting at risk.

The puttying process is an important stage in preparation for painting.

An important stage that occurs before painting a car is puttying the damaged areas. To perform this task, you must have certain skills or consult with specialists. Often, such preparation will avoid common problems with putty. Remember that it is not recommended to apply too thick a layer of this material, since in the coming years of operation of the machine a crack will form at the junction of the metal and the putty. The material itself may crack due to lack of ductility. The process for performing putty work is as follows:

• it is necessary to carry out the highest quality leveling of the repaired area, good straightening;
• then you should completely remove all paint and varnish coatings from the place where there are irregularities, and clean the body down to the metal;
• the places where the putty will be applied should be degreased using a regular automotive solvent and a dry, clean rag;
• after this process, it is necessary to apply a layer of base putty with a reserve, wait for it to dry and thoroughly clean it to the required level;
• Next, finishing putty is applied and the final cleaning process for painting is carried out.

Drying automotive putty:

To dry the putty, the temperature in the workshop must be at least 20 degrees.

Putties do not harden at low temperatures. If you add more hardener than required, the excess hardener will not react with the putty, which will worsen the quality of the coating. Thus, it is important to observe the temperature regime and mix the putty with the right amount of hardener.

You can use infrared drying. At the same time, you get an advantage in the speed of hardening of the putty and reducing its further subsidence.

What comes first: primer before putty or vice versa? — ALL ABOUT CAR PAINTING

Active use of a vehicle sooner or later leads to the appearance of various scratches, chips, and full-size dents on its paintwork. If minor defects can still be somehow ignored, then large ones will have to be dealt with for at least two main reasons. Firstly, it is simply unaesthetic, and the more expensive and reputable the car, the more noticeable the defect is. Secondly, for purely practical reasons: absolutely any scratch can expose the surface of the base metal, which over time will cause its corrosion and destruction.

The solution to the problem is car painting. But before this, the corresponding surfaces must be carefully processed and prepared using primer and putty to prevent damage to the integrity of the coating. Here, novice painters (or those car enthusiasts who are trying to master this process on their own) often have a question: is a primer applied under the putty or vice versa?

Difference between primer and putty

Such questions arise because novice craftsmen do not fully understand (or do not understand at all) how one material differs from another, and also do not distinguish between their role in the process of creating a new or repairing damaged paintwork on a car. Let's start with the primer, since it is a mandatory step in painting the body parts of the car.

The main task of the soil is to create reliable adhesion between the coating and the base metal. In addition, his tasks include:

1. Pore ​​filling. If you examine any smooth-looking surface through a microscope, it turns out that it may contain a lot of pores. There is no escape from this, since this is the structure of the surface layers of any material (including metal). Accordingly, air will accumulate in the pores, which prevents reliable adhesion of the paint and the surface.
2. Separation of conflicting coverages. Sometimes the painting process requires the application of several layers with different properties, which can cause rejection due to lack of adhesion (adhesion).
3. Anti-corrosion protection. Creating a protective barrier on the metal surface that prevents contact with air or water.

Automotive putty in its finished form is a plastic mass used to correct existing surface defects. Obviously, the cavities of cracks, chips or dents must be filled first, otherwise no painting can guarantee an acceptable result. It will, of course, add color, but visible unevenness will remain.

So, no primer is applied under the putty. The opposite happens: first, the surface is puttied to eliminate the visible defect, and only then primed to provide a reliable base for the paintwork.

Which putty is better and how to use it

Since we have already understood a little about how one component differs from another, it would not be amiss to consider the issue of their selection and practical application. Automotive putty is selected depending on the existing situation regarding the active base substance.

Before applying the main mass, the surface must be thoroughly treated. This process includes sanding, removing old coating, rust, dust and degreasing. Next, an anti-corrosion primer and putty can be applied, which will have an additional adhesion effect. This is perhaps the only case when the base is created under putty. The main mass is applied in 2–3 layers with a total thickness of up to 3 mm. It is not recommended to do more, since large internal stresses arise in the putty, and it can simply crack.

Allow 20 minutes to dry before applying the next coat.

Selecting and applying a primer

When the surface geometry has been completely recreated, you can begin to treat with primer, which will ensure reliable adhesion of the paint layer. Before this, a few words have already been said about the properties of the primer, which mainly determine its classification. Let's consider its types in more detail.

1. Epoxy. This is a liquid mixture containing chromium plating or inert substances. Used to counteract moisture and other aggressive compounds. Such primers (for example, GF21, FL-OZK) do not require finishing sanding. Except for cases where the paintwork has visible defects (drips).
2. Primer. This is the so-called primary primer, or leveler. It is used for anti-corrosion treatment (can be applied before puttying) and improving adhesion.
3. Sealant. This is the finishing layer of primer, which is designed to protect it and deactivate the solvent properties of the paint.

To apply the primer, you can use paint guns or spray guns, in which liquid is sprayed under a pressure of at least 2 atmospheres. Before doing this, it is recommended to clean the surface without fail and apply anti-silicone to degrease. Primary primers are usually applied in 2 thin layers, between which a pause of up to one and a half hours of drying is required. After this, secondary soil is applied 3 layers thick. Before applying the next layer, wait up to 10 minutes to allow the liquid to dry and become matte.

The process of painting car body elements is a rather painstaking task, which must necessarily combine such steps as primer and putty. The quality of all work done to prepare the car for painting largely depends on their choice, the correct order of their application and the correct combination.

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Source: https://krasymavto.ru/kuzovnye-raboty/remont/gruntovka-pered-shpaklevkoj.html

Can putty be applied to paint?

What can happen?

What can happen if you apply putty to a repainted surface? Here we can give an example of a house on a foundation. A house is only as strong and good as its foundation. If the technology is violated, adhesion problems may arise.

Experts from 3M believe that putty should not be applied to sanded paint. This can cause contouring and further development of repair marks (subsidence). The putty's chemicals may react with the paint layers. This may cause the putty to lift up along with the paint.

What are the benefits of applying putty to paint?

When applying putty to factory paint, you get an advantage in speed of repair. There is no need to remove layers of paint and primer. This speeds up repairs.

If applied to factory paint, you need to carefully prepare it by sanding it with p80 - p180 abrasive.

When applying putty to paint, there is no guarantee that further adhesion problems will not occur.

Putty rules:

• The putty should be applied to a cleaned and degreased surface.
• It is necessary to dose the required amount of putty and hardener for a specific putty. This skill is developed through experience. Another article about applying putty to cars shows how to properly dose putty with hardener. You can also use electronic scales. Excessive amount of hardener does not speed up the curing reaction, but may cause a defect in the future.
• Use a clean spatula. Do not use the same spatula that was used to mix the putty with the hardener. Particles of putty not mixed with the hardener on it can cause defects to appear on the repair surface when painting.
• If you need to fill a large defect with putty, then instead of one thick one it is better to apply several thin layers. The thick layer is not dense and contains many air bubbles.
• In the interval from 15 minutes to 1 hour, you can apply the next layer without preliminary sanding.
• When filling a large area, you need to apply the putty with a medium spatula and level it with a wide, large spatula.

Applying automotive putty to the ground

The only primer on which it is recommended to apply putty is epoxy. It is recommended to do this if the car has been standing for a long time, stripped to bare metal. This is usually done during restoration work. Even indoors, with prolonged interaction with air, “bare” metal oxidizes. Epoxy primer provides good anti-corrosion protection.

If the repair is carried out in a short time, then it is not necessary to apply epoxy primer. It is necessary, as described above, to prepare the damaged surface, stripping it down to bare metal, degreasing and puttying.

Is it possible to paint a car without primer?

You can paint a car without a primer, but nothing good will come of it. The adhesive (providing adhesion) properties of such a compound leave much to be desired: the coating will quickly peel off. Then the body will rust and will have to be painted again - this time with a primer.

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Finishing layer of automotive putty

The finishing coat is applied to the entire repair area. This is a thin layer of putty. You can add some polymer from a fiberglass repair kit to the putty. Approximately the same amount is added as the hardener from the tube. Next, add putty hardener and stir. The resulting putty is easily applied in a thin layer and is well leveled. When curing, a slightly sticky layer may form on top of the putty surface. You can remove it with a solvent and start sanding.

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Putty for metal surfaces for outdoor use

The composition contains organic resins and mineral fillers.

What are its features

The product is intended for filling defects on metal surfaces.

Putty (for metal) has a number of advantages:

• forms a waterproof connection;
• dries quickly (in about 30 minutes).
• Easily applied to cracks and adheres reliably.

To obtain the optimal effect, putty is applied to the surface in several thin layers. Before application, degrease the base, dry it, and clean it of dust and other particles that can reduce the quality of gluing.

Why putty metal?

Any scratch or dent weakens the structure of the paintwork. In such places, under the influence of unfavorable weather conditions (for example, low temperature, humidity, etc.), corrosion may develop. Therefore, as soon as a defect appears, the base should be treated immediately.

ishachok › Blog › Do-it-yourself car putty: important points and rules

The automotive market is full of all kinds of products for body repair, including: various epoxy and polyester 2-component putties, that is, those that are used with a hardener. In order to dry, polyester putties require 15-20 minutes, after which they can be safely sanded; as for epoxy putties with a hardener, they require about half an hour to dry and a temperature of +20°.

Specialists for car putty prefer polyester two-component putties; they are also called “high-speed.”

So, car putty: preparation for priming and painting.

Let's start with the fact that the surface is carefully prepared and cleaned from corrosion, matted and prepared for puttying. Before you begin, you need to know the main rule - the thickness of the putty layer should be no more than 2-3 mm; if it is necessary to apply a thicker layer, it is better to contact a straightener or correct the body defects yourself. A thick layer is associated with an inevitable crack, which will occur due to large internal stresses. Make sure the previous one is completely dry before applying each new coat.

Car putty is performed using a spatula at an angle of 30°-40° to the surface, with movements reminiscent of indentation, rubbing the mixture onto the surface. When filling a scratch, remember to bore it out. The V-shaped, sharp-edged scratch will not be filled completely, no matter how hard you try, and eventually, after some time, an unsightly subsidence will become visible on the freshly painted body. Before putting putty on the car, give the scratch a semicircular shape, see the picture below.

Putty for deep scratches.

Some novice craftsmen try to achieve 100% filling of deep depressions and scratches on the body the first time, which is extremely undesirable and harmful to the body!

Attention! It should be understood that in this case, the more thin layers (passes) there are, the lower the internal stress in the hardened putty will be in the future, therefore, the likelihood of swelling or failure will be minimal.

Do-it-yourself car putty: tools and consumables.

Set of spatulas. Two types of two-component putty: main and finishing. Sandpaper number: P120, P180, P220-240. Planer with clamps for sandpaper, possibly with Velcro. Developing powder. White Spirit, or better yet, an anti-silicone degreaser. Sheaf machine with replaceable abrasive wheels of different numbers from P180 to P400. Scotch. Maroon for regular paint and gray for metallic paint. Mix the putty.

In order to dilute the putty, it is better to take not one, but two spatulas - a large and a small one. Don’t use a lot of the putty itself (basic), so you don’t have to throw it away later, add a pink hardener from a tube in a ratio of 1:20. Then start kneading thoroughly, using a small spatula, stir until the pink stripes disappear and a homogeneous mass is formed.

Now, as for application, that is, how to putty a car.

1. Apply the first layer of putty as carefully as possible using a spatula, this is necessary so that the mixture can fill in uneven surfaces and scratches. 2. Let the first layer dry; if the room is cool, use a household hair dryer or heater.

Important! When drying, observe the temperature regime; overheating is extremely undesirable; check the temperature with your hand between the drying surface and the heater. Place your hand, if your hand does not tolerate it, then the temperature is too high, the putty may rise, but we do not need this.

3. Apply the second, as well as the third and all subsequent layers in the same way, until the surface is leveled to the thickness you need, that is, when the putty surface is flush with the painted surface, the putty can protrude slightly.

Sanding putty - 70% success!

There is an opinion that in painting work the grinding process decides a lot; incorrect execution or a careless attitude towards this stage can nullify all your efforts.

Sanding using developing powder requires the use of a plane if you have to sand the roof or hood, that is, a large, flat surface. Attach R120 sandpaper to the planer and, pressing lightly, begin sanding. It is necessary to rub until abrasions begin to appear; putty can be added if necessary. In general, it is quite difficult to explain in words how and how much to grind, here you need to feel it, and feel it with your palm. Close your eyes and run your fingers over the surface; if you don’t feel any transitions or joints to the touch, the surface is truly smooth. Eyes, with all their perfection, can often deceive, but touch works with 99% accuracy. You can also see the unevenness by applying a metal ruler; the uneven surface under the edge of the ruler is very clearly visible.

If unevenness is detected, it is necessary to either work with a plane, or, on the contrary, add putty. For this, developing rubbing is often used, which is the most common black powder. It is applied to the surface and applied with light movements using a sponge (foam sponge).

After the developing powder is applied to the putty, the surface is processed again with a plane. The point is, when wiping off the top layer of putty with developing powder, keep track of uneven places, since the smooth surface of the plane will not fit into the depressions, and they will remain dark, and the same with bulges; if there are any, the plane will grind them off, and the erased powder will you can see how much you took and where.

When working with a plane or sander, be extremely careful not to remove excess, keep in mind that putty is sanded easier and faster than iron, as a result the surface may become uneven and wavy.

As the surface is leveled, it will be necessary to add less and less putty, at the same time you will have to reduce the grain of the abrasive “sandpaper”, from a coarser one go down to a finer one P120 → P180 → P240. This alternation will reduce the abrasive risk left by coarser abrasives.

Important note! Be sure to take into account the “100 units” rule, that is, when grinding, you cannot jump over more than 100 units.

For example: after working with P80 sanding paper, you cannot immediately jump to P180, after P80 take 120-150, and only after that P180.

As you approach the finish, switch to the “finishing” putty; this more plastic, two-component putty with fine grain is also diluted with a hardener. It is sanded using P220-240 sanding paper. At the finishing stage, you should use an orbital sander with abrasive wheels on a sticky base. A sander allows you to sand the scratch much faster and more efficiently. That's all, the puttying of the car is complete, all that remains is to prime and paint.

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Applying finishing putty

The starting putty, which is used at the initial stage, adheres well to the metal, but has large grains, resulting in a rough surface. When all deep dents are completely eliminated, it is time to apply the finishing putty.

It is applied in a thin layer on top of the starting one. After drying, it should be sanded. The final sanding is more similar to polishing, using 1000-grit or finer sandpaper. It is strictly forbidden to use paper with large grains, as scratches from it remain noticeable. This is a very delicate and time-consuming job, and it is better to avoid machine sanding, since you can easily make a mistake and have to apply another layer.

Sanding will be much easier if the sandpaper is periodically washed in water. But you should carefully read the instructions for the putty and make sure there are no contraindications.

Rules for using putties.

Attention! It is possible to apply putty directly to acidic primers, one-component acrylic and nitro primers (i.e. those sold in cans and do not require a hardener), but this is a bad idea - everything will fall off!

Preparing the surface for putty (true for all putties):

• The surface to be puttyed must be sanded dry, P80 - P120 - P180 and degreased with a remover to remove silicone;
• Degrease the steel surface, sand it dry using the P80 - P120 method and degrease again;
• Degrease the aluminum surface, matt it with a special fiber (e.g. Scotch Brite Fine, Scotch Brite Very Fine) and degrease again;
• Degrease the primer, sand it dry using the P220 - P280 method and degrease again;
• Degrease the old varnish coating, sand it dry using the P220 - P280 method and degrease again.

Mixing proportions:

Uni putty - 100 parts by weight, Hardener - 2 to 3 parts by weight. Those. 3% hardener, 97% putty.

Application time from the moment of mixing with the hardener: From 4 to 6 minutes. at 20°C.

Drying time: 20 to 30 min. at 20°C.

Drying time can be shortened by heating for 10 minutes. at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

Terms of use.

Mix the components until a homogeneous mass is obtained, observing the mixing proportions of the hardener. For this purpose, it is recommended to use putty dispensers; with experience, this can be done by eye. The putty should be applied with spatulas, applying a layer up to 5 mm thick. Minimum application temperature +10°C.

Preparing and mixing putty

You can prepare the putty on a piece of organic glass or purchase a special “easel” for mixing the putty. Basically, many people use two spatulas, one large and the other smaller. Clean the tool immediately after finishing work, before the residue has hardened. After the putty has cured, it is necessary to sand the surface to remove the smallest irregularities. The spatula can also be cleaned with a universal solvent. During putty storage, solid particles settle and the resin forms a film. Therefore, before use, it should be thoroughly mixed to ensure uniform mixing of the resin and solid filler. Otherwise, it is impossible to achieve the desired ratio when adding a hardener, since the filler will not participate in the reaction. To remove the putty from the container, use only a clean tool. Any putty or hardener left on the tool will react with the contents of the container, causing the remaining putty to become unusable.

The putty is applied to the surface using spatulas. Stores sell special sets of spatulas, made of thin steel or stainless steel. There are also plastic and rubber spatulas, which are very convenient to use in certain situations. To putty large and flat areas, such as door panels, you can use a construction façade spatula for finishing work, and it is also suitable as a ruler for controlling the shape of the sanded surface. Polyester putty consists of two components that must be mixed immediately before use: resin and hardener (catalyst). The hardener should be added in the proportion specified by the manufacturer; usually from 2 to 3 g per 100 g of putty (2...3 percent by weight). The putty and red hardener should be mixed with a spatula until no traces of red hardener are visible. The ability to correctly dose hardener comes with experience. “Putty” should be applied thinly. With a thick layer, it is impossible to obtain a high-quality coating. The prepared automotive putty should be used within 5 to 10 minutes. The putty layer should be applied quickly and accurately. Do not mix putties more than required. It loses the qualities necessary to obtain a high-quality layer.

• Too little hardener (catalyst). The putty does not cure in the required time. Sanding is difficult, it gets into lumps, scratches and risks occur.
• Too much hardener (catalyst). This “putty” does not harden faster. The active hardener remains in it, which reacts with the resin and pigments of the filler and paint. The result is defects: uneven coloring, the formation of spots and obvious contours of painted areas.

How to cook (dilute and mix)

Instructions indicating how much hardener to add to the putty are always indicated on the packaging. Often the recommended value is no more than 2-3%. How long the putty will polymerize will depend on the temperature at which the repair is carried out. It is better to use less hardener than to use too much. In the first case, it will take longer to dry, but in the second, you not only risk not having time to putty the part before the composition hardens, but also reduce the strength of the repair composition. Excessive amounts of hardener will impair adhesion. The material must be stirred until the color is uniform. This also needs to be done correctly so as not to air the putty.

Consumption per 1 m2

Depending on the type of putty and the material it is based on, the consumption for a specific area varies significantly. If a finishing agent is used to level out uneven surfaces of a car, the layer is small, and therefore a small amount of putty is required.

What surfaces should you not apply putty to?

The use of polyester putties is not recommended when priming with a two-component acid-curing material or a one-component primer. These products are considered chemically incompatible.

It is also unacceptable to use polymer compounds for thermoplastic surfaces.

Fiberglass putty.

FIBER - putty with the addition of fiberglass fibers. Thanks to fiberglass, it has high mechanical strength, but has a rather average ability to fill irregularities and holes. Those. Micropores cannot be covered with this putty. This putty is intended for large surfaces, for initial application, to add rigidity. When applied, pores will remain in it, and it must be covered with a soft or universal putty.

Fiberglass putty can be used on the following types of surfaces:

• polyester putties,
• aluminum,
• steel,
• two-component acrylic primers,
• old varnish coatings.

The following can be applied to putty with fiberglass: universal putty, finishing polyester putty, polyester putty applied by spraying, acrylic primers.

Universal putty.

Basic universal putty. Moderately hard and with little elasticity, recommended for fur. processing, for use on small surfaces. It has very good adhesion to various types of substrates, but is not recommended for use on galvanized steel.

Can be used on the following types of surfaces:

• polyester laminates,
• steel,
• aluminum,
• two-component acrylic primers,
• old varnish coatings.

The following can be applied to the universal putty: Polyester finishing putty, polyester putty applied by spraying, acrylic primers.

Attention - if you fill a large surface (hood or roof) with universal putty, with a high degree of probability, after a few months, due to mechanical bending or temperature changes, the putty will crack!

If you need to putty the surface, use putty with aluminum filler.

Filling putties

Filling (coarse) car putties are used to quickly fill deep damage - dents or holes in the car body.

Most often, such compositions have a coarse-grained structure. Therefore, to create a smooth, non-porous coating, after application, additional leveling of the surface using finishing materials is required.

Reinforced with aluminum powder (Alu, Aluminum).

The use of metallized compounds is relevant for places with increased vibration or heating - hoods, roofs.

Due to its fine-grained structure, aluminum putty is suitable for sealing minor damage and does not lead to chipping on the boundary line of putty.

In addition, aluminum putty for car repairs withstands repeated use at high temperatures without forming cracks or peeling.

Important advantages of aluminum putty over other materials are minimal shrinkage and a long polymerization period, which gives time for treating large surfaces.

Reinforced with carbon fiber filler (Carbon)

Durable but flexible carbon putty is ideal for leveling surfaces subject to regular vibration. The use of lightweight carbon fiber allows you to apply any number of layers of material. Can be used for car plastic.

The disadvantage of carbon putty is its poor resistance to impacts.

Finishing (Fein, Finish)

Finishing compounds are used to finish coatings made of coarse-grained materials. The characteristic features of finishing putties are their creamy consistency and fine-grained structure. Such compositions are easy to apply and lend themselves well to sanding, forming a flat, smooth and elastic surface.

Liquid (Spray)

The use of liquid putty for car repairs is appropriate when treating damage of any size and depth. Typically the material is used for finishing large surfaces.

To evenly apply liquid car putty, use a special gun. The liquid from the bottle is filled into the container with which the instrument is equipped and the composition is applied to the surface using a multi-layer spray method.

The material has a long hardening time - up to two hours. After drying, the coating needs to be sanded.

Every master who repairs a car with his own hands always has several types of putty materials in stock. The minimum set of necessary compositions for repairs includes filler, finishing and plastic putty.

One-component acrylic putty

Acrylic one-component finishing putty. It can be coated with any acrylic and base varnishes, so its main purpose is to fill very small scratches and surface irregularities immediately before varnishing, so it should be applied only in thin layers and treated with the same paper as acrylic primers.