Selection of paints and varnishes for interior painting of a wooden house

The modern market offers a wide selection of different building materials, but wood is still one of the most in demand. It is difficult to imagine a village in which there would not be a house made of timber. Every owner, having built or purchased a similar property, once asks the question: how to paint the inside of a wooden house?

This is necessary to create the foundation of the building's interior and prevent pests from entering. How to paint a wooden house? Next, we will consider the options for various coatings with which you can paint your house.

Why do you need to paint?

Many owners do not paint the walls of their house. Logs look quite aesthetically pleasing, giving the premises a colorful look, but special processing of wooden structures is still necessary. This is done for a number of reasons:

1. The use of specialized mixtures will help reduce the risk of fire.
2. Preventing the process of rotting. By covering the wood with special solutions, you can preserve it in its original form for a long time.
3. The paint coating prevents the appearance of various mechanical defects.
4. Coloring will hide minor imperfections in the material.
5. Applying a paint coating will prevent the appearance of various wood beetles and parasites in the wood.

Wood preservatives

Painting wooden walls is a very difficult task. Before starting work, you should correlate your desires regarding the appearance of your home with the above-mentioned functions of the paintwork. To do this, you need to know the entire list of materials and tools used in this work.

Before you begin applying the decorative coating, you should prepare the work surface for painting. This procedure is divided into three main operations: mechanical cleaning, grinding, and applying protective materials.

There are many different compounds designed to prevent harmful effects on wood. Conventional antiseptic solutions are created to resist fungi and mold that have arisen on wood, and also to prevent their subsequent occurrence. These substances themselves are divided into various aspects.

There are two types of antiseptics - impregnation and coating. The former are deeply absorbed into the beams, protecting them from pests and making them more resistant to external factors. The latter create a special layer on the wooden surface that protects against moisture.

Different types of antiseptics

Depending on what the solution is based on, the following types are distinguished:

• Water-soluble antiseptics are absolutely harmless substances, therefore, ideal for application to interior walls. As a rule, they are used together with water-based paints. A noticeable disadvantage of these substances is the decrease in their protective properties after a certain time.

• Antiseptics using organic compounds have good protective properties, but their use for interior work is contraindicated due to increased toxicity.

• Oil solutions are recommended for treating external walls, especially if you live in an area with bad weather conditions.

• Mixed solutions are a combination of oil and high-carbon elements. They are great for any surface. They are very resistant to all external factors. In fact, these are universal tools. If you have a question about what to coat the surface with before painting, then this is the best choice, although not the cheapest.

Biomoisture protective antiseptics are used to protect wood from harmful formations and parasites. This type of antiseptics allows you to create a kind of protection on the wood surface, while at the same time being a cosmetic element. Therefore, this substance is considered multi-purpose. These antiseptic properties not only save the owner money, but also reduce painting time.

There is another group of protective agents, the so-called fire retardants. They are used to increase the resistance of wood to fire, in other words, material treated with this substance can withstand the action of an open flame for a long time without igniting.

Primers for wood

Wood primer is considered a good means of protection. These compounds protect the material from destruction and, among other things, help the paint penetrate the wood better. Wood bleaching agents are used to remove all kinds of flaws from it - darkening, stains or black highlights.

Together with the whitening of these defects, these substances perform a protective function. They can be one-component or two-component. Two-component products are sold separately (each component separately). Their connection is carried out before starting work.

Preparatory stages

Before applying painting materials to the frame, it should be thoroughly processed. First you need to remove all contaminants from the surface. A brush with soft bristles, a washing vacuum cleaner or an ordinary garden hose are suitable for this. Just be careful not to water the logs abundantly; the tree may become saturated with moisture and will take several weeks to dry.

Grinding

Sanding of the log house cannot be performed immediately after completion of construction work. Wood with high humidity is poorly processed, and any further coating will look unsightly on a poorly polished surface. Therefore, the house must stand for at least a month. It is also recommended to carry out such work at an ambient temperature of no lower than 10–15 °C and no higher than 30 °C. For internal surfaces this circumstance is less critical than for external ones.

Before starting grinding, the log house should be checked for leaks. The result is to caulk possible cracks and gaps left after construction. If this stage is not necessary for houses made of laminated veneer lumber, then log buildings (especially in the crown joints) may have some leaks that must be carefully sealed using acrylic or silicone-based sealants.

Since wood of normal humidity is sanded quite easily, you should not use a massive tool. The optimal power of an angle grinder is 800–1000 W. In this case, the size of the grinding disc must be consistent with the diameter of the rounded log. Preference is given to machines that allow you to adjust the speed of the grinding disc.

When sanding with your own hands, work begins with the back walls and the most even areas: this makes it easier to get used to the tool. When calculating the required time, it is worth remembering that it takes about 5–8 minutes to process one linear meter.

Then you should sand the surfaces of the ends inside and outside the house with sandpaper. This processing stage is quite labor-intensive. The smoother the surface, the easier and faster the protective impregnation of the wood will apply. A grinder with an emery wheel will help speed up the grinding process. To sand wood, you should use two types of sandpaper: coarse and fine grit.

Grinding is performed using circular movements of the disc over all elements of the frame, starting from the top rows. It is not recommended to treat all walls and areas at once - the sanded surface quickly becomes weathered, and therefore requires immediate impregnation with an antiseptic. Therefore, the processing process should be divided into a number of successive stages.

In hard-to-reach places, grinding is done manually - using a chisel.

Antiseptic impregnation

Logs require immediate surface coating with anti-rot compounds, which should be done immediately after sanding. For this purpose the following can be used:

1. Bioprotective compounds that protect wood from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation and also increase the moisture resistance of wood.
2. Fire retardants that provide adequate fire protection for your home. They are carcinogenic substances, so special precautions are required when handling them!
3. Combined preparations that combine both fire-resistant and moisture-preserving impregnations. For example, acrylates are substances that, when painting a surface, simultaneously increase its resistance to adverse external factors.
4. Antiseptic compounds. Antiseptics for internal and external use are produced separately.
5. Compositions that destroy tree pests. For this purpose, fumigation (fumigation with special generators) is used after grinding. To do this, it is better to invite specialists. Also, to combat wood borers, they are treated with ultrasonic fields. In the interior of log houses, you can use a regular microwave oven with the door open, but you should be careful - it is dangerous.

Fire-, bio- and moisture-resistant impregnations are applied in 2 layers and left for 10–14 days for complete absorption and distribution throughout the wood.

In order to save money, you can use the “old-fashioned” secrets of processing a house made of logs. Wax and turpentine have long been used in equal proportions to protect against rodents. The inside of the log house can be treated with starch or laundry soap.

Machine oil can be used as a water-repellent layer on the outside.

General recommendations

How to paint a wooden house from the inside? Every homeowner has asked this question at least once in their life. Painting a log house is not an easy task. Many owners, doing this themselves, skip the preparatory stage and immediately proceed to painting.

Because of this error, various troubles with painted surfaces are possible, for example, wood rotting and the appearance of parasites in it. You need to paint the wood according to the above description. Therefore, painting timber and timber houses will take a lot of time and effort.

Paint for the interior decoration of a wooden house must be environmentally friendly, dry quickly and have no odor. The decorative finishing of a room, as well as its design, directly depends on the correct choice of this material. When choosing paint, carefully study the labels and consult with store clerks.

Painting tips (1 video)

Different types of paints and varnishes (31 photos)

How to coat a log house after sanding

Question:

Good afternoon, Semenych! Please tell me, in the spring of 2018, a log bathhouse was installed from a winter Siberian forest (diameter 36-48), the lower three crowns are made of larch, the top is pine. The roof and ceiling were done almost immediately after the frame was built. Now we sandblast it.

The question is what to cover after sanding (primer, bioprotection, fire protection), in what order and in how many layers. We want to coat the outside with matte or semi-matte varnish. Which products are better - there are many manufacturers, and prices vary. Please advise.

Best regards, Elvira, Irkutsk.

Answer:

Hello, Elvira from Irkutsk!

In our practice, we most often cover the outer surfaces of log houses with belinka, tecurilla, and penotex.

True, sandblasting is far from the best option. We prefer to grind with conventional angle grinders; they leave less abrasive on the surface of the logs.

However, if after any type of sanding you walk over the logs with brooms, mops or a vacuum cleaner, there will be much less of this abrasive.

Builders do not have a unanimous opinion regarding the order of operations for coating wood with specific compositions.

Some first treat with antiseptics, which include both fire and bio protection, then apply a primer, and only then paint and coat with colorless varnish. Others do not use this order.

There are now a lot of different compounds on the market, I wouldn’t like to advertise them. In each case, you should carefully read the instructions on their labels. In this case, the most important thing is that all subsequent compositions are compatible. Because sometimes this is not the case, and after a year or two, or even a shorter time, the layers begin to separate from each other, crystallization of salts, their peeling, cracking, etc.

As a rule, brands from more well-known manufacturers, preferably imported rather than home-grown ones, have higher quality and longer-lasting characteristics. Although sometimes I had to run into expensive counterfeits of domestic “Kulibin” ones.

As they say, there are no comrades according to taste and color. But choosing colors and shades of dyes is also a difficult decision.

No matter how high-quality the dye is, over time (when after a year or two, when after five, or even ten years) it can still change its color tone. Atmospheric environment - rain, fog, dew, snow, etc. doing their job.

Most often, darker colors (like rosewood) are less susceptible to changes over time compared to lighter colors (pine or Oregon).

But not everyone likes dark colors, too gloomy, lighter ones are much more pleasant.

When you paint it in a light tone, it can darken very quickly and it happens that you can’t look at the logs of such a log without tears.

Just for fun, walk around and look at the wooden houses with different colors. I'm sure you'll notice the differences right away. And only then make a decision.

Varnish finishes are generally the right choice because the varnish fills the pores left after painting and the wood is less affected by the atmosphere.

So read everything I have said and take action. I understand that I’m not giving you definitive recommendations, but what you read shouldn’t make things worse.

In any case - good luck!

The method of applying the compositions is also important. The use of compressor devices for spraying them is productive, but the traditional old method of rubbing in with brushes, although a slower process, is of higher quality.

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Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

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• How to properly assemble a log house
• Octagonal timber frame
• Is a fifth wall needed in a log house?
• An alternative to dowels when assembling a log house
• Problems after shrinkage of the log house
• What to make partitions from in a log house
• Tongue-and-groove slabs as walls in a log house
• Insulation of the log house inside
• How to strengthen floor joists in a timber frame
• Log houses in Kolomna
• House made of timber or frame house
• Insulation of a log house from the inside
• Work plan after shrinkage of the log house
• Squeezed logs out of the log house
• Where to start after installing a log bathhouse
• Rounded log with Finnish profile
• The timber frame is spreading
• How to align the geometry of a log house
• Large gaps between logs

Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

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• Are dowels needed for profiled timber?
• Is it worth overpaying for profiled timber?
• Repairing the corners of a log house
• How to cover an unfinished log house for the winter
• The beam bends out of the log house
• Construction of a log house in the rain
• Processing and insulation of external walls of a log house made of timber
• How far can the outer ends of the logs be trimmed?
• Ceiling beams 7.5 m in a house made of timber
• How to attach a room attached to a house
• Technology for assembling a log house from timber
• Waterproofing log walls outside
• Replacement of the lower crown of an old house
• Interior finishing of the corners of the log house in the paw
• Dry brown rot in log timber
• Shrinkage of timber frame
• Roof on only installed log house
• How to fill the gaps between the log house and the outbuilding
• When to install a log house for a house
• How far can the ends of logs be trimmed?
• When should a log house be treated with impregnation?
• Cutting the end corners of the log house
• Leveling timber in a log house
• Protection of the log frame from the outside
• Replacing log walls with stone
• How to seal the gaps between the foundation and the log house
• How to cover a timber house
• How and with what to seal the gap between the foundation and the log house
• Bark on logs - to remove or not?
• Sandwich panel or log house?
• Preservation of log wood
• How to change the lower crown
• Settlement of a log house made of laminated veneer lumber
• Log house repair
• What kind of foundation is needed for a log house made of 9 by 12 m timber?
• How much timber is needed for a log house 9 by 12 meters
• Foundation for a log house with chopped gables
• When to put a roof on a log house
• How to seal cracks in a timber frame
• Log house on the spring
• Preparing a log house for winter
• Oak backing for the lower crown of the log house
• Log house repair
• Photo of a chopped log house

Log houses and their maintenance

All questions to Semenych about construction

Semenych (author of materials)

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Apartment renovation in Moscow and Moscow region

We work with a guarantee!
Wide range of repair work. Professional craftsmen.

+7 (905) 797-20-34

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