Do-it-yourself ventilation in an apartment: an overview of the nuances of arranging a ventilation system

Supply ventilation for an apartment is an effective way of air exchange. In this material we will tell you how to competently organize a microclimate system in a residential area. Ineffective ventilation systems are a problem in many apartment buildings. Lack of draft and clogged air ducts cannot cope with the outflow of exhaust air. Drafts and heat loss through ventilation reduce the overall level of household comfort and increase heating costs. Plastic windows make the situation worse. Sealed double-glazed windows and thermal insulation of the building interfere with the natural flow of fresh air into our apartments. How to solve the issue of effective air exchange? Which supply ventilation to choose for an apartment so that the system functions properly - we will tell you in more detail below.

Air exchange is the key to a healthy microclimate

A high-quality ventilation system in an apartment building should create a pleasant microclimate and maintain good air quality. A properly designed and installed installation does not cause drafts and removes carbon dioxide, water vapor, odors and tobacco smoke from the room. The air exchange control option is very important, which controls the supply and outflow as needed. This helps avoid damage caused by excessive humidity in the apartment. An important feature is noise reduction and reduction in heating costs.

Physical basis of ventilation

The movement of air flows is based on the simplest physical processes. The gas-air mass is processed and transported thanks to existing convection processes. To use this natural process, heat and heating sources are placed in the lowest areas, and supply elements, on the contrary, are as close as possible to the ceiling.

In its general meaning, the term “convection” represents the redistribution of thermal energy between heated and cold gas flows. Convection processes can occur naturally or forcefully.

In a closed space, the overall temperature is determined by the degree of heating of the air. The value is not constant throughout the entire space, it varies with height. The phenomenon is caused by a non-uniform concentration of molecules at constant pressure inside the room. At a higher temperature, the concentration of gas particles is lower, which means its mass is lower. Therefore, there is a concept that heated air is “lighter” and cold air is “heavier”. This fact explains the design of ventilation systems: exhaust units are located at the top, and supply units are located at the bottom.

Air movement usually occurs from bottom to top Source sovet-ingenera.com

A well-designed exhaust ventilation system in combination with natural convection processes allows you to maintain the set level of temperature and humidity indoors.

How to make fresh ventilation in an apartment?

The typical construction of apartment buildings was carried out according to Soviet standards, which provided for exhaust vents in the bathroom and toilet. The kitchen hood was installed at the request of the apartment owner. The task of supply ventilation was assigned to vents and cracks in windows and doors. In a number of apartments you can find a cylindrical supply valve in the wall, which was plugged in winter due to drafts and cold. The issue of effective air exchange in our homes is still acute. How to make fresh ventilation in an apartment to create a comfortable microclimate? There are several ways:

1. Manual or automatic ventilation. Organizing regular ventilation manually is problematic. You can use micro-ventilation - leave the window open 2-3 mm or install a servo drive on the window sash. The mechanism automatically opens the sash at set intervals. The devices are equipped with a set of sensors and close the window in case of high humidity or strong wind.
2. Window or wall valve. Devices for windows are cheaper and easier to install. Optimal for small spaces. Wall inlet valves require drilling into the wall, are equipped with a coarse filter and are well suited for spacious rooms.

The methods listed above increase the regular flow of fresh air into the room, but have a number of disadvantages. They work on the principle of natural ventilation - based on temperature differences. Effective in winter, not effective in summer. They cool the room down during the cold season and increase heating costs. They do not filter the air or perform basic cleaning.

Forced ventilation devices cope well with the above problems:

• ventilators - an improved wall valve with a fan. Performance depends on the power of the electric motor;
• breathers - monoblock, compact devices with a multi-stage filtration system, heating elements, digital control and sensors;
• Air conditioners with fresh air supply do more than just cool or heat. The units are equipped with a chamber for mixing street air masses, which, after filtration, enter the room.

Supply ventilation for an apartment combined with air conditioning is a universal and effective solution.

Channel cleaning

About the need to clean the ventilation
Proceed with an individual check of each vent. If the paper behaves differently, contaminants are present in the inner boxes.

To eliminate such a nuisance, it is enough to arm yourself with an ordinary dish brush attached to a flexible and thin steel cable, and walk a similar structure along the ventilation duct.

Cleaning the ventilation in the apartment

You can get rid of residual debris using a vacuum cleaner with a long tube. For example, you can connect a long piece of an ordinary flexible hose for irrigation. Such a product has the required flexibility and is, at the same time, quite rigid.

If, as a result of the measures described above, you do not find any blockages, then the problem is at the level of the main ventilation duct. Its cleaning is carried out in the order already familiar to you, you just need to take a larger brush. Additionally, you may need other devices, for example, a fiberglass rod, a metal or wooden rod, a hook, etc.

Ventilation cleaning

Use extreme caution when cleaning the main vent. Wasps and other dangerous or extremely unpleasant living creatures often build their nests in them.

Cleaning ventilation from fatty deposits

Please also take into account the fact that in most cases, residents of apartment buildings are prohibited from climbing into the main ventilation duct on their own - caring for it is the responsibility of the organization on whose balance sheet the building is located, or the homeowner. Therefore, it is better to immediately submit an application to the appropriate place in order to avoid further unpleasant proceedings and not to do unnecessary work that is not part of your responsibilities.

Classification and types of supply ventilation for apartments

Ventilation systems for apartments differ in design, principle of operation and methods of organizing air exchange in the premises. Main classification criteria:

• forces causing air flow: natural, mechanical;
• operating hours: constant, periodic;
• method of organizing air exchange: general, local;
• air flow direction: supply, exhaust, supply and exhaust;
• differential air pressure: positive pressure ventilation, negative pressure ventilation;
• air treatment range: ventilation with cooling, ventilation with humidification;
• transport speed in supply channels: ventilation with low, medium and high air speed;
• Availability of air ducts: ducted, ductless.

Let's talk in more detail about the main varieties.

Natural ventilation

The operating principle is based on the different densities of street and indoor air and the force of gravity that moves air masses. Operating efficiency depends on the temperature difference between inside and outside the building. The larger it is, the better. This type of ventilation is most effective in winter and ineffective in summer. In new buildings with sealed double-glazed windows, natural ventilation does not work well even in winter and does not provide the required volume of air.

What is the difference between natural and forced ventilation in an apartment?

Natural ventilation works based on the laws of physics. Dense cold air entering the room displaces less dense indoor air. The supply air system is the ventilation system that is responsible for supplying air to the building. The principle of its operation can be either natural or mechanical. A servo drive on a window sash is the simplest example of supply ventilation operating on a natural principle. A breather with a built-in fan is a mechanical supply principle. Therefore this is an incorrect comparison.

Hybrid ventilation

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is fluctuations in the draft force in the ventilation ducts and too weak or excessive ventilation of the premises. This problem is solved by hybrid ventilation - a type of natural ventilation with mechanical support in the form of a cap on the chimney. This solution significantly improves the air exchange of the room during the off-season and winter.

Mechanical ventilation

In this case, air flow is provided by fans. This allows you to fully control the intensity of air exchange in any conditions, clean, regulate temperature and humidity. Equipment performance is usually adjusted depending on external factors. The basic advantage of this solution is the ability to control the speed of exhaust and supply air.

With recovery

A mechanical air handling unit can be supplemented with a recuperator. Its task is to extract heat from the air removed from the room and heat the fresh air. This technology allows you to recover up to half of lost heat and reduce heating costs. Mechanical ventilation removes smog and other pollutants from the air entering your home. Provides complete independence from weather conditions. This means we don't have to open windows or install diffusers to provide airflow.

Selection criteria, types and elements of ventilation in an apartment building

The presence of certain elements will directly depend only on the type of system. But, regardless of the chosen option, it will contain the following mandatory components:

• air channels;
• ventilation shaft;

Regardless of the type, it will definitely be a supply and exhaust system. Accordingly, it is necessary to ensure not only the exhaust, but also the arrival in the same volume.

Depending on the type of impulse to initiate cravings, such systems are usually divided into:

• natural - traction appears due to the difference in temperature and pressure indoors and outdoors;
• combined - exhaust or injection is carried out electromechanically;
• forced - draft and injection occurs with the help of special fans and other devices.

If a multi-storey building uses natural ventilation of residential buildings, the presence of a ventilation shaft is mandatory.

Diagram of a typical communal ventilation shaft

The requirements for its arrangement are simple and the same for all buildings:

• tightness;
• throughput corresponds to the designed volume;
• compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards;
• fire safety.

Also, depending on the air exchange pattern, the system can be mixing or displacement. The first method is typical for impenetrable walls with a vapor barrier. The influx comes through ventilation holes and various cracks. Due to the relatively high initial speed, fresh street air mixes with polluted air. If the flow is not organized correctly, it will be difficult to extract air contaminated with impurities in this way.

To select the type of ventilation, it is necessary to take into account all factors, such as:

• number of floors;
• location relative to other structures;
• level of external noise;
• environmental pollution.

For houses with intra-block location and noise levels up to 51 dBA, it is recommended to install natural ventilation. If the building is located in a particularly polluted place, or the noise level is more than 51 dBA, it is necessary to use an air supply system and it is advisable to carry out filtration.

Scheme of supply ventilation in the apartment

Cold air enters the room through cracks, windows, ductless supply systems or air ducts using fans. Less dense indoor air rises up and is discharged through ventilation grilles located near the ceiling in the kitchen and bathrooms. The removed air causes an influx of fresh air, which enters the bedroom, living room and other rooms. During installation, it is important to ensure the unhindered movement of clean air to the ventilation grilles. Implementation option: ventilation slots in the doors.

The order of operation of ventilation using the example of a typical project

The most common panel project is a nine-story building. The principle of operation of the hood is the same. Air from the street, through windows and cracks, enters the apartment. The exhaust occurs through satellite ventilation ducts in the kitchen or bathroom. One, or less often several, channels from the hood are connected to the main pipe. These channels are connected to the main shaft through two floors. These shafts are quite bulky and take up a lot of space. A large-panel house will most likely be equipped with such a system.

Such a scheme for a house of 9 floors assumes the presence of a warm attic. The outlet from the 8th and 9th floors goes directly into the atmosphere, bypassing the common channel. The scheme for a 9-storey building was designed based on the complete absence of wind and an outside air temperature of +5.

Despite the fact that natural ventilation in such houses is not very effective, it requires almost no maintenance, and blockages rarely occur. There have been cases where ventilation ducts became clogged with building materials during the construction of a house. Such a surprise subsequently affected the quality of the hood. Most often, cleaning the mine is required once every 5-6 years.

During repairs, many people block the air flow in some place. They unknowingly think that this will not affect the hood, but the process of air renewal in the apartment becomes difficult or stops completely.

The most common actions leading to interference and disruption of natural ventilation:

• installation of sealed plastic windows;
• interior doors with seal;
• installation of various fans in the hood.

In order not to disrupt the operation of the natural ventilation draft, it is forbidden to obstruct the inflow and outflow of air. For plastic windows, it is necessary to install inlet openings or arrange an external inlet separately. Doors between rooms are equipped with bars at the bottom. The cross-section of the exhaust duct should not be blocked by fans.

What is the difference between natural and forced ventilation in an apartment?

Supply ventilation only works to supply fresh air. Supply and exhaust - for supply and outflow. In residential premises, the exhaust system can function separately.

Example: duct fans in bathrooms and an extractor hood in the kitchen. The inflow is carried out through windows, diffusers, window or wall valves.

Mechanical system with heat recovery

An alternative to natural ventilation is a mechanical heat recovery system. The premises are equipped with air ducts for supplying fresh air and ventilation ducts for removing exhaust air. The most important element of this system is the recuperator, which “takes” the heat from the exhaust air and transfers it to the supply air. This eliminates large heat losses typical of traditional ventilation and restores up to 90% of heat. The unit is equipped with a filtration system and pre-cleanses the air from dirt, dust, allergens, and toxins. Mechanical ventilation allows you to precisely control the intensity of air exchange.

Forced system without recuperation

In forced ventilation without recovery, heat loss is higher, but the issue of heating the supply air can be solved using duct heaters. Additionally, the incoming air is cleaned. The quality of filtration depends on the class of the filter. It consists of several independent fans (in the kitchen, bathroom and other rooms), each of which is controlled by its own sensor that measures air humidity.

TOP best air handling units

The best inexpensive air handling units

These models have a low cost (we have placed devices with a price of up to 25,000 rubles in the budget mechanisms segment). Thanks to this, such ventilation units are suitable for buyers with a limited budget. Most often, such models are used for domestic use.

Domovent Solo RA1-35-9R

This model is a supply valve. The device has a low price. The manufacturer of this mechanism saved money on the control panel - it is not included in the package. The unit can be turned on using the switch located on the power cable. You can still regulate the ventilation performance using a pull cord switch. The package weight is 2.5 kilograms.

Cost: 7,500–8,500 rubles.

Domovent Solo RA1-35-9R Pros

• low price (the model is available for budget buyers);
• small dimensions;
• high degree of protection.

Minuses

• There is no control panel.

Blauberg Fresher 50 1000045121

The model of this air handling unit has a high-quality filter, which in turn is capable of fine or coarse cleaning (depending on the desire of the buyer). Products can be connected to each other in series and form a chain. The design also includes a humidity sensor and a sensor that measures the carbon dioxide content in the room.

Cost: 14,000–16,000 rubles.

Blauberg Fresher 50 1000045121 Pros

• high degree of protection;
• several operating modes;
• low cost of the model;
• energy saving.

Minuses

• Thick walls are required for installation.

Aeropac SN

This model is universal. The device can be used both in an apartment and in a residential building. This ventilation is used less often in offices. The housing of the air handling unit is very durable. The model is able to withstand falls or loads. The device can be mounted next to the battery (to increase the room temperature in winter). Installation on an air duct is also possible. The mechanism has a fairly low level of electricity consumption.

Cost: 18,000–21,000 rubles.

Aeropac SN Pros

• the model has a long cord;
• can work on filters from other manufacturers;
• strong, durable construction;
• You can make a hidden installation.

Minuses

• not controlled using the remote control.

Tion Lite

The model is small in size; among the entire Tion line, this model is the smallest. The device can be mounted into the wall at any angle - this does not affect its performance. You can also select the filtering level. In total, the model can operate at six speeds. The display of the device reflects all the most important information - full climate control is provided.

Cost: 23,000–25,000 rubles.

Tion Lite Pros

• small dimensions of the model;
• there is the possibility of hidden installation;
• heater power is 850 W;
• can be installed at any angle.

Minuses

• insufficient quality of noise reduction.

VAKIO Lumi

This model can be mounted on walls with a thickness of 15 cm or more. The model is small-sized. Ventilation has a high degree of filtration. The installation efficiently cleans the air from street dust or harmful substances. The model has three modes of operation: supply, exhaust, and can also be used as a passive valve. The device perfectly dampens noise coming from the street. The mechanisms can be combined into a joint group of 10 installations.

Cost: 20,000–22,000 rubles.

VAKIO Lumi Pros

• possibility of combining into one cluster;
• control can be carried out from me on the case or using the remote control;
• inexpensive maintenance;
• Can be installed on thin walls.

Minuses

• The kit does not include a heater (additional purchase required).

The best premium air handling units

In this section we have included air handling units with a price starting from 45,000 rubles. These mechanisms are capable of providing hundreds of square meters of space with fresh air. They usually come with many different sensors and more options available.

AIRNANNY A7 BabyCare H11

This device was created specifically to control the climate inside a children's room. The model continuously introduces fresh air into the room, monitoring the state of the environment: humidity, temperature and other indicators. The mechanism can be configured to operate automatically. The device has a robust design that can withstand mechanical damage or loads. The model is also resistant to hypothermia – it can function at a temperature of -20°C.

Cost: 47,000–49,000 rubles.

AIRNANNY A7 BabyCare H11 Pros

• withstands negative temperatures;
• favorite among ventilation for children's rooms;
• there is no sound or light alarm - nothing will interfere with the child’s sleep;
• many different options.

Minuses

• large dimensions of the model.

Tion 3s Plus

The model can immediately supply fresh air and filter it. The model perfectly cleans the air flow from dirt and dust. The device collects and displays several environmental parameters at once: it shows air temperature, humidity and carbon dioxide concentration. The product has six different speeds for operation. Maximum productivity is up to 140 cubic meters/hour. Depending on the selected power, the noise level from the installation ranges from 19–47 dB.

Cost: 50,000–53,000 rubles.

Tion 3s Plus Pros

• 6 speed modes;
• energy efficiency;
• controlled remotely (via smartphone using Bluetooth function);
• filters are easy to replace.

Minuses

• There is no control panel on the ventilation itself.

Ventmachine Satellite

The device has excellent performance, but at the same time produces a low noise level during operation. There is also the possibility of installing a model with wiring for several rooms. That is, one such installation can easily replace several cheaper options (the price of this model is quite high). The device has a long service life. Ventilation can serve its owner for decades.

Cost: 150,000–155,000 rubles.

Ventmachine Satellite Pros

• a sufficiently high coefficient of suppression of external noise (coming from the street);
• high service life;
• many functions included (fire sensor, carbon dioxide sensor);
• Durable stainless steel construction.

Minuses

• high cost of the model. Further maintenance will also cost a pretty penny.

Ventilation in the apartment wall: supply valve

A supply valve in the wall is a technically simple, but very important element of a mechanical ventilation system. Responsible for supplying air to the room, mounted in the wall. These devices are often installed as an alternative to ventilation grilles. More modern models have an adjustment mechanism. Available in plastic and metal cases. The former are cheaper, resistant to moisture, and not subject to corrosion, but lose strength when exposed to UV rays. Metal appliances are made from galvanized steel sheet and powder coated to prevent rust. They cost more than plastic ones, but last longer.

Options for organizing inflow

We will explain the importance of fresh air ventilation with an example. Imagine a sealed container of water being pumped out by a pump. Since the vacated volume is not filled with air, the pressure in the tank drops. At a certain point, the pump will not have enough power to overcome the vacuum and pump out further - the impeller will begin to mix the water in place.

Key moment. When indoor air exchange, a similar principle applies - natural or forced exhaust will not be able to effectively remove polluted air if replacement with an influx is not provided.

Without normal inflow, a more powerful hood creates a reverse draft effect (overturning) in a ventilation duct of a smaller cross-section.
After installing sealed plastic windows and filling the supply gap previously located under the window sill, the entry of air masses from outside is excluded. Consequences: a fan or ventilation duct of a larger cross-section (usually in the kitchen) upsets the draft in a smaller shaft (toilet), from where an unpleasant odor enters the apartment. The living room, bedroom and other rooms are left without ventilation at all.

There are several ways to make complete supply and exhaust ventilation of a private home:

• folk method - trimming window seals;
• buy an air conditioner with the function of supplying outside air;
• install an adjustable air valve into the plastic window;
• make a hole in the wall and install a local air supply device.

Advice. The performance of a natural home hood can be checked as follows: remove the ventilation grilles in the kitchen and bathroom, attach 2-3 strips of paper over the first opening, seal the second one tightly with A4 sheet and tape. If the strips are drawn into the channel, it means that air is entering the apartment - the draft is working.

Diagram of a one-story house with possible options for air supply devices
Let's consider the pros and cons of each of the listed methods. The task is to offer you the correct and relatively inexpensive way to organize the influx.

The simplest free method

The essence of the method is to use existing drainage holes in the window profile, designed to drain condensate outside. Two hidden holes where water goes are located on the inside of the frame, the outlets are on the outside of the profile and are closed with plugs, as shown in the photo.

One condition: the method will not work if there is poor traction in the vertical channel. Start by checking the hood and cleaning the ventilation shaft.

The idea of ​​home craftsmen allows you to quickly organize supply ventilation with your own hands without financial costs:

1. Open the window sash and remove the mosquito net.
2. Using a screwdriver, remove both plastic plugs from the outer drain holes.
3. Using a knife, carefully cut out a section of the rubber seal on the upper end of the frame no more than 5 cm long. Close the window.

The operation of this ventilation is based on the following scheme: under the influence of the draft of the ventilation duct, outside air is sucked through the drainage hole, passes inside the profile and enters the gap between the sash and the frame. Having risen to the upper part, the air flow enters the room through the opening in the seal.

In winter, heating of the cold inflow begins in the window structure and ends at the outlet, when the air is mixed with the ascending convective flow coming from the heating radiator. A supply gap is made in a similar way in a plastic balcony door, but with additional trimming of the outer rubber, as shown in the video:

The advantage of this option is zero cost and a real opportunity to ventilate the apartment with the window closed. There are many more disadvantages:

• the air flow cannot be adjusted; strong wind will blow through the gap;
• in summer, unfriendly insects, such as wasps, can settle in open drainage;
• during the warm period, when natural draft decreases due to a small temperature difference, small holes will not allow the required amount of air to pass through.

The last disadvantage: removing part of the rubber seal is only possible on opening sashes. Drilling into blind windows is not an option. Therefore, the method cannot be called correct and cannot be recommended to all homeowners.

Split systems with ventilation function

In addition to heating/cooling modes, household air conditioners from a number of manufacturers are capable of supplying outside air to the room and even operating as an exhaust hood (alternately with the supply air). Why this option is convenient:

• renewal of the air environment in the room occurs forcibly, regardless of the traction force in the shaft;
• the air drawn in by the fan is processed - filtered and heated or cooled;
• flow intensity is adjustable;
• the volume of inflow does not depend on gusts of wind and other weather conditions.

Operating diagram of the indoor unit of the air conditioner

Reference. The air mixture is sucked in by a separate fan located in the internal block of the split system. An additional pipe is laid through the outer wall - an air duct up to 1 m long.

The main problem with the implementation of such air exchange is the high price of the equipment. Buy an air conditioner for each room for 500-600 USD. That is, for the sake of fresh ventilation - it is inappropriate; there are cheaper options. But if you plan to install a split system for cooling, you should think about choosing a unit with air supply and recirculation.

We formed the negative aspects of using an air conditioner as an air supply unit based on reviews from online store customers and forum visitors:

1. The inflow is carried out only when the unit is turned on; the rest of the time the outer channel is covered with a damper.
2. A separate fan, responsible for supplying fresh air mixture, is constantly noisy.
3. Due to rapid contamination, you will have to clean the filters more often.
4. On some models, ventilation and air conditioning modes are incompatible. Air supply and heating are switched on separately.

Note. A detailed guide will help you correctly install a split system in a private house or apartment.

Installing a supply valve in a window

The so-called window ventilator is an oblong plastic cover equipped with an adjustable flap. There are 2 types of valves:

1. Mounted on fixed windows. A through inlet slot is milled into the profile, a protective canopy is screwed on the outside, and a cover with a flow regulator is screwed on the inside.
2. Products for opening sashes. They are installed on the inside of the frame, part of the sealing rubber is replaced with a special material. There is no need to mill the window.

Valve operating diagrams: for opening (left) and closed valves (right)

Reference. Valves allow you to organize the operation of supply and exhaust systems with natural impulses and are designed for all types of translucent structures - PVC, aluminum and wood. Popular brands are Vents, Air-Box and Aereco, price – up to 10 USD. e.

It is advisable to use supply window devices in rooms with good exhaust, otherwise the air supply will be scanty. The declared performance of the valves is about 30 m³/h, which is enough for one person, but not enough for normal ventilation of living rooms.

For the boiler room and bathroom, where the standards provide for more intense air exchange, you will need 3-4 similar products; it is easier to embed the flow grille into the door. Another nuance: the real performance of devices is very different from the declared one.

Calculating the inflow is easy - find out the dimensions of the inlet slot and determine the amount of air passing through it, using our instructions. The result will be less than the promised 30 m³/h (let’s say: no more than 25 cubic meters at a speed of 1 m/s). For 3 family members you will need 4 valves in each room, absurd.

How to install a supply valve on a leaf:

1. Place the body of the product against the upper end of the open frame at the mounting location.
2. Focusing on the edges of the lid, cut off the standard seal; for the Air-Box, the length of the removed section will be 35 cm. A similar piece of rubber must be cut on the main frame, opposite the sash.

3. Insert 3 plastic dowels - clamps - into the groove of the window profile, aligning them with the mounting holes on the cover. Remove the protective tape from the body and screw the valve with self-tapping screws.
4. Instead of the cut seal, glue the elements from the ventilation device kit.

It is more difficult to install a valve in a solid frame - you need to carefully cut a narrow opening in the profile. If you don’t want to contact craftsmen and pay money, make the gap yourself - apply precise markings and drill holes. The visor and inner cover are installed without problems. Brief instructions for installing the product on the sash are presented in the video:

In general, window ventilators are suitable for a small apartment. But in the rooms of a country cottage with high ceilings, the declared performance is not enough. The second negative point: often the PVC window frame is half covered by the upper slope, leaving no room for the valve. Then another technical solution called...

Wall ventilation device

A passive ventilation valve mounted inside a wall consists of the following elements:

• supply pipe with a diameter of 60-150 mm (size depends on the model and performance of the device);
• the outer end of the pipe is covered with a mosquito net and a ventilation grille;
• an adjustment valve is built in at the other end;
• From the side of the room, the pipe is connected to the housing, where an air filter (cleaning class G3) and a heat-insulating gasket are placed.

Note. To prevent condensation from forming inside the channel, a layer of insulation is laid between the wall and the pipe.

As in the previous case, the inflow through the valve is ensured by the vacuum created by exhaust shafts or fans. The products are capable of transmitting 35-60 m³/h of air into the room, depending on the user settings. When you turn on a local hood with a mechanical drive, for example, a kitchen one, the inflow flow will also increase to 70-90 m³/h.

In devices of various brands, there are 2 types of performance regulators - petal and diaphragm, the second will be cheaper. If necessary, any damper can be completely closed. The price of products starts from 15 USD. e., popular, Domovent, Helios and others.

How to install the valve:

1. Determine the location of the ventilation element. The recommendation is as follows: it is better to place low-capacity devices with a Ø60 mm pipe between the window sill and the heating radiator. Place valves with a diameter of more than 10 cm next to the window opening at a height of 2 m from the floor.

2. Make a through hole in the wall using a hammer drill and a set of drills of suitable length. In a frame or wooden house, use core drills. If the room borders on a balcony, it is better to drill from the outside.

3. Cut the pipe to the thickness of the fence, wrap it with Penofol insulation and insert it tightly into the hole. Fill the remaining cracks with foam.
4. From the inside, attach the valve body to the wall, connecting it to the pipe. Place a ventilation grill outside.

Advice. Make the hole as round as possible, guided by the outer diameter of the channel wrapped in insulation. The products are equipped with telescopic sliding pipes; there is no need to cut them. For installation details, watch the video:

The scope of application of passive inflow devices is much wider than ventilation in an apartment or country cottage. The valves can provide air exchange in other ancillary buildings - a bathhouse, a boiler room, a garage with a basement.

There are only two disadvantages: lack of heating of cold air and manual adjustment during operation. In summer the damper opens fully, in winter it is set to minimum. Advantages:

• the valve is suitable for most ordinary users in terms of price and performance;
• incoming air is cleaned by a filter;
• the device does not freeze or become covered with condensation, frost appears on the head in frost below minus 35 °C;
• does not consume electricity, operating costs are minimal.

The heads of the ventilation elements look quite aesthetically pleasing

Ways to increase the efficiency of “inflow”

An effective way to supply air to rooms is to install diffusers. You can purchase new windows with factory diffusers or choose models for wall installation. It is possible to install the device in already installed windows, but this will void the manufacturer's warranty. Typically, one device is sufficient for a room, unless its area exceeds 20 m² (in which case two may be required). The air flow intensity can be adjusted manually or automatically depending on the model. Many devices are equipped with humidity sensors that respond to pressure changes and temperature changes.

Other solutions

The market does not stand still, and today new solutions are being offered. For example, there are recuperation systems that immediately, through one hole in the wall, remove exhaust air and supply fresh air. This is an ideal solution if you have taken care of ventilation after renovation or if you need to solve the problem only in some rooms. The main thing is that these rooms have at least one wall facing the street.

There is a device that removes exhaust air through one hole and takes in fresh air. At the same time, it also heats/cools it

There is only one drawback of this method of organizing ventilation in a house or apartment - the price of such equipment. The cost of one such device is more than $400.

Budget options for restoring air exchange

Ventilation efficiency can be increased using simple and inexpensive devices.

Features of different types of window valves

There are two types of valves:

• with manual regulation;
• with automatic regulation.

Manual adjustment consists of installing a special damper in one of several possible positions. The effectiveness of such diffusers largely depends on the user's actions. Automatic regulation is more productive. These models respond to changes in the pressure difference between inside and outside the room and change the position of the damper.

Example: strong gusts of wind. In this case, the pressure difference increases. The damper in the diffuser closes, preventing excessive inflow of outside air.

Wall model: device and installation

Models intended for installation in the wall are inferior to window valves in popularity, but are also quite in demand. They are a cylindrical body with decorative panels and a filtration system. The devices are placed in an external wall at a height of at least 2 m from the floor or above a heating radiator. Cool air entering the room through the air intakes is warmed by warm air that accumulates under the ceiling. As standard, they have thermal insulation that prevents the formation of condensation on the valve, and a coarse filter. Some manufacturers offer diffusers with an electric heater to preheat the air entering the room.

Fifth stage: additional hood

If increasing the inflow was not enough to freshen the air, then additional exhaust ventilation in the apartment is needed. The principle of its design is simple: either pumping (“pull”) electric fans in vents, or a fan unit in the form of a section of a ventilation duct.

The design of such ventilation for premises for various purposes has its own characteristics:

• Ventilation in the kitchen should draw air through a socket - a catcher above the stove. Otherwise, you won’t be able to get rid of the child. Many kitchen odors spread quickly by diffusion, so the vent (“hood”) should also be equipped with odor neutralizers. They are reliable, durable and not at all hazardous to health, but ultraviolet neutralizers with special lamps consume electricity. The ultraviolet radiation from them is several times less than from the Sun on the beach in summer in mid-latitudes. You need to be careful with chemical neutralizers: even in the products of well-known European manufacturers, carcinogens are sometimes found.
• To save energy, exhaust ventilation in the toilet and bathroom should be turned on simultaneously with the light bulb. If you turn it on/off frequently, the economy light bulb burns out quickly, but it is not needed in the toilet, and is even harmful. A low-power incandescent lamp is better here. It is now considered proven that an uneven, “ragged” spectrum of housekeepers suppresses the peristaltic activity of the intestine, but dim, very warm light with a smooth spectrum, on the contrary, activates it. The lights in the toilet and bathroom turn on infrequently and not for long. However, it depends on who.

• If the ventilation in the toilet and bathroom is made in the form of a common duct with one exit to the main ventilation duct (this is most often done in city apartments), then so that the fans do not wastelessly drive air back and forth, they should have flapper valves. The flapper valve is a lightweight damper that rotates freely on a vertical axis at 75-80 degrees. Any home craftsman can make it himself. When blowing from the box into the room, the firecracker slams shut. And in winter, it will not allow cold air through the main ventilation duct to cool down the rooms where people undress.
• Ventilation in the bathroom, where moisture-saturated air is released into the hood, requires particularly careful selection of the fan.

Video: kitchen ventilation and hood

Choosing an exhaust fan

Ideal in all respects except one (below) - the old Soviet industrial fan VN-2. In terms of dimensions, it just fits an apartment hood. It consumes little electricity - 22 W, and circulates air well: 2.5 cubic meters. m. per hour. “Indestructible” has been working for decades in the most monstrous conditions: in metalworking and foundry shops.

But the "veenka" has a drawback: it is a little noisy. True, it is more of a rustling sound than a noise: quiet, with a soft spectrum, and not sensitive to health. But not everyone will agree to hear rustling above them in the “services”. In this case, you need a modern low-noise fan.

“Real” silent fans are low-speed with saber-shaped blades. Other tricks of consumer aerodynamics, when dust accumulates on the blades, begin to make more noise than industrial ones. And all silent fans consume more electricity than regular fans.

When purchasing a fan, pay attention to the housing material, if it is plastic. Housings made of acrylic and ABC (polyisopropylene) are reliable. Housings made of PVC and other general-purpose plastics do not last long, and a fan with a damaged housing cannot be repaired.

A bathroom fan must be purchased in a moisture-resistant design (the fan must be suitable for outdoor installation).

Ductless forced ventilation

Ductless forced ventilation is a budget-friendly and effective way to organize air exchange in small rooms.

Advanced Wall Valve

The extended configuration model has automatic control, pressure, humidity and temperature sensors. Maintain a constant amount of supply air. They are equipped with deep cleaning filters that remove suspended dust, smog, and pollen. They have a built-in heating device and a laconic decorative panel.

Breezer - compact ventilation unit with climate control

Breezers are “smart” and functional devices with a system for protecting the air from dust, smog, viruses and allergens. They are mounted into the wall and have a multi-stage cleaning system, including HEPA filters. Effectively cope with air supply to a room from 40 to 80 m². Controlled from the front panel and remote control. They have a built-in fan, ionizer and air heater.

Air conditioners with fresh air supply

Air conditioners with fresh air supply replace or effectively supplement the supply ventilation for the apartment. Universal and multifunctional equipment. A standard air conditioner works only with indoor air. This split system has a chamber for mixing fresh air and a pipeline that provides supply.

Price list for installation of ventilation and air conditioning

Supply duct multi-systems

Supply duct multi-systems are multifunctional installations that allow you to effectively restore heat loss and control the operation of the device depending on the microclimate parameters in each room.

The principle of operation of the complex with recovery

Supply and exhaust ventilation with recovery for an apartment are energy-efficient installations that require significant investment, but pay for themselves during operation.

A recuperator is a device that allows you to reduce heat losses during ventilation of premises. The principle of operation of the recuperator: heats the fresh air entering the house with the heat of the exhaust air. The transfer of thermal energy occurs in the heat exchanger. The supply and exhaust flows do not mix.

VAV system - ventilation according to needs

The abbreviation VAV stands for Variable Air Volume. How is this implemented in practice? Special dampers are installed on the supply and exhaust network. Each mechanism is equipped with a drive, electronic and measuring system that responds to pressure drop across the device. Sensors monitor humidity, carbon dioxide concentration and temperature in each room. When changing the specified parameters, the VAV system increases or decreases the air volume in the room. This principle allows flexible control of equipment operation.

Definition and severity of the problem

Ventilation refers to the specially organized movement of air masses. It is necessary to create comfortable and healthy living conditions for humans. In general, the system is very difficult to calculate. There are simply no standard solutions that suit everyone or at least some group of users. Each project is individual. Even the location of one grille or fan plays a role. A lot depends on the position of the house relative to the wind rose and many other little things. For self-designed ventilation to work well, you need to seriously understand.

Ventilation is an organized exchange of air masses, during which exhaust air is replaced with fresh air

So you understand how serious this is

According to sanitary standards, one person at rest processes about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. If the air is not renewed, oxygen becomes less and less, carbon dioxide and other waste products become more and more. As the amount of oxygen decreases, your health worsens. Prolonged lack of oxygen provokes the development of diseases.

A few numbers, physiologists, reflecting the influence of the level of carbon dioxide CO2 on the human condition:

• High quality air - up to 800 ppm, vivacity, ideal well-being.
• Air of average quality - 800 - 1000 ppm. At the upper limit, half of people feel drowsiness, lethargy, decreased concentration and deterioration in the quality and speed of information processing.

  
  Carbon dioxide levels affect your well-being

• Low quality air - 1000-1400 ppm. Lethargy, lethargy, problems processing information, feeling “stuffy.”
• Air unsuitable for life - ppm above 1400. Inability to concentrate, severe drowsiness, fatigue, sleep problems, dry mucous membranes.

Physiologists consider the carbon dioxide content in the air at 1400 ppm to be the lowest point for relatively normal human functioning. All indicators with a large amount of carbon dioxide are already beyond the bounds.

A good example

To assess the severity of the situation without ventilation, we present a graph of CO2 levels. It was filmed as an experiment. To assess how necessary ventilation is in a modern house/apartment with plastic windows and thermal insulation measures taken.

Experimental conditions. Bedroom 13 square meters (37 cubic meters), one person and one medium-sized dog. The house has exhaust ventilation, a riser in the kitchen and in the boiler room. An exhaust fan is installed in the boiler room, which runs on a timer half the night and half the day. There is no air supply, fresh air is available through windows that have ventilation and micro-ventilation functions.

Graph of carbon dioxide concentration levels in a bedroom with a closed window and closed doors.

Information to explain the graph:

• Point 1. From 20 o'clock - work at the computer, doors slightly open, window closed.
• Point 2. The window was opened, the doors were slightly open, everyone left the room.
• Between 1-2 they returned to the room, closed the window, then opened it. All this can be tracked by fluctuations in CO2 levels.
• Point 3. At 3:35 the doors and windows are closed, the man and the dog are sleeping.
• Point 4. 9-20 am, the man woke up. The CO2 level is 2600 ppm, which is significantly below the extreme norm. The window was opened, and the carbon dioxide level returned to normal in less than an hour (Point 5).

As you can see from the graph, most of the night passes with very high concentrations of carbon dioxide. This may be the cause of fatigue and poor health in the morning. In general, everything is clear. If you wish, you can conduct a similar experiment yourself. All you need is a weather station with the ability to measure carbon dioxide levels (with memory). Looking at the results of the experiment, the importance of the ventilation system is difficult to overestimate. Let's figure out how it works.

Standards for apartment ventilation systems

When designing a ventilation system for residential premises, the provisions of SNiP 41-01-2003 and SP 60.13330.2016 should be taken into account. These standards define the minimum amount of air (in m³) that must be removed within an hour. Building regulations contain requirements that apply to every installation, regardless of how it operates. Equally valid for devices operating on natural and mechanical principles.

Minimum volumes of required air exchange:

• 70 m³/hour - kitchen with gas stove;
• 50 m³/hour - kitchen with electric stove;
• 50 m³/hour – bathroom;
• 30 m³/h - separate sanitary unit;
• 30 m³/h - living rooms separated from the kitchen or bathroom by more than two doors or located on another floor;
• 15 m³/hour - utility rooms without windows (pantry, dressing room).

Experts from the engineering company Qwent recommend installing exhaust fans in kitchens and bathrooms that can remove up to 120 m³ of polluted air per hour. At night, you can reduce the ventilation intensity, but not more than 40% of the required norm.

DIY ventilation: action plan

To design a ventilation system yourself, you will have to perform a number of actions. It's easier if the sequence is known.

Preparatory work

Collecting information and basic calculations - this is where the independent creation of a ventilation project begins.

• Calculate the exchange rate in the entire house/apartment. It depends on the volume of the premises (you need to calculate the cubic capacity of each room), their purpose, and the number of residents. According to sanitary standards, the air in residential premises must be changed once per hour, in technical premises (kitchen/bathroom/toilet) - at least three times per hour. There are different standards for boiler houses and they must be taken into account (depending on the type of heating). Adding up all the numbers, we get the required system performance, according to which the cross-section of the exhaust air duct is calculated, and the performance of the ventilation equipment is selected.

  
  First you need to draw how the air will move - from the inflow to the exhaust

• Draw a diagram of the movement of air flows. In this case, you immediately have to estimate the position of the supply and exhaust channels.
• Draw a diagram of the air ducts. No dimensions or details yet, just adhering to the rules and trying to fit into the system without complicating the design too much. This is where everything is complicated, since the air ducts can only be hidden behind a suspended or suspended ceiling. Otherwise they will be open.

Preliminary data is ready. Take some time to think about where and what devices should be located.

Parameter calculations and detailing

When all the issues regarding the scheme have been resolved, it has taken its final form, we proceed to detailing. First, there are also calculations, then you have to look for the components of the system, decide which company to use the equipment and reduce the budget.

• Calculate the cross-section of the air ducts based on the exchange rate, the volume of the room and the speed of “silent” air movement. Otherwise it will be impossible to live.
• Add dimensions to the diagram (can be redrawn).
• Carry out detailing. That is, make a list of necessary system elements indicating the type and cross-section.

  
  Detailing - a detailed list of all required components with dimensions, performance, speed

• Calculate the resistance of each section of the system, select fans (according to the operating point in the characteristic, taking into account the obtained system resistance). Take into account the noise level from the fan operation, take measures to reduce it (select a low-noise model).
• Calculate the cost of system components. Try to combine “cash” with desires. Here you have to change components several times, moving from what you want to what is real.
• We draw a final design with full detail. We must also remember about the units for the passage of ventilation ducts through the walls/ceiling/roof, consumables and insulating materials, ventilation grilles and diffusers, fasteners and all other “little things” that add up to a decent amount.

Installation and configuration

“All that remains” is to find, buy, install. Little has been written, but it will take a lot of effort, time, and nerves to implement this point. Only after this can we say that the DIY ventilation is completely ready.

But that’s not all. Self-made ventilation must be started and adjusted. This is also not the easiest process to achieve coordinated operation of the system as a whole. Then, during operation, reconfiguration has to be done frequently. When the season changes, the number of residents changes, weather conditions change. In general, adjusting the ventilation system is another responsibility of the home owner.

Such holes on the facade are left by supply valves/recuperators

By the way, we advise you to think about it. Do-it-yourself ventilation (meaning installation) will cost less, but it requires more knowledge and time. Knowledge can be gained, but if there is a lack of time, you will have to look for and hire performers, then accept their work.

Which supply ventilation to choose for an apartment

The choice of supply ventilation system equipment depends on several factors:

1. Size and volume of the room.
2. Complexity of planning.
3. The number of people living in the apartment.
4. Equipment that generates heat (office equipment, heating devices).

If you need to organize the inflow locally, in one small room, you can install a window/wall valve or buy a breather. If uniform, regular air exchange in all rooms with control of the volume of incoming air and effective cleaning is important, a supply and exhaust unit will be required.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To improve ventilation on your own, you need to consult with professionals and choose the most economical and effective method.

Expert opinions from specialists:

On the uniform operation of two or more ventilation ducts:

Why are turbo deflectors needed:

How to install the inlet valve:

The natural ventilation mode, characteristic of apartment buildings, is not always fully justified. If the building does not have a forced centralized network, then you can organize the inflow/outflow of air yourself, using household devices.

Installation location and features

We’ll tell you in more detail how to install fresh air ventilation in an apartment. Diffusers and supply grilles should be installed as far as possible from the front door. It is most effective to use the air supply in the upper zone of the room. This arrangement of supply and exhaust elements ensures proper air circulation. If rooms have different ceiling heights (for example, sloping attics), it is recommended to install fresh air ventilation devices at the highest point. In rooms with a ceiling height of more than 3 meters, devices should be located in the area where people are present. Incorrect placement may result in insufficient air flow in ventilated areas. Installing ventilation is a complex process, so we recommend turning to professionals.

How to organize fresh ventilation in an apartment?

A good way to organize additional fresh air flow is to install diffusers. Small ventilation devices are mounted in a window or wall. Devices with hygrocontrol react to excess humidity and close the window when the indicator is exceeded.

Cleaning ventilation grilles can improve draft by up to 60%. As a result, air freely enters the ventilation duct. Hybrid ventilation can also be used. Chimney caps increase negative pressure in the ductwork. The devices use wind energy, stabilize the draft in the chimney and work like rotating hoods. Disadvantage: Only effective when the wind is blowing. You can check the supply ventilation in the apartment, for example, by calling a specialist with professional equipment.

The problem of ineffective natural ventilation is eliminated by using electric exhaust fans. They are mounted at the entrance to the ventilation duct instead of the ventilation grille or in the air duct itself. The efficiency of the fan is greatly influenced by the length and smoothness of the air duct, which determines the resistance to air flow. In rooms without ductwork, fans are mounted in a wall or window. The valve design prevents insects from entering the room and drafts.

How does supply ventilation work in an apartment?

Fresh air enters the room through the air duct system, open windows, and leaky connections. If the ventilation system in an apartment operates on the gravitational principle, the movement of air masses occurs due to temperature differences and gravity. In mechanically driven installations, the flow speed is set by an electrically driven fan.

Why is supply ventilation needed in an apartment?

A controlled flow of fresh air is required for all residential premises. This requirement is enshrined in SNiP and the set of construction rules. Irregular ventilation is not able to ensure high-quality circulation of air masses. Result: headaches, poor health, risk of colds, weakened immunity, inability to concentrate, low productivity.

What problems does the inflow solve?

Supply ventilation provides a regular flow of fresh air into the room. Modern installations are equipped with a multi-stage filtration system. It is possible to install duct coolers or heaters. Mechanical ventilation with recovery is responsible for circulating and heating fresh air with waste heat. The recirculation process takes place in the heat exchanger. The system is optimal for cold climates with a temperature difference of 15°C between the street and the room.

Installation stages

The use of this type of ventilation is relevant in any room - from the bedroom to the kitchen. The number of valves can be selected in this way:

1. 1 valve under each window.
2. 1 valve for every 15-20 “squares” of area.

To install the ventilation valve you will need the following set of tools:

1. Pencil (marker, pen).
2. Hammer.
3. Crown for concrete (diameter – 60 mm).
4. Drill for concrete (diameter – 40 mm).
5. Drill for concrete (diameter – 6 mm).
6. Industrial vacuum cleaner (if not, use a broom and dustpan).
7. Polyethylene (or rags) - to cover the work area.
8. Thick and durable plastic garbage bag.

The product is installed above the battery so that the outlet “looks” at its center. In this case, the distance from the case (or rather, from the outlet) to the radiator must be at least 15 cm.

Drilling a hole for the air duct of the Domvent valve

Now let's look at the process step by step:

1. Marking is carried out: the housing is applied to the wall in the selected location.
2. Mark the center of the hole for the pipe and the holes for the fasteners.
3. Using a crown with a diameter of 60 mm, the wall is drilled to a depth of 7-10 cm. In order not to litter the floor in the room, you should place a bag under the hole (or lay down film/rags).
4. Using a drill with a diameter of 40 mm, the wall is drilled through.
5. A plastic tube is inserted into the hole made. From the outside it should be flush with the surface of the wall, from the inside it should protrude by 7-10 mm. If necessary, the pipe should be cut to the required size.
6. A heat insulator is placed on the end of the tube closest to the room. It should protrude from the hole by about 10 mm, no more. If necessary, excess is cut off.
7. From the outside (from the street) a grate is glued to the tube (this will have to be done while leaning out of the window).
8. Using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, holes for fasteners are drilled.
9. Fastener plugs are inserted into the holes.
10. The valve body is pressed against the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws.
11. An anti-mosquito net and seals are installed in the housing.
12. The housing closes.

The procedure itself, with the participation of two people and the presence of the above-mentioned tool, will take about an hour on average. The cost of installing a Domvent ventilation valve by hired specialists will cost approximately 2,000 rubles.

Installation stages (video)

Care and cleaning

Over time, the use of the product leads to the fact that the seal located inside the housing gradually becomes dirty. It is recommended to clean it approximately once a year. The warm season is best suited for this, since the use of a ventilation valve is primarily relevant in cold weather.

To clean the sound absorber of the Domvent ventilation valve, you need to remove the housing cover, take out the seal and simply shake it several times to get rid of dust. Alternatively, you can do this with a vacuum cleaner (which is much more effective).

If there is too much dirt, you can wash it with a polyf under low-flowing water. In this case, the seal must be dried before installation. After cleaning, the sound absorber is installed back and covered with the housing cover.

Disassembled Domvent valve body

In addition to getting rid of dust, in winter you should pay attention to the condition of the outer grille - in severe frosts it can freeze. To solve the problem, the valve damper must be completely closed until the ice has completely melted.

Reviews about the model

It’s easy to find reviews about this model - many people have already installed it in private houses, apartments, and non-residential premises (offices, workshops, and so on).

Alexey V., 30 years old, Omsk:

About 3 years ago, supply valves were installed in our office so that noise (we are located in an area with constant construction) would not distract people from work. In winter, of course, you have to close it - despite the fact that the valve is located near the battery - the air still comes in cold.

But in the summer it is an irreplaceable thing. There is no need to open the windows, and the air conditioner is also turned on less often.

Dmitry A., 41 years old, Krasnodar:

In our country now, probably, all new buildings are immediately equipped with inlets. Last year we were choosing an apartment, probably looking at 15 options - and almost every new building had valves. The one we chose in the end turned out to be a Domvent: one in each room.

The model is not bad for its price - it has inflow adjustment and insulation (although it is more likely for show - such insulation is of little use, especially in colder latitudes). Well, it doesn’t let in much air - one valve is definitely not enough for the room.

Video description

More about the calculation of ventilation in the video:
Ssection = V * 2.8/w, where Ssection is the cross-sectional area, V is the volume of air mass (m³/hour), w is the air flow speed inside the highway (m/sec) (average from 2 to 3), 2.8 – dimensional matching coefficient.

For installation, it is necessary to calculate how many diffusers (intake and outlet openings) and their parameters are required. The dimensions of the nozzles are calculated based on the cross-sectional area of ​​the main pipeline, multiplied by 1.5 or 2. To calculate the number of diffusers, use the formula: N=V/(2820 * W * d2), where V is the volume of air mass consumed per hour, W is speed of movement of the air mass, D – diameter of the round diffuser.

For rectangular diffusers, the formula is transformed as follows: N=π * V/(2820 * W * 4 * A * B), π is the number pi, A and B are the section parameters.

Useful program

The TURKOV company has developed a program for calculating the necessary parameters and selecting suitable equipment.

In any case, calculations of ventilation systems should be carried out by professionals - if something is forgotten or not taken into account, then the cost of the mistake is the need to redo the calculations and work.

A full calculation of supply ventilation is done using specific software Source ventisam.ru

What formulas are used in calculations

The main parameter that needs to be calculated in any system is how much air should be changed within an hour.

For residential apartments, the value is determined according to the living area: V=2xSxH, where S is the area of ​​the living room, 2 is the coefficient of air mass exchange rate per 1 hour, H is the height of the room.

For work premises, the calculation is made based on the number of personnel: V=Nx35, where N is the number of people simultaneously present in the room.

When calculating the power of a ventilation station, the formula is used: P=ΔT * V * Сv/1000, where V is the volume of air mass consumed per hour, Сv is the heat capacity of the air mass, ΔT is the temperature difference of the air mass at the ends of the pipeline. The accepted value of heat capacity is 0.336 W * h/m³ * °C.

Another important indicator is the cross-sectional area of ​​the duct, measured in square centimeters. There are 2 types of sections: square and round. By calculating the cross-sectional area, it is possible to determine the width and height of a rectangular pipe or the diameter of a round one.

When do you need to think about improving ventilation?

There are several main signs that indicate that the natural ventilation system needs to be updated or completely replaced:

• The air in the apartment is stuffy and stale;
• Washed items took longer to dry;
• A foreign odor enters the rooms from the ventilation ducts;
• There is excessively high humidity in the bathroom;
• Mold and damp spots form in the corners of the room;
• A large amount of condensation accumulates on the windows;
• The aromas of food do not disappear during cooking.

An extremely dangerous “symptom” is the appearance of mold. It is extremely difficult to get rid of it completely. The consequence of its presence in the house can be the occurrence of serious respiratory diseases. You need to be especially careful if small children, pensioners, asthmatics, and simply people in poor health live in the apartment.

As practice shows, problems with natural ventilation in high-rise buildings are mainly caused by blockages in the system and its low productivity. If proper air circulation is disrupted, humidity rises, stuffiness forms, and the microenvironment becomes most favorable for the life and growth of dangerous bacteria. It is simply impossible to lead a normal life in such conditions.