Mounting for radiators on drywall takra.ru

MesterulManole
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MesterulManole October 28, 2016Specialization: many years of experience in finishing works of residential and office premises, summer houses, country cottages, etc. Hobby: cycling in all its forms

Aluminum battery on drywall - read on to learn how to hang it

Greetings. This time you will learn how to attach heavy objects to drywall. I hope the topic of the article will be of interest to many and there is a good reason for this. Finishing building surfaces with plasterboard is becoming increasingly widespread.

At the same time, you most likely will not be able to secure heavy objects to such a finish using traditional methods. So, how to fix certain objects on the surface of a sheathed gypsum board so that the result is durable and looks neat?

Fastening heavy objects to drywall: an overview of fasteners and how to use them

Aluminum battery on drywall - read on to learn how to hang it

A few words about installation difficulties

What problems do installers face when they have to attach heavy objects to a plasterboard wall ?

GKL strength table in accordance with sheet thickness

Plasterboard with a sheet thickness of no more than 12 mm is traditionally used for wall cladding. This material is quite durable and resistant to mechanical stress. However, installing a boiler or heating radiator, the weight of which when filled with water is more than 100 kg, is fraught with the risk that the fasteners will tear out of the casing.

By the way, with such an elegant stand, the installation of heating radiators will be more effective, since it will be possible to remove part of the load from the wall mounting

The problem is obvious, but there are simple and effective ways to solve it. If you need to hang something heavy on the wall, you can do it as follows:

Using special fasteners and supports installed under the fixed object;
By pre-installing mortgages for wall cladding;
Through the combined installation of mortgages and the use of special fastening hardware.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of the listed methods?

The advantage of mounting on fasteners without installing mortgages is that the method can be applied to an already used wall. That is, if there is no immediate renovation of the room and there is no desire to dismantle the wall, this is the best option.

Among the disadvantages of the solution, I note that fastenings that are designed for heavy loads are rarely found on sale and their price is high. Well, of course, you need to know what is suitable in a particular case and what is not suitable.

On the wall you can see embedded boards for the heating radiator, which will then be covered with gypsum board sheets

Installing mortgages under the cladding is the best solution if you have to install heavy objects weighing more than 50 kg. In fact, in this case, the fastening is carried out not on drywall, but on mortgages, which, in turn, are rigidly fixed to the rough wall.

The disadvantage of this solution is that it cannot be used on walls that are already in use. That is, the mortgages need to be installed under the sheathing, which is only possible before installing the gypsum boards.

The combined option is used in cases where the dimensions of the embedded parts under the casing partially do not correspond to the location of the hinges on the mounted equipment.

Let's consider the listed methods and find out how to hang a battery on drywall or how to install other equally heavy objects.

Installation of mortgages for fastening heavy objects on gypsum boards

How to install mortgages under gypsum boards with your own hands? The installation instructions are as follows:

Location of the embeds in the wall, where the boiler will be installed

Immediately after assembling the supporting frame, we determine the installation location of the item whose installation is planned;
Along the width of the gap between the profiles in the sheathing, bars are cut with a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the guides;

Mortgages before sheathing with plasterboard

Using dowel nails or anchor bolts, the bars are attached to the wall or to the profile, as in the photo;
On the sides we attach the bars to the profile with self-tapping screws;
Next, we sew up the frame with gypsum board sheets;

Fastening hardware for mounting a boiler in embedded parts

After finishing the walls, we fasten the heavy object with massive screws, which will be firmly held in the thickness of the fixed bars.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that during installation you will have to photograph the installed bars from different angles. This must be done so that when performing the subsequent installation of attachments, you will hit the bars and not the void.

The question is, why do you need mortgages if you can immediately screw long screws into the wall? There is a reason - if you hang a boiler or heating radiator on screws without placing mortgages under the wall cladding, the load on the fastening elements will be high. As a result, over time, either the fasteners become deformed, or the wall on which the installation was performed becomes unusable.

Fastening elements for installation without preliminary installation of embedded parts

Many people believe that it is impossible to simply hang anything on partitions and walls made of gypsum plasterboard, using certain types of fastening hardware. In fact, this is not so, you just need to choose the right fasteners, the maximum load of which will correspond to the weight of the equipment that you decide to hang.

Let's look at the list of fasteners and methods of their use.

Fastening hardware specially designed for use on plasterboard partitions and walls

Among the things that can be purchased, I note the following:

Self-tapping screw for metal-to-metal plasterboard;
Butterfly dowel with self-tapping screw;
Screw dowel with self-tapping screw;
Dowel “umbrella” with a bolt;
Hartmut dowel from Knauf with bolt.

Screwing in a regular self-tapping screw for gypsum boards

An ordinary self-tapping screw for plasterboard, with which the sheets are fixed to the profile, can withstand long-term loads weighing up to 3 kg. That is, by screwing such a screw into the wall, you can hang a mirror, picture or other similar objects on it. If you tighten several screws and hang an item not on one, but on several loops, you can achieve higher installation strength.

The so-called “butterfly” from the inside of plasterboard

Butterfly dowel for hollow structures - can withstand weight up to 10 kg with single-layer wall cladding. This is an excellent solution for mounting various elements of the surroundings, starting with a mirror and ending with small shelves.

Accordingly, if you hang an object not on one dowel, but on several spaced dowels, the resistance of the fastener to weight loads will be increased.

Screwing in the screw dowel without the need for pre-drilling holes

Screw dowel with self-tapping screw - screws into the slab without the need for drilling holes. When mounted on a single-layer cladding, it can withstand a little more than 6 kg of weight load; when mounted on a double cladding, each mount can withstand a load of up to 15 kg.

The spacer part of the so-called “umbrella” from the inside of plasterboard structures

“Umbrella” dowel – a metal version of the “butterfly” dowel consists of a bolt and a metal spacer, which, when the bolt is screwed in, opens like an umbrella. When the fastening hardware is installed correctly, the umbrella dowel can withstand up to 35 kg of weight load on each fastener. With an increase in the number of fastenings, the load on the wall can be increased.

This is what the power element of the Hartmut dowel looks like, due to which fastening hardware is held on vertical structures

The Hartmut dowel from Knauf, when installed on a single-layer sheathing, can withstand up to 35 kg of long-term load. As the number of fastening hardware used increases, the permissible load also increases.

Using such fastenings, you can hang aluminum and bimetallic radiators on drywall without the use of floor stands

The installation instructions for such a dowel are as follows:

A hole with a diameter of 13 mm is drilled;
A dowel with a folded spacer is inserted into the hole;
The dowel is pulled back so that the spacer part from the inside is pressed against the sheathing;
We secure the plastic part on the outside of the casing with a fastener and break off the excess;
We screw in a bolt on which you can attach hanging loops or other hardware adapted for mounting a particular item.

To ensure that the installation of a cast iron heating radiator on drywall can be done without mortgages, we use Hartmut fasteners. But there is one condition: installation of a structure with a nominal weight of over 100 kg is allowed only on double or triple wall cladding.

Now we know that attaching heating radiators to a plasterboard wall, as well as installing other heavy objects, is not impossible. I hope that as a result of independently installing heavy objects on plasterboard sheathing, you will receive high-quality and reliable fastening. To make the task easier, I recommend watching the video in this article.

Conclusion

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October 28, 2016

Plasterboard systems, Fasteners, hardware, meshes and membranes

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Attaching a radiator to drywall

Rarely do any repairs or finishing work take place without the use of plasterboard systems. Their use makes it possible not to bother with leveling the walls with plasterboard and significantly speeds up the work. However, despite their versatility, in some cases their installation creates additional difficulties. Attaching a radiator to drywall is one of the most striking examples of such difficulties.

An example of a mounted radiator on drywall Return to contents

Full contents of the material

Plasterboard radiator box

Many people, during repairs, try to cover the battery with drywall. This is primarily due to the unaesthetic appearance of the batteries. It is very difficult to come up with and implement a successful design solution that could make the part of the room in which this element is located attractive. That is why owners are increasingly deciding to cover the radiator with plasterboard. This solution obscures the radiator from view and does not harm the heating system in any way.

Compliance with engineering standards and a list of necessary tools

Drywall is capable of withstanding colossal longitudinal loads, but it is not adapted to lateral forces. The slightest pressure can lead to disruption of the integrity of the sheet, its deformation and the appearance of cracks.

To avoid such misunderstandings, try not to overload plasterboard partitions, and, if necessary, reinforce the structure. Based on this, the installation of heating system elements should be thought out at the stage of creating the project, and not after the design has been formed.

In practice, not everyone thinks in advance about exactly how the heating radiator will be mounted. The method of fixing heating devices varies depending on their design, connection method and total weight.

Option for placing a radiator in a plasterboard niche

A classic cast iron or steel battery requires the creation of a system of suspensions that will take on the entire weight of the system. Modern bimetallic models with a plastic supply can easily be fixed on top of a plasterboard base. However, for greater reliability, it is better to use special brackets that are screwed into the main wall. Installing a heating radiator is a rather difficult task, for which you will need the following tools:

Using these tools you can install the radiator.

At the same time, the main difficulty of installation work is not the installation process itself, but the installation of communications, filling the system and de-airing it. These tasks take the most time and require a lot of effort. In addition, certain requirements are put forward for the installed battery, the fulfillment of which affects its functionality. They look like this:

the distance to the windowsill should be at least 6–10 cm;
the height from the floor should be at least 10–15 cm;
the distance from the wall should be at least 2–3 cm;
The radiator should be as open as possible on both sides.

Compliance with such requirements makes it possible not only to increase the temperature in the room, but also to reduce heating costs. However, only those who have individual heating or have a heat meter installed in their apartment will be able to experience similar benefits.

Radiator installation: step-by-step sequence of actions

Let's consider the process of installing a heating element using the example of a bimetallic radiator consisting of 5 sections. Depending on the thickness of the metal, the weight of the battery varies between 7.5–10 kg. With the correct arrangement of fasteners, sheets of drywall are quite capable of supporting such weight. However, it is better not to risk it and immediately install it on brackets mounted into the main wall.

Step-by-step installation of the bracket on the radiator

Drawing with dimensions of the bracket for mounting the radiator

At the same time, depending on the material of the initial surface, the structure of the work may undergo minor changes. In this case, the order of fixing the radiator takes the following form:

First, we mark the future fasteners. We take a tape measure and measure the required distances, after which we apply the corresponding marks to the drywall (for greater accuracy, they can be checked using a building level).
If the initial wall is made of concrete, then a dowel will be needed to secure the bracket. In this case, its diameter must correspond to the bracket. In addition, special pobedit drills are used for concrete walls. It will be screwed into a wooden base without the use of additional elements using an ordinary drill (for wood or metal).
We connect the drill and screw the drill into it, and then install it at the marking point. We drill through the drywall at low speeds and reach the wall. In our case, it consists of concrete. Therefore, we turn on full speed and press on the drill. The drill should enter the wall 1–2 cm longer than the length of the dowel.
We put a dowel on the drill, thread it through the hole in the drywall and insert it all the way into the wall. You should not press too hard on the drill, as the dowel will screw onto the drill and come out with it.

Scheme for attaching dowels to drywall

The simplest bracket is L-shaped with a thread on one side. We insert the thread into the hole and begin to slowly screw in the bracket clockwise. As you tighten it, adjust the length of the fastener.

The fasteners are completely ready and can be used for their intended purpose. However, to hang a heating radiator weighing 7.5–10 kg, at least two such brackets are needed, and if metal pipes will be connected to it, then it is better to make four of them.

Existing bracket options for radiator mounting

An example of installing a heating radiator in a niche made of profiles

The second and all subsequent fasteners are installed in a similar way, and after installation, all elements are compared with each other.
Most batteries are hinged and have special holes into which fasteners are threaded. Therefore, we hang the radiator on the brackets and once again check its location with the level, which should be perfectly level.

General features of battery installation

Drywall is one of the most popular materials used in construction for interior decoration. Drywall sheets are used to level walls, ceilings, and create decorative structures (like fireplaces). Attaching heating radiators to a plasterboard wall must be carried out taking into account certain rules and regulations.

Battery holder

Regardless of the type of radiators, the same rules apply when installing them. For example, if you plan to use the space under the window for installation, you need to build on the following requirements:

The battery should be 8 to 12 centimeters above the floor.

The distance from the top of the battery to the window sill should be at least 6 - 10 centimeters.

Maintain a gap of 3 to 5 centimeters from the battery to the wall.

Types of fasteners for heating radiators

Butterfly dowel for drywall

Before starting installation, you should decide what quantity and quality of fasteners you will need.

The number of brackets - fasteners per radiator depends on its length and, accordingly, weight.

Fasteners for heating radiators to the wall are selected taking into account such parameters as:

The material from which radiators and pipes are made.
Battery sizes.
The material of the wall to which the battery is attached.
Number, sizes, location of window openings.
The style in which the interior of the room is designed.

A competent approach to choosing brackets will make it easier to attach radiators to the wall in the future. For example, the weight of cast iron heating radiators requires the use of a certain type of fasteners:

The steel bracket must be adjustable and allow you to change the distance between the wall and the battery, and even its horizontal position.
Cast iron bracket.
Steel pin fasteners (length can reach 30 centimeters).
The bracket should be on a metal strip.
Features of attaching heating radiators to a plasterboard wall

Fastening heating radiators to a plasterboard wall involves the use of fasteners installed on the floor. With this option, the main load will fall on the supporting fasteners, and the wall bracket acts as insurance.

Self-tapping screws for plasterboard profile

Bimetallic batteries are mounted using the same principles. Of course, the mass of such batteries is less than that of similar cast iron products, but the load on the plasterboard wall can become excessive.

It is recommended to use the same floor fasteners as for mounting cast iron batteries.

Aluminum radiators, due to their small weight, can be attached to a wall made of any material without any problems. To install bimetallic, aluminum batteries, brackets are used:

Corner fasteners or reinforced steel brackets.
Steel pin fasteners, which are used with dowels 12 - 17 centimeters long.
Standard wall mounts with decorative plastic trim.

Attention! For radiators of some manufacturing companies, only branded brackets are used.

Radiator bracket

To summarize, we found out that the bracket is selected based on the technical characteristics of the wall and batteries. The methods and fastenings by which radiators are attached to plasterboard walls depend on the batteries themselves.

Correct fastening is the key to successful work! Brackets for heating radiators

The efficiency of heat supply directly depends on the proper operation of heating radiators installed in heated rooms and on their installation, which includes not only connecting the batteries to the heating circuit, but also their correct fastening.

For this purpose, brackets of various designs are used, allowing them to be securely fixed to the floor or wall.

Characteristic

Brackets for heating radiators are fastening elements of any design, shape, and size , made of steel, cast iron or other metals or alloys.

Products are divided into:

hanging fasteners designed to secure the radiator to the wall;
floor stands.

There are both adjustable and non-adjustable holders of both varieties.

Important! The key to proper installation of any heating battery is the selection of fasteners that match the characteristics of the model being installed. It is optimal to use those that come with the radiator.

Wall mount

The wall-mounted method of mounting batteries is the most common when installing heating systems. The selection of fasteners is carried out taking into account the weight of the battery and the material from which it is made.

Fasteners for cast iron batteries

These clamps are distinguished by their massiveness and increased strength. As a rule, in price lists they are marked “reinforced”.

Photo 1. Brackets for cast iron heating radiators. The products are highly durable.

For wall mounting of cast iron radiators, the following types of fasteners are used:

Non-adjustable cast iron fasteners.
Adjustable, made of steel. They allow you to change the distance between the wall and the radiator, which makes it possible to make adjustments in height and horizontally.
Pin holders made of steel.
Holders on the bar. This is a steel strip with two hooks for attaching the upper and lower battery collectors, which is attached vertically to the wall.

Attention! When installing cast iron radiators, it is important not only to select suitable fasteners, but also to take into account the wall material. For brick and concrete, as a rule, standard hanging brackets are sufficient. For plasterboard or wooden walls, reinforced floor fasteners are used that can take the main load.

For aluminum and bimetallic radiators

Unlike cast iron analogues, fasteners are lighter and less massive.

are used for wall mounting :

Corner fasteners made of steel. Depending on the mass of the radiator, conventional or reinforced models are used. They have two recesses that allow it to be fixed to both the lower and upper manifold.
Steel pin holders. They are divided into molded and round models.
Universal wall fasteners with polymer coating. The brackets themselves are made of steel, and the polymer pad serves to prevent the battery from moving due to thermal expansion.

Floor mounting method

It is used much less frequently compared to the mounted one.

Main reasons for choosing floor installation:

Inconsistency of wall material with the required load. Relevant for aerated concrete and plasterboard walls.
The need to strengthen the wall mounting. Used for heavy weight models, primarily cast iron.
Cannot be placed on the wall due to lack of space.
Lack of a suitable wall (a panoramic window is installed in the room).
Design decision.

Among the main types of floor holders are:

Adjustable fasteners. Some models are equipped with plastic covers.
Non-adjustable holders. Some models are also equipped with plastic covers.
Combined holders.
Special holders with a width of 80 to 100 mm.

Photo 2. Brackets for floor installation of radiators. They are racks that are attached to the floor.

Floor-standing types are made of cast iron, steel or other alloys designed to support the weight of certain battery models.

Calculation of the required number of brackets

As a rule, independent calculation is not required, since this information is contained in the technical documentation for the radiator . There are also recommendations regarding the use of brackets of certain models.

Calculation for wall mounting:

For cast iron batteries, where the number of sections is from 2 to 9, 3 pieces are required , two of which hold the battery on top, one on the bottom . If the number of sections is greater, brackets are added based on the average calculation: 1 fastener per 3 sections.
For aluminum batteries with a number of sections from 2 to 12, 3 brackets are also required: on top and bottom - 2 and 1, respectively . Additional holders are added based on the average calculation: 1 fastener for 4-5 sections.

For bimetallic radiators, the number of fasteners is similar to aluminum ones if there are fewer than ten sections. Additional holders are added at the rate of: 1 fastener for 4-5 sections.

The number of racks for installation on the floor is selected based on: 2 holders per battery with a number of sections up to 10 . For every 4 subsequent sections, 1 fastener is added.

Marking and installation

For placing radiators, areas located directly under the windows are considered optimal.

for effective operation :

distance from the bottom edge of the battery to the floor - from 80 to 120 mm;
distance from the top edge to the window sill - from 60 to 100 mm;
the distance from the wall to the radiator housing is from 30 to 50 mm .

Wall mount

Does not depend on the type, but the compatibility of the brackets with the battery being installed is important. Marking begins with identifying a vertical line dividing the window opening in half, after which this line is marked on the wall under the window.

Further marking depends on the layout of the heating circuit:

If the room has lower- type wiring, the upper edge of the radiator is marked on the wall with a horizontal line parallel to the floor.
If the wiring is lateral , the horizontal line goes in accordance with the axis of the supply pipe.

Then the distances between the mounting points on the radiator are measured and the resulting segments are projected onto the previously drawn horizontal and vertical lines.

The starting and ending points of the segments determine the places where the clamps are attached to the wall.

Afterwards, holes are drilled into them using a hammer drill, into which dowels are installed and the brackets themselves are screwed in. If the procedure is performed correctly, the supply and return pipes will clearly coincide with the corresponding fittings on the battery body. After hanging, check the reliability of the fastening and make sure there are no backlashes.

Floor mount

The floor installation procedure is in many ways similar to wall installation and includes the following steps:

Defining a vertical line dividing the window in half and projecting it onto the floor.
Measuring the distance between the mounting points on the radiator and projecting the resulting segment (or several, if more than two brackets are used) onto the axis of the distribution pipes, taking into account the previously drawn line. By analogy with a wall mount, the starting and ending points of the resulting segment are the places where the brackets are attached to the floor.
Drilling holes, installing and fixing holders.
Installation and subsequent check of the radiator for stability.

Useful video

Watch the video that explains exactly how to install radiators on the brackets.

Optimal choice

Choosing the right mounts is easy and anyone can do it.

the operating efficiency and safety of heating equipment depends on the correct choice of fasteners .

To minimize possible risks, use the services of qualified specialists who can select suitable fasteners and perform installation work, taking into account all the nuances that are sometimes not obvious to non-professionals.

Installation of heating radiators to a plasterboard wall

Of course, in order to hang a battery on a wall covered with plasterboard, it is best to initially include the required number of metal profiles in the structure.

Corner cutting with galvanized profile

Unfortunately, the use of unskilled workers in finishing results in unpleasant surprises. Not a single plasterboard structure will withstand if Russian-made cast iron heating radiators are installed on it. Of course, you can install such a battery on floor brackets and fix it to the wall so that it does not fall. However, this method cannot always be used. Therefore, to attach the radiator to the wall, you will have to break through a layer of plasterboard to the main, load-bearing wall. For this work, we will need a drill with a length of at least 150 - 200 millimeters, with which we will need to drill a hole in the main wall, passing through the plasterboard structure. Then, using a hammer, firmly secure the drive-in fastener into the prepared hole in the concrete wall. It would be more correct to use wooden plugs (chops), but in this case our maneuvers are limited by a layer of drywall.

Installation and fastening of heating radiators

It is worth using wooden plugs if the bracket is wobbly or does not go into the wall to a sufficient depth.
To do this, a hole is drilled using a drill, and a wooden rod with a diameter of 1.2 centimeters is cut out of wood to the length of the drilled hole.

One end of such a rod is sharpened, and the fasteners are slightly clogged in the second. Then, using a hammer, this structure is fixed in the wall. When preparing the mount for cast iron heating radiators, do not forget to mark the wall in advance. Then, if the battery does not lie flat on the mounts, you will have to bend them, use a hammer, or in case of large discrepancies, drill a new hole.

Using a similar method, you can mount radiators made of other materials to the wall. However, the light weight of bimetallic and aluminum radiators allows for other installation methods. There are brackets on sale that are attached directly to the drywall itself or to a metal profile pre-installed in the structure.

How to hang a rug on a wall

You don’t need to know a lot about how to hang a carpet on a wall, however, sometimes certain difficulties arise in solving this seemingly simple issue. For example, in order to hang a carpet on a brick wall, you need to have a tool such as a hammer drill, as well as fasteners in the form of dowels and screws, but for a plasterboard wall, completely different fasteners will be needed.

So, how to hang a carpet on a brick or plasterboard wall will be discussed below.

How to hang a rug on a wall

Before hanging the carpet on the wall, it is necessary to carry out the marking work associated with this matter. The easiest way to hang a carpet evenly on the wall is to use a water level (hydraulic level) of the required length.

Using the hydraulic level is very simple, although you will need the help of a second person. First, the water level tube needs to be filled with water. At the same time, it is important that there are no air bubbles inside it; if there are any, then you definitely need to get rid of them.

Well, then it’s a matter of technology. First, you need to make a mark on one side in the place where the carpet will hang in height. Then one person places the end of the water level against this mark, and the other with the other end of the level goes to the other side. After this, all that remains is simple manipulations, raising or lowering the ends of the tubes, to align the marks.

Carpet fastenings

After the marking work is completed, you can begin to decide how to hang the carpet on the wall. To do this, you will need to decide on the type of fastenings for carpets. You should not use thick nails to make holes in the carpet, since today you can easily buy the following specifically for hanging these products on the wall:

For example, it is very convenient to hang a carpet on the wall using special rings that have either clips or hooks that are inserted from the underside of the carpet.

In this case, you won’t have to make holes in the carpet, you won’t need to sew a loop to it either, and the whole job will take no more than an hour.

How to hang a rug on a drywall wall

Hanging a carpet on a plasterboard wall is quite easy; for this you will need to buy special Molly for plasterboard - dowels.
A gun is used to install them. However, if you need to hang one carpet on a gypsum board wall, then there is no need to buy a special gun for Molley, since they can be screwed using a regular flat-head screwdriver for this purpose. First, to do this, in the marked places for installing fasteners under the carpet loops, you should carefully make holes in the drywall. Then, having installed the Molly dowels in the hole, you should carefully tighten them with a flat-head screwdriver. It is very important not to overdo it, because otherwise you can squeeze out a piece of drywall along with the fastener.

Decorating batteries

Oddly enough, the installation of cast iron heating radiators is also found in luxury new buildings, and with all their undoubted advantages, their appearance irritates many housewives. Buying an apartment in itself involves a considerable investment, and in the end there is not much free money left. This is where decorating a heating radiator on the wall using plasterboard becomes relevant.

A metal profile is used for this.

Using profiles and drywall, you can hide painted cast iron heating radiators in a beautiful design.

Decorative screens for batteries

Russian manufacturers, unfortunately, when producing radiators and batteries, rarely think about such things as the appearance and design of products. In order to hide the battery that spoils the interior of the room, we will need:

Plasterboard sheets.
Metallic profile.
Jumpers.
Power tool.
Self-tapping screws, screws, dowels.

Preparing and assembling a structure designed to hide an ugly battery does not require any specific skills. The profile should be wider by 1-1.5 centimeters from the wall on which the battery is mounted to its outer side.

The profile size is cut to the width of the room in two parts. In the area where the battery is mounted, cuts are made on the edge of the profile and secured to the wall using corners.
One profile lies along the battery and is attached to the floor.
The second profile is located above the first, but below the height of the window sills and is attached to the wall using dowels.
Drywall, unlike a profile, is mounted using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws.

Patterned profile for drywall

A rigid structure in the form of a rectangle is assembled from the profile and jumpers, in which the battery is hidden. Drywall will be needed to cut out the planes for this rectangle. The prepared drywall is attached to the profile using self-tapping screws. You will need to cut holes in the drywall sheets through which air will move. The slots in the lower part of the facing plasterboard planes will take cold air from the floor, and it will come out through the upper holes, warmed by the radiator.

Banal slots can be replaced with an original grille that best suits the design of the room.

Replacing or hiding a battery or radiator is not as difficult as it seems; at first glance and upon closer examination, all the work can be done independently. The interior of the room can be changed by the owners at minimal financial cost. You just need to think in advance about the option that is most suitable for the room.

Installation of a frame for a box: how to cover a battery with plasterboard

To install the box, use the CD and UD profiles. Its use is convenient because the thickness of the CD is 27 mm with a width of 60 mm, and the UD has 27x27 mm - these dimensions will allow you to make the structure the most compact, pressed against the main wall . With such a device you can camouflage not only the battery, but also the heating pipes , making shelves on top for flowerpots.
To install a plasterboard box with your own hands, you need to accurately determine the edge of the protrusion of the structure and screw the UD profile along it to the floor. If you intend to cover the pipes, then extend the guide from wall to wall, and if not, then limit yourself to the size of the battery. Connect the front line to the wall with the same profile.
Along the wall, near the radiator, screw two UD strips vertically, marking the inner corner of the box. After this, determine the height of your structure and cut pieces of CD for vertical sheathing of the plasterboard floor. Insert the cut pieces into the floor UD and put the same profile on top, mirroring the location of what is on the floor - fasten all this together with self-tapping screws.
Now you need to find a lattice for the facade and for the top of the box in order to make a frame according to its size. This same contour can be made from the same CD, cutting the side flanges at the junctions with the profiles of the same name. This way the frame for the drywall will acquire additional rigidity, and fix the profiles to each other using special small screws for sheet steel.
Cover the metal frame with plasterboard sheets and, before puttingty or wallpapering, install a galvanized perforated profile at the corners for rigidity. In these cases, any gypsum board is suitable - wall, moisture-resistant and even ceiling - the main thing is that the instructions for its installation are followed. These prescribed rules mean the frequency of self-tapping screws (at least 30 cm from each other) and the depth of immersion of the screw head (1-1.5 mm below the gypsum board plane).

Criteria for selecting fasteners

To ensure the reliability of the installation, you should select the most optimal option from the entire variety of products presented. A number of factors must be taken into account:

To solve such problems, special fastening technologies are used, since massive structures will not hold without appropriate fixation

Advice! Sometimes special preparation of the foundations is required at the stage of repair work, so you will have to provide for the location of the elements in order to properly strengthen the foundation.

If you approach the process carefully and scrupulously, the result of the work will be excellent.

Main options for carrying out work

Let's consider how to mount a heating radiator depending on the type of base, since this criterion is the main one when working.

Drywall

This is the most difficult option, since the structure does not have high load-bearing properties.

Let's look at how to attach a heating radiator to drywall:

The first option is to build a box around the structure, and the radiators themselves are attached to a solid base. This option is most often used when using cast iron products, since the weight of an average-sized product exceeds 50 kilograms. The work is carried out in a standard way: places are marked, the base is drilled, dowels are inserted, then strong brackets are inserted.

The boxes are built on the sides, and the place where the radiator is attached is left

If you have lighter radiators, then you can simply strengthen the frame from the inside with a wooden block with a section of 50x50 or larger, the most important thing in this case is to accurately install the reinforcing elements, otherwise they will be of little use. In addition, you can place pipes under the sheathing, but if problems arise, you will have to destroy part of the wall.

In this case, the most important thing is to carry out the preparatory work correctly.

Advice! If you do not know the exact width of the brackets, then you can strengthen the base with two 50 mm thick boards; they can be positioned horizontally or vertically, in which case nothing bad will happen if the brackets deviate from the planned location.

Finally, if you have not prepared the wall, then to increase stability, floor brackets are also added to the wall brackets, this way you can ensure stability even if the strength of the walls is low.

Concrete, brick and blocks

In this case, components should be selected based on the configuration of the batteries, and not the type of base; it is strong enough to withstand any load.

Instructions for doing the work yourself look like this:

Load-bearing elements of the appropriate configuration are purchased, you can choose the simplest options, the price of which is low, or purchase adjustable brackets, they are more expensive, but they are also more convenient to work with.

The most common types of products

The work begins with marking the location of the fasteners, keep in mind that the distance to the floor from below and to the window sill from above must be at least 100 mm, and the distance to the wall must be from 3 to 5 cm, based on this the length is selected. If the fastening is made in aerated concrete, then it is better to use special dowels for this type of base.
After this, holes are drilled using a hammer drill; it is important to keep the tool level so that there are no distortions. Next, dowels are placed in the wall and the brackets are screwed into them to the desired level.
If you use a reflector for a heating radiator, you need to secure it after installing the brackets, so you can position this element correctly and not damage it when drilling.

The reflector is glued directly under the radiator holders

Next, the radiator is hung and its position is checked using a level; if there are distortions, then the elements are either bent or adjusted (if these are adjustable options). After this, the level is checked again, and if everything is normal, then the pipes can be attached.

How to hide a heating radiator behind drywall?

In the lives of many people there comes a difficult period, it is called renovation. If the family budget allows you to change everything in the apartment or house, then practically no questions arise. A team of professionals is hired to carry out turnkey repairs. But more often there is a lack of money or other reasons, for example, the husband has golden hands and he can repair everything very well himself.

Sometimes heating radiators are so bulky and do not fit into the interior design at all that it is simply necessary to cover them with something.

In this article we will look at how to properly cover a heating radiator with plasterboard.

Stages of covering a heating battery with plasterboard

Let's break the whole process into three stages:

The first stage is preparatory.

You need to take accurate battery measurements to know how much material you will need and what finish is right for you.

Next comes the choice of drywall. Drywall is a sheet covered on both sides with facing cardboard having a gypsum core. It is an environmentally friendly material, so it is great for home decoration. Finishing is an important aesthetic stage. The market today offers many types of different shades and colors of drywall. For us, both ceiling and wall plasterboard are suitable for masking the heating radiator.

Next, along with the drywall, you need to purchase the components necessary to disguise our heating battery:

Structure of gypsum board sheet.

profile 27x60 mm;
bolts;
screwdriver;
drill;
hacksaw;
dowels;
liquid Nails.

The second stage is the manufacture of the frame.

This is the most critical stage in order to close the radiators, so you need to use a level or plumb line. The frame can be made of profile or wood. Made from wood - easier.

For the profile, a guide is secured to the floor along the wall with liquid nails or screws.

Profile 27 is mounted in the bottom panel of the window. Then, strictly at a horizontal level, we attach jumpers from profile 60. A sheet of plasterboard is a fairly durable material, so five jumpers two meters long will be enough. Furniture edges are most often used to finish fastening points.

You need to make sure that all the necessary design details are ready. Using self-tapping screws, we finish the battery with plasterboard, “driving” their heads flush. Next, you need to putty and paint everything. Now, instead of paint, you can use wallpaper or adhesive film, which may better suit your interior; they can be of different colors, with ornaments or finished with any materials. They come in a variety of colors and can satisfy the needs of almost any consumer.

Before finishing the radiator, it is recommended to take photographs so that you know exactly where the drywall fasteners are located. Once the repairs are complete, we will be able to restore them to their original appearance. It is best to cover the heating radiator with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Sometimes condensation appears on the surface of heating radiators. To avoid damage to the finish, it is better to use moisture-resistant drywall. It has a standard thickness of 12.5 mm.

If you want to leave access to the heating radiator, you can use various removable panels or hatches, which are also available in abundance on the construction market.

The third stage is making the top cover to cover the battery. It is best to make a cover that can then be removed. Housewives often do general cleaning, including washing heating radiators. In order not to form another dust collector at home in the form of a closed heating radiator, it is best to make the lid removable, and even in case of unplanned repairs, a removable cover will come in very handy, because access to the heating radiator can be organized very quickly, and the finish will not be damaged. But you should also take into account the fact that drywall is not a very durable material; it can be damaged if it is not used carefully enough. It is necessary to make ventilation holes in the lid necessary for heat removal.

Pros and cons of using drywall

After reading the article, if you decide to cover the radiator with plasterboard, then you need to take into account that this is a rather fragile material. It may not be possible to make enough holes in the top cover for good heat transfer. The sheet may crumble or break; the removable cover must also be used carefully to avoid damage.

Disadvantages of drywall: although drywall is a fairly strong material, it cannot withstand strong impacts. It can even be pierced by hand or a sharp object. Contact with water may cause this material to swell and deform; If the heating radiator leaks, you will have to change the entire finish. Once you have covered the battery, further finishing work needs to be done, such as puttying and painting or taping the top cover. Well, you should remember that drywall should only be stored in a horizontal position to avoid its deformation - this is in case you purchased the material in advance.

The advantages of drywall. Firstly, it is an environmentally friendly material that does not contain toxins and does not burn. The market offers many types of drywall: from heat-resistant for finishing fireplaces to moisture-resistant for kitchens and bathrooms. Secondly, this is a fairly cheap material, and there are many methods and methods for its installation. Thirdly, drywall allows design ideas to run wild, to cover not only heating radiators, but also to produce various interior decorations. Using drywall is quite easy.

Recommendations for the arrangement of elements

This factor is also important; the number of brackets must correspond to the type of structure:

For cast iron structures with a number of ribs from two to nine, it is necessary to install one holder at the bottom and two at the top.
If the number of sections is larger, then you need to install at least two brackets at the top and two at the bottom , sometimes you can add one more on top if the radiator is very large.

A sufficient number of fasteners is the key to reliability and durability

As for the bimetallic and aluminum options, most often the delivery kit already includes fasteners , so you just need to install it in accordance with the instructions. If the elements were not available, then you can purchase a ready-made kit consisting of three saber brackets with dowels.

Some kits include components for heating radiators and fasteners, so you get everything you need to get the job done

Selecting reliable elements and installing them correctly is very important, since the radiator must be positioned level and held firmly. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances in more detail.

How to hang a radiator or radiator on drywall

Published on August 25, 2017 in the Walls category // // Author: Admin

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You have just finished finishing the walls with drywall. But a cold winter is ahead, and it’s time to think about heating your apartment. This could be a radiator or a battery. But all of these are quite heavy structures, into which water will then be poured, so these structures are not so easy to attach to drywall due to its insufficient strength. But it is quite possible. Let's figure out in order how to hang the battery on drywall.

First, let's determine whether there are any differences between installing a battery and installing a radiator on drywall. Yes, they exist, and this happens due to the different weight of the structures (the mass of the battery is significantly greater than the radiator).

Fasteners for batteries on drywall

Things to consider when choosing brackets:

battery weight;
type of base.

Let's take a closer look at heating batteries, since for proper mounting it is worth taking into account not only the weight, but also the dimensions.

There are several types of fasteners for heating structures: a simple hook with a pointed end that is simply driven into the surface, a bracket equipped with a dowel, and fasteners with a plastic plug.

Fastener selection

An important detail in this matter is the fastener, or rather, the bracket. What factors will be decisive when choosing it?

Type of base to which the radiator or battery is attached

In our case, this is what the actual wall under the drywall is made of. It would be very good if it is concrete or brick, since these materials can withstand heavy loads.

Radiator type

The heaviest are old-style cast iron batteries. Due to their weight, installation problems may arise, so if possible, you should consider replacing them with aluminum or steel ones. The efficiency is the same, but the weight is noticeably different.

Design dimensions

Here everything depends on the area and volume of the heated room: the larger the room, the more sections the radiator should have. The number of sections should be used as a starting point when choosing the quality and quantity of brackets.

Design Features

If your designer’s plan includes some non-standard solutions in the form of radiators of a special design, then you should take care of the appropriate fastenings. It's good when they come with a battery.

Main types of batteries

Cast iron structures of the old type, having a considerable specific gravity. The batteries are difficult to install even on a regular surface, so if possible, it is better to change them to other models. But cast iron battery
has its advantages: durability, practicality, good heat dissipation. Such structures take a long time to heat up, but do not cool down.
Aluminum batteries are light in weight, heat up quickly and begin to give off heat, but cool down just as quickly. The structures appeared on the market not so long ago; they are already painted, withstand pressure in communications, and do not require special care.
Steel radiators - characteristics are similar to the second design option for heating. They also weigh a little, last a long time, but may not withstand a sharp increase in pressure in the network.

How to attach a battery to drywall

Let's start with a proven option, which many already consider outdated, but it is not losing ground. This is a regular cast iron radiator.

No gypsum board is capable of supporting the weight of this battery, so you will have to mount it not on a false plasterboard wall, but to get to a real, usually concrete or brick, wall. Only this will ensure the reliability of the fastener.

You can combine welded legs and brackets, and it can be screwed not into the wall, but into the profile, since the legs will take on the entire load, and the bracket is needed to protect it from “collapse.” In addition, the heating pipes themselves will support your battery. But now we are considering the option of installing it on drywall.

At this stage we need to drill a hole in the drywall, reaching the wall. Depending on the design of the false wall, the gap between the drywall and concrete can be from 3 to 10 cm. Since we need to make a hole in the wall itself, the drill must be 15-20 centimeters long in order to securely fasten the bracket. Diameter – about 10 mm.

Having finished with the holes, we hammer in the bracket for the batteries. It is a metal rod, curved at one end and repeating the shape of the battery section, and slightly tapering at the other. It would be much more correct to hammer a wooden chop into the hole and then drive the fastener into it. But sheets of drywall do not give us such an opportunity.

If the bracket cannot go deep or moves, then we will drill the hole so that its diameter is 12. Now we hammer the fasteners exactly into the middle of the long wooden chop and only then into the wall.

We hang the battery on the brackets; if it hangs unevenly, the fasteners can be bent with a hammer. So we figured out how to attach the battery to the drywall. Let's now look at attaching heating radiators to a plasterboard wall.

How to attach a battery to drywall: step-by-step instructions

Let's look at how to secure a cast iron battery - an outdated method, but many still use it.

The specific weight of this battery will not withstand even double plasterboard, so you need to secure the structure to the main wall through gypsum plasterboard.

The video shows how to properly mount the battery on a plasterboard

.
Which is better: heated floors or radiators?
Warm floorBatteries

For structural strength, shaped legs can be welded to the cast iron structure, which will take the load from the weight of the battery. To prevent the battery from collapsing, brackets are screwed into the profile. In addition, iron pipes will support the battery. But we are looking at how to fix a radiator to drywall.

Attaching the battery to drywall: step-by-step instructions

First of all, using a drill with a wood drill bit, drill holes in the plasterboard. This must be done carefully, without pressing, as the drywall may break. Important! The distance between the gypsum board and the base can reach up to 10 cm, so the drill bit for the hammer drill is taken 20 cm.
As soon as the holes in the gypsum board are ready, you need to take a hammer drill with a 10 mm diameter drill and drill holes for fasteners in the main wall. Try to keep the tool exactly parallel to the floor so that the bracket does not move sideways later.
Then we hammer the hooks into the holes. Ideally, you need to install a dowel and screw a threaded fastener into it. But such elements are difficult to find, especially for a cast iron battery, so let's assume that we have a hook with a pointed end.
If the hook moves or does not fit at the required distance, you need to pull it out and drill a hole with a larger diameter and deeper. Then prepare a wooden cap, into the middle of which fasteners are driven, and only then hammered into the wall.
Hang the battery on the bracket and check the level. If the battery hangs unevenly, you can slightly knock down the fasteners with a hammer. Try not to knock too hard on the bracket, since in a brick wall made of old material, you can loosen the fasteners and have to do the work again.

These are all the instructions for attaching a cast iron battery to a plasterboard wall. Now let's look at how to fix an aluminum radiator.

How to hang a heating radiator on drywall

A radiator is a newer and more progressive solution to the heating problem. How to hang a heating radiator on drywall?

This is even simpler, because the mass of the radiator is much less, many types of fastenings are provided for it: from cast iron from the USSR to modern European standards. Now we will use a mount for heating radiators to a plasterboard wall, which is called a bracket with a plug.

Installation of heating radiators on drywall also begins with drilling holes: using an 8-inch drill, you need to make a hole, which should be 7 cm long in the concrete wall itself. Next, screw the plug onto the fastener and hammer it into the hole. Again, using a hammer, bend the edges of the plug into this hole and tighten the bracket for the last time. If you drive it in, take a wooden block or something similar so that the paint doesn’t come off and ruin the look.

There are also mounts for heating radiators on plasterboard, which are attached directly to the plasterboard sheet. They are suitable for lightweight radiators. They are fastened with long bolts that do not have heads. The sharp part is driven into a sheet of drywall, and at the other end the bracket is secured with a nut. The excess part of the bolt can be removed with a grinder.

So we figured out how to fix a heating radiator to drywall. The main thing is to take your time and carry out the installation diligently and efficiently so that collapse does not occur under the weight of the structure.

Methods for installing mirrors on drywall: easier than batteries

When it comes to hanging mirrors on plasterboard walls, there are three installation methods.

Note! All of the methods below are suitable for attaching not only mirrors, but also other objects to plasterboard walls.

These methods vary depending on the size and weight of the mirror:

For small and lightweight mirrors, you can use double-sided tape. This is the simplest method that requires minimal time and money. This way you can attach a product weighing up to 5 kg. We apply tape around the perimeter of the product and attach it to the wall, pressing it well. The main thing is that it hangs evenly. But usually there is no need to hang mirrors of such a small size on the walls for their functional purpose. This method is often used to create some kind of decorative solution;

Note! In this situation, you should use a special tape specifically designed for attaching mirrors to walls.

for liquid nails. Using this mount, you can hang a medium-sized product on the wall. In this case, the weight of the product should be up to 20 kg;
on dowels or anchors or special brackets. With the help of such fasteners you can even fix an old and rather weighty mirror on a plasterboard wall. The method is used when the weight of the object is more than 20 kg.

The second and third methods are most often used, since mirrors of such sizes fully correspond to their purpose.

How to hang small objects on drywall

In a situation where your product weighs up to 20 kg, you can use liquid nails. To attach a product to a plasterboard wall in this way, we carry out the following manipulations:

choose the location of the future placement of the product on the wall;
remove dirt and dust from the selected area of the working surface;
apply liquid nails to the back surface of the mirror;
the solution should be applied in such a way as to ensure maximum adhesion surface;
special attention should be paid to the edges. Liquid nails should be applied here not to the edge itself, but at a slight distance. This must be done so that when pressing the product against the plasterboard surface it does not go beyond its boundaries. In such a situation, you can leave unsightly stains near the mirror, thereby ruining the exterior finish;
We press the product against the wall, adjusting its position on the surface. You can use a level for this;
if during the process of pressing a small amount of solution comes out of the mirror, carefully wipe it off with a clean napkin;
hold the object in this position until the solution dries completely. In order not to stand and hold the product until it dries completely, you can prop it up or use any other structure to support it.

How to hang heavy objects on drywall walls

Mirrors that are large in weight and size are attached using special fasteners - a butterfly dowel.

The peculiarity of this fastening element is that when it is screwed into the wall cavity, the dowel opens like a butterfly (hence the name of the fastening element). As a result, the dowel is firmly fixed in the hole and will not be pulled out, unlike ordinary nails. Such fasteners will not rotate in the hole made, which will ensure greater rigidity of adhesion of the product to the wall surface.

Note! To protect yourself from the risk of the mirror tearing out a piece of the wall, it is recommended to screw butterfly dowels into metal profiles.

Scheme for installing heavy mirrors on drywall

We install the product according to the following scheme:

We find a metal profile under the material. The easiest way to find it is to use a magnet;
make a mark in the right place;
if the mirror has large dimensions and at the same time average weight, then it is necessary to determine several places for screwing in butterfly dowels. This way you can evenly distribute the load over the surface of the wall. The best solution would be to install fasteners in adjacent profiles;
After this, you can screw hooks into the dowels or install brackets.

In a situation where the product has quite impressive dimensions, anchor bolts should be used instead of butterfly dowels.

Anchor bolts for mounting on drywall

This fastening is more durable than a butterfly dowel. In terms of its structure, an anchor bolt is practically no different from a butterfly dowel. When screwed into the hole, it helps ensure that the mount is firmly fixed in it. Installing such fasteners in a metal profile under sheets of drywall will create such a strong fastening that can withstand the weight of even a full-length mirror. And when installing anchor bolts in two adjacent profiles, it will not allow your mirror to fall.

In addition, in a situation where heavy products are installed, in order to avoid tearing out a piece of the wall, you can install a second sheet of material. Instead of drywall, you can use a plywood sheet as a second sheet.