White eurolining in a modern garage Many of us, when talking about a garage, imagine a dark room, reminiscent of a crypt, at best, covered with cement plaster. This was the case before, until beautiful and practical finishing materials became more accessible to the average person.
Today, a modern garage is not only a place to park your favorite car and a workshop, but also a place where many people like to spend hours with friends or alone with themselves. One of the excellent finishing solutions is lining the garage with clapboard. This is exactly what we will talk about in this article.
What materials are suitable for cladding?
When choosing the interior lining of a garage, it is worth considering not only its appearance and cost. Materials used in the garage should be:
- non-flammable; non-absorbent of odors and dirt; resistant to chemical influences - if solvents, oils or fuels get in, the casing should not react with them; resistant to physical impact - the casing should not be scratched or cracked due to accidental impacts; easy to maintain - with The sheathing should be easy to wash off stains and dust.
There are many materials on the market today that meet these requirements. The most common is plaster. Advantages of plaster:
- low cost; possibility of application without the involvement of specialists; ease of repair; compatibility with any walls and ceiling.
Disadvantages of plaster:
- the need for serious cleaning after application: labor-intensive; time-consuming; subsequent painting is desirable.
Plastic panels are the second most popular way to decorate garage walls. The material has a low cost and is simply attached to the walls and ceiling, leaving no dirt or dust in the room after installation.
The disadvantages of using plastic panels include:
- the need for sheathing; reduction of garage space by 6-8 cm on each wall; poor thermal insulation; low resistance to physical impact; cabinets can be attached to the walls or shelves can be hung only in those places where the sheathing passes.
You can cover the walls in the garage with plasterboard. It has the following advantages:
- ease of installation; affordable price; the ability to mask communications and layers of insulation; absence of dirt during the covering process; lightness of the material.
Disadvantages of using drywall to decorate the interior walls of a garage:
- Suitable only for dry rooms; Requires painting or other finishing; Requires installation of sheathing.
Wooden panels or lining are also quite often used by car owners to decorate their garages with their own hands.
This material is inexpensive, looks great, is easy to install and does not leave dirt after working with it. In addition, wood retains heat well and is completely safe for health. But there are also disadvantages to wood-based finishing materials:
- flammability; absorption of odors; susceptibility to rotting.
You can sheathe the inside of the garage with OSB (oriented strand board).
OSB contains shavings and a special resin, which retains all the advantages of wood and makes it impervious to chemicals and odors, non-flammable and resistant to moisture.
The main disadvantage of OSB is the presence of phenol in the resin that holds the chips together.
The content of harmful substances is strictly regulated, but compliance with the regulations is difficult to verify.
Also, PVC lining is often used for lining the inside of the garage. Its difference from plastic panels is in appearance - it looks like wood, and in the presence of special grooves that facilitate installation. In addition, PVC lining is painted completely, and plastic panels are painted only on one side.
Ceramic tiles are a very common material, but quite suitable for finishing a garage. The only arguments against its use can be the complexity of installation, the high price and the requirements for structural strength - only a permanent garage with strong walls can be finished with tiles.
IMPORTANT: When finishing a new garage with tiles, you must wait 0.5-1 year from the end of construction - the building will shrink and tiles laid ahead of time may crack.
There are many advantages of ceramic tiles:
- durability; aesthetics; complete immunity to chemicals; ease of maintenance; non-flammability.
To finish the garage ceiling, OSB, lining, plywood, plastic panels and, of course, plaster can be used.
For the floor, ceramic tiles, rubber coating, painted concrete base or polymer flooring (the most expensive option) are more suitable.
Decorating the inside of the garage with your own hands - photo:
How to finish it yourself?
How to line a garage from the inside? When decorating a garage yourself with clapboard or PVC panels, you will need:
- finishing materials; wooden beam or metal profile for lathing; stepladder; painting knife; screwdriver; level; tape measure; hammer; hacksaw.
Read here about how to make repairs in your garage yourself.
Lining made of wood or plastic is durable and beautiful. However, wood can deteriorate from moisture, absorb odors and attract rodents. The application of a special protective coating allows you to avoid these problems and increase the service life of wooden lining.
After drying, the lining can, if desired, be treated with stain or varnished - this will create an additional protective layer and make the color of the wood brighter. Plastic lining does not require additional processing.
When choosing a tree, take into account its characteristics: coniferous wood can release resin when the room temperature rises, ash will have to be varnished more often - it is afraid of moisture, and larch is ideal for damp, unheated rooms.
Installation of any type of lining occurs after completion of all electrical work and installation of thermal insulation.
The first stage of cladding is creating the sheathing.
When decorating a garage, wooden beams measuring 5x5 cm are most often used as a material for this purpose, although a metal profile is also suitable.
The timber is secured at a distance of 0.5 m with screws or self-tapping screws.
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine how the lamellas (lining plates) will be laid and place the battens perpendicularly.
The direction of the slats can visually change the size of the room, but if this is not critical when decorating a garage, then the ability to combine horizontal and vertical placement on one wall can be useful - for short “vertical sections” you can use the remaining trim from the ceiling lining.
Ways to fix the lining:
- staples; clamps; screws; nails.
The choice depends solely on the preferences of the garage owner.
IMPORTANT: When using nails or screws to fix the lining, their heads must be recessed into the material.
When covering walls in a horizontal direction, it is better to start work from the top - in this case, debris will not get into the grooves intended for connecting the lamellas. When choosing a vertical option, work begins from the corner, and when covering the ceiling, from the door or window opening.
The cladding is carried out according to the algorithm: tongue-and-groove connection, securing the element in the chosen way. You can adjust the boards with a hammer if you hit not the lamella, but a specially placed piece of wood.
Every 10-15 elements it is necessary to check the evenness with a level or plumb line. The width of the last board must be reduced with a hacksaw to the desired size.
Stains
Various types of stains are applied to any wooden surface. Helps disinfect wood and gives it special shades, in accordance with brands: for example, “oak”, “ash”, “walnut” and so on.
According to the composition, which determines in what cases and with what to cover the lining, there are:
- Water-based: in powder form for self-preparation, in containers for immediate application. This coating is purely decorative and requires additional protection with varnishes and enamels.
- Alcohol stains - also available in powder and ready-to-use. They dry quickly and do not allow the wood to swell, unlike water-based compounds.
- Oil-based stains are quite versatile, they allow you to change color by adding coloring powder, and do not change the moisture content in the structure of wooden products.
- Acrylic - well suited for residential premises, non-toxic, and the resulting coating layers do not burn. Dries quickly.
- Wax-based - this stain can be applied to an already painted surface. A wax film is created to protect against moisture. Cannot be used in combination with two-component varnishes.
- Treating lining with stains comes down to using the rubbing method if the wood is porous. Then the composition will fill all microcracks in the structure.
Spraying, if possible, is an economical option, but you need to have the appropriate skill, equipment, and you will have to cover unpainted surfaces.
The easiest way to carry out the intended operation of covering the lining is to use a roller or brushes.
The peculiarity of applying stain to conifers is the need to remove resinous substances. To do this, you will have to make a special composition from a mixture of acetone, an aqueous solution of soda ash and caustic soda.
When applying stain, avoid moving across the grain. Each layer should be dried and any lint should be removed with fine sandpaper. A total of two to four layers are applied.
Oil stains dry in about 3 days, others - up to 3 hours.
When applying stain, periods of high humidity should be avoided. For example, if it rains in summer, it is better to postpone work until another day, since the quality of the coating may deteriorate greatly due to the presence of a large number of moisture particles in the air.
The compositions are applied as the last decorative layer for external surfaces. It is assumed that the stain (if it was planned to be used) has already been applied and dried.
Varnishes can be transparent or translucent. The first type makes sense to use if stain was used to tint the surface, or in cases where it is necessary to preserve the natural texture of the wood.
How to treat the lining can be determined based on the composition of the varnish. They are:
- Alkyd;
- Acrylic;
- Nitrovarnishes;
- Epoxy;
- Polyurethane.
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Alkyd-based compositions are suitable for external use, as they protect well from moisture, while penetrating deeply into wooden surfaces, and, as a result, take a long time to dry, up to three days.
Acrylic varnishes, mostly colorless, provide less protection from external influences, but they are non-toxic and suitable for indoor use. They are available both water-based and diluted with organic solvents. Universal scuba tanks Tikkurila and Pinotex are common, they have increased resistance to mechanical stress, and are therefore used even for floor coverings.
Nitrovarnishes are much cheaper than others, but during application you will have to ensure good ventilation to avoid poisoning. Although after drying the layers do not emit harmful substances, they are afraid of heating; it is better to use them in rooms where these factors will not matter - in utility rooms, when finishing loggias, and so on.
Epoxy varnishes are often recommended by professionals. The coating will provide good protection from all types of external influences, but the cost of 1 square meter of treated surface will be higher than that of other compounds.
Polyurethane varnishes are available in matte, glossy, different colors, and also transparent. There are one-component, ready-to-apply mixtures, as well as two-component ones, consisting of a base and a hardener. The composition adheres well even to a polished surface, is very resistant to various aggressive environments, even the wooden elements of sea yachts are coated with polyurethane varnishes. A special feature during application is the precise time between layers, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Otherwise, the overdried layer of varnish will have to be matted with sandpaper.
The application technology is the same as for other types of protective mixtures. Use a brush, roller or spray. When varnishing by hand, you should move along the grain.
If varnish is the only type of coating, without the use of stain, then preliminary priming is recommended, in accordance with the type of varnish composition.
PVC panels
PVC panels can be mounted on wooden or plastic sheathing. In this case, the plastic is attached to the wall at a distance of 25-35 cm, and the wooden beam - 50-60 cm.
Fastening the panels starts from the corner. Having secured the first panel with self-tapping screws, insert the next one into the groove and secure it.
The last panel of the wall or ceiling must be inserted into the U-shaped profile and only then attached to the frame.
PVC panels can be placed horizontally or vertically on the wall, and on the ceiling along the longest wall.
The last stage of the cladding is the installation of skirting boards and securing the corners.
Practical advice from the master
Eurolining must be varnished in one layer before installation.
If you decide to cover a garage box with clapboard, then you need not only to know the installation technology, but also some tricks of the job.
- If the slats are laid along the ceiling, the room will visually become longer; if the slats are placed crosswise, the garage will appear wider.
- The planks for creating the frame must be smooth, there should be no knots or splits.
- Walls and ceilings that have unevenness must be leveled at the stage of attaching the frame.
- If the finishing used was not eurolining, but simple, then inspect it for roughness. If there are any, they need to be sanded. It is better to varnish a simple lining in two layers; for euro-lining, one is enough.
- If electrical (and sometimes plumbing) work is necessary, it must be completed before the sheathing begins.
- The sheathing can be treated with an antiseptic and then the sheathing process can be carried out.
- The last rail may turn out to be wider than necessary, so in this case it needs to be loosened to the desired width and secured with self-tapping screws.
- To hide the seams and connections, you can use decorative cladding in the form of corners and strips.
If you don’t know which garage finish to choose, then take a closer look at the lining. Sheathing the ceiling and walls with clapboard is not so difficult, but the sheathing will last you for many years. Cover the garage box with plastic or wood if desired and get a reliable finish and an aesthetic appearance.
Plaster
You can plaster the walls of the garage with ready-made mixtures, which are sold in construction stores.
The packaging of the mixture indicates for what conditions it is suitable, so the choice will not be difficult. The only disadvantage of ready-made mixtures is the rather high price. Preparing the solution yourself, even if you buy all the ingredients, is much cheaper.
It is not difficult to make a solution for plastering a wall garage; the main thing is to decide in advance which composition of the solution is most suitable.
Lime-based plaster is cheaper than cement plaster; it adheres well to the work surface and hardens quickly. Lime-based solutions are suitable for dry garages - such plaster quickly deteriorates from moisture.
To obtain a good solution, the components included in it must be thoroughly mixed. In the absence of a concrete mixer, a drill with a mixer attachment can cope with this task. It is extremely difficult to knead plaster by hand.
To prepare a lime mortar, slaked fluff lime is mixed with water to obtain a creamy mass and filtered through a sieve to remove impurities. Sand is added to the resulting lime milk in a ratio of 1:5. The mass is thoroughly mixed and diluted with water to the consistency of a thick dough.
If you want to get a stronger plaster, add cement to the finished solution: 1 part per 10 parts of the prepared mixture.
Then the solution is diluted again with water and mixed. This type of plaster is afraid of dampness and temperature changes.
Low-quality components can ruin the work, so it is better to purchase river or construction sand without foreign impurities with a fraction of up to 2 mm.
You can get a quick-drying mixture by adding gypsum to lime plaster: 1 kg. gypsum per 5 kg of mixture. This solution sets in 40-50 minutes - you need to prepare it in small portions.
You can plaster a garage with a clay-based solution almost free of charge if there is a clay quarry nearby.
To prepare the solution, the clay is soaked for several (optimally a day) hours, mixed thoroughly and all impurities are removed. Add small sawdust to the resulting creamy mass - 1 part of the mixture per 3 kg. sawdust
The strength of the composition can be increased by adding 1 kg of cement to the mass. by 10 kg. solution.
The most popular method of preparing a plaster mixture is cement-based. To prepare it, thoroughly mix the dry ingredients - cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5-6. Mortars for interior work may contain more filler (sand), but the garage may be damp, so you should not save much on cement.
REFERENCE: Fresh cement has the maximum astringent effect. If a problem surface is being plastered, it is better if the cement was produced no more than a month ago.
The mixture of dry ingredients is diluted with water, adding it little by little. For preliminary spraying of walls you need a liquid solution, for subsequent application - a thick one.
You can add plasticity to cement plaster by adding a lime or clay mixture to it.
You can also use a ready-made plasticizer or use the simplest option: pour dishwashing detergent or liquid soap into the solution. At 10 kg. pour 1 capful of the product into the finished mixture and mix.
Plaster consumption is 15-18 kg.
per 1 sq. m. with a layer thickness of 1 cm.
The first stage of plastering walls is primer. The surface is covered with a solution diluted to a liquid state and allowed to dry completely.
Then beacons are installed - aluminum or galvanized profiles 2.5-3 m long and 4-10 mm high, which are attached to the wall with the same solution at a distance of 10 cm less than the length of the building code used.
The prepared solution is applied with a spatula between the attached beacons slightly above their level. The filled opening is leveled by applying the rule from bottom to top and removing excess mortar.
If shells remain on the surface, they are filled and the surface is leveled again using the rule. The operation is repeated until the surface is smooth. Then they begin work on the next opening.
Before plastering the ceiling, a metal mesh is attached to the surface, and the plastering itself is carried out in two layers - this avoids cracking and shedding of the plaster.
You shouldn’t put off finishing the interior of your garage for too long—it’s not at all difficult to do.
Correction of defects
Sooner or later, various unpleasant things will happen to the coating of wooden surfaces: cracking of layers, mechanical abrasion, peeling.
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The question of how to treat the lining in such cases is sometimes solved using non-standard methods.
Due to the complex configuration of the panels, problems may arise with the complete removal of old defective layers. This is a very labor-intensive process. It is better to remove loose pieces by lightly sanding the surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper (or an abrasive sponge) and apply paint that will cover the entire surface. It is recommended to use organic solvent based paints, but not water based ones.
If minor mechanical damage appears on the wooden panels - potholes or cracks, you can “save” the lining slats by using putty. It is either purchased or made independently, based on wood glue and small wood shavings, after which you need to level the planes using a flat block wrapped in sandpaper and apply 1-2 layers of paint.
If there are many defects on the surface of wooden elements - swellings and cracks, you need to figure out what caused them, and after that you will have to completely or partially disassemble the structure and replace the damaged panels.
Thus, the choice of varnishes, impregnations and paints for deciding how to coat the lining is quite large. If in any doubt, it is better to consult with professional builders who specialize in working with wooden materials.
Types of lining
First, let's look at the main types of lining. Craftsmen often divide the material into two types. The lining can be “regular” or “euro”.
Everyone knows that the so-called eurolining not only differs in parameters, thickness and width, but also in quality itself. This material is better processed, easier to install, and looks more aesthetically pleasing. Conventional lining is also in demand because it has its own significant advantage: with decent technical characteristics, it attracts at an affordable price.
Lining is made from various types of wood, both deciduous and coniferous. Hardwood material is more suitable for interior finishing work. Coniferous species are equally suitable for interior and exterior decoration.
The lining is divided into grades. Experts note that grade “C” is also quite suitable for finishing the inside of a garage, since there are no special, very high requirements for its appearance and design.
In addition, there is a special plastic lining. It allows you to achieve good results, while installation is even easier and faster.
Advantages of lining
Let's pay attention to the key advantages of lining as a finishing material for a garage.
The lining is environmentally friendly. It does not emit toxic compounds and is completely safe for health. The material is easy to process.
For example, the lining is tinted, giving it almost any desired shades. This finish is attractive due to its durability. It practically does not rot. Even planks made of wood are not afraid of moisture, since they are subjected to special treatment. There is no need to specially prepare the surface for clapboard covering.
However, craftsmen still advise making a special frame to speed up the installation process and make the final surface more durable. Hidden communications, such as wiring, can be installed under the material without any problems. If you finish it with clapboard, the room will acquire good sound and thermal insulation properties. Moreover, the method is economical. You immediately receive a finishing layer, as well as properties that are useful from a practical point of view.
It is noteworthy that almost anyone can handle the installation of lining, without special training or professional skills. The main thing is to remember useful recommendations. Now we will learn how to line a garage with clapboard correctly.
We cover the garage with clapboard. Special finishing requirements
Let's consider the special requirements that apply to finishing in a garage.
Tools, as well as spare parts, parts and equipment, and flammable substances are often stored in garages. That is why experts note that first of all, the emphasis should be placed on the level of fire safety.
It is necessary to sheathe the ceiling and walls with materials that do not support combustion. For example, wood paneling is specially treated with additional fire retardants. It is important to monitor the difference in temperature in the garage and outside. There is no need to specifically cool or heat the room.
It is advisable to reach an acceptable temperature before carrying out repairs. Thermal insulation will help here. Another essential requirement is ease of operation. Garage finishes should be easy to clean.
It is generally quite difficult to keep a garage clean. When the weather gets cold outside, the likelihood of condensation increases sharply. This has an extremely negative impact on finishing materials. It is advisable to choose sheathing that is resistant to rot and is not susceptible to the formation of fungus.
Of course, clapboard cladding becomes the optimal solution. In this case, you need to take care of the correct choice of material.
Some people prefer wooden lining, while others choose plastic. Each type of material has its own advantages. If you decide to start lining your garage with clapboards, you will need a level and tape measure, a hammer and hacksaw, and a screwdriver.
Properties of wooden lining
Let us immediately note an important point. Wooden lining can have different technical characteristics: everything here will depend on the type of wood, type of wood and the material itself. Let's consider the general properties that unite lining made of different types of wood.
Wood is able to regulate and establish the indoor microclimate.
When the garage ceiling and walls are lined with wood clapboard, this guarantees an optimal level of vapor permeability. This makes the room more comfortable and provides a healthy climate. When winter is severe, long and cold, the level of heat and sound insulation is of great importance. Just wooden lining will provide excellent performance.
It even allows you to save on energy. It is very important that the finish in your garage is resistant to mold and mildew. And here the leading positions are occupied by coniferous trees. Such wood contains resins, which make it resistant to destruction. It is worth remembering that wooden lining has average characteristics in terms of moisture resistance.
The planks must be additionally treated with a moisture-protective agent and also coated with a special varnish. Of course, such coverage will need to be updated regularly. The frequency of processing depends entirely on the type of wood.
Craftsmen note that ash is more sensitive to humidity. But larch has an interesting property: it only becomes stronger when exposed to moisture. That is why it can be used to decorate buildings even on the outside.
Of course, material with such properties enjoys steady popularity. True, wooden lining now has a competitor - plastic lining.
Characteristics of plastic lining
Plastic lining appeared on the market not so long ago, but has already gained popularity and trust. Such plates are made from polyvinyl chloride. Here are its main technical properties.
- The lining is not afraid of rotting, mold and mildew. The material is not afraid of rodents, it does not breed microorganisms. Plastic provides a decent level of fire safety. This type of finish is easy to care for: plastic lining is easy to clean, you can simply wipe it down or do a wet cleaning.
True, if we talk about thermal insulation and noise protection, plastic lining is significantly inferior to wooden finishing material.
How to cover the outside of a garage door
It is advisable to finish the sashes from the inside and outside. In the first case, we lay insulation. Exterior finishing involves improving the appearance of garage doors and additional insulation.
Building diagram
The external surface is finished using the following materials:
- wood-laminated boards (plywood);
- profiled metal sheets (corrugated sheets);
- thin cladding boards (lining);
- facing panels (siding).
Installation of lining
When choosing thermal insulation products, they take into account condensate indicators and dew point temperature (the temperature of the air at which the steam it contains condenses into dew).
Installation technology
Be careful during installation. When you use plastic lining, it is mounted with a tongue and groove, but wooden planks are secured with layering. Remember the algorithm.
First of all, you need to make the crate.
A wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile will suit you as the main material. Consider the placement of the slats. It depends on the method of laying the lining.
When the planks are laid vertically, the sheathing should be horizontal, and if the lining is attached horizontally, the lattice should be made vertically. You can fasten the sheathing with self-tapping screws and nails. Are you planning additional insulation? Then a layer of thermal insulation must be fixed between the slats.
First, waterproofing is laid, then insulation, and only then vapor barrier. A good insulation option is mineral wool. Start sheathing from the bottom up. Try to fit the plates together tightly. When using wooden lining, craftsmen advise additionally filling the seams with a sealing compound. Wooden lining must have a finishing coat of fire-resistant varnish.
Preparation of products
First you need to inspect the lamellas, set aside those that have large defects: cracks, eyes and knots. They can be partially used by cutting off the defective piece.
Those panels that are suitable for installation should be cleaned of dust and dirt; sand it thoroughly with medium and fine sandpaper, simultaneously identifying the presence of possible areas that are already affected by fungus or mold. If such areas exist, they are treated with bleaching compounds.
It is advisable to carry out this procedure over all lining boards that will be installed, on both sides.
The following operations depend on how the problem will be solved - how to process the lining.
Useful video: mastering the principle of working with lining
You will definitely find this helpful video useful. Watch the following video to understand all the key rules for working with this material. You must be able to handle the lining correctly and install it correctly.
If you are careful and act wisely, this lining finish will last for many decades, maintaining its excellent technical characteristics.
The garage, even when it is located in the same building as the house, has a direct technical purpose, so completely different requirements are imposed on its arrangement. Not all materials that can be used in a residential area are suitable for finishing and repairing a garage. One of the most successful solutions is to line the garage with clapboard.
The lining meets all technical requirements for garage cladding.
Finishing requirements: features
What are the requirements for a garage box:
The difference between the outside temperature and the temperature in the box should not be large; for this reason, the box does not need to be additionally heated or cooled.
If you plan to carry out renovation work indoors, then the internal temperature should be more or less acceptable; this is achieved through good thermal insulation. Often, a lot of spare parts and tools, and sometimes flammable substances, are stored in the garage. It is better to sheathe the walls and ceiling with either poorly burning materials or (ideally) non-flammable ones. Fire safety should be a priority. During the cold season, there is a possibility of moisture accumulating in the form of condensation, which is detrimental to materials, so preference should be given to those that are resistant to rot and are not susceptible to moisture. It is not so easy to maintain cleanliness in the garage, so cladding should be easy to care for.
When calculating the amount of lining, you need to remember that its length does not always coincide with the width of the ceiling or the height of the room.
Covering a garage with clapboard is an excellent solution, you just need to choose it correctly.
The lining can be made of plastic or wood, both types have their advantages. The installation principle is the same for both types; you can easily do it yourself. When choosing lining, you need to proceed from the specific needs and characteristics of the room.
Tools you will need:
- tape measure; level; hacksaw; hammer; screwdriver.
Latex paints
When choosing how to treat the lining, an important factor is the absence of odor and the need for careful surface preparation. From this point of view, a good option would be to use latex paints. They can even be applied to plastic parts.
Such compositions dry quickly (no more than two hours), the resulting coating has excellent air permeability, which is important for residential premises. And, at the same time, they create a barrier to moisture and steam.
However, there are also negative sides:
- With prolonged exposure to low temperatures, the layers may begin to crack;
- In the latex itself, bacteria multiply intensively, so it is not advisable to use it for rooms with high humidity, or to use additional protective compounds for wood;
- The cost of such paints is quite high.
When processing lining, a brush or roller is most often used.
Wood lining: characteristics
The quality characteristics of wooden lining largely depend on the type and species of wood. Of course, mahogany is unlikely to be used for these purposes, but you should not deprive it of attention: its qualities are quite suitable, and mostly red species can be used. What qualities does wood lining have:
Wooden lining is distinguished by its maximum performance in terms of heat and sound insulation.
The highest possible indicators for sound and heat insulation. An ideal option for harsh, long winters. Wood has the unique property of creating and regulating the microclimate in any room. If the walls and ceiling of the box are covered with wooden clapboard, then you don’t have to worry about vapor permeability.
Wood is able to provide the necessary degree of comfort. Moisture resistance indicators are average, so before starting work it is necessary to treat the slats with a moisture-protective agent and open them with varnish. Periodically, the coating will have to be renewed, the frequency will depend on the type of tree, for example, ash has a negative attitude towards changes in humidity, and larch, on the contrary, does not react to the effects of water, so it can even be used to decorate the outside of a building. An important point is the degree of resistance to fungus and rot. To improve performance, treatment with special substances is required. In this regard, coniferous species outperform deciduous species due to the resin content in them.
Types of funds
Coverings for lining are divided into two main groups: protective and finishing (decorative). The first group includes compounds that have different working functions. Some are impregnations, others are covering materials. Both of them create a barrier against negative external factors.
Impregnations suitable for lining:
- covering soil;
- stain;
- wax;
- oil;
- specialized impregnation;
- antiseptics;
- drying oil;
- bleach;
- fire retardant
Covering finishing materials act as a decorative layer, simultaneously serving as both protection and decoration. When there is no desire to cover up the wood pattern and its color, the coating composition is chosen from among the following translucent options:
- glossy or matte clear varnishes;
- tinted clear varnishes;
- translucent varnishes;
- wax;
- aqualak on acrylic;
- translucent enamel;
- decorative azure.
For other cases, in which the natural color, texture and pattern of the board are unimportant, the lining inside the house is processed using covering materials. These include:
- acrylate, acrylic paints;
- oil paints;
- water-based paints.
Wax belongs to the group of coating materials and impregnations. It all depends on the technology and the thickness of the applied layer. The degree of gloss of the coating depends on the duration and technique of polishing during waxing. In this case, wax can be called a coating material. The longer the procedure is carried out, the more the working wax surface approaches gloss. The less and less intensive grinding is done, the more the matte structure of the wax coating is preserved.
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Lining made of plastic
Plastic lining is not susceptible to the influence of various microorganisms.
Plastic lining is a relatively new type of finishing. The production material is polyvinyl chloride, which is quite popular today. It is chemically inert, does not attract rodents, and is also not a favorable environment for the habitat of various microorganisms.
In addition, it has the following qualities:
- is impervious to the effects of moisture, which means it is moisture resistant; not susceptible to rotting and the appearance of fungus; plastic is a fireproof material, does not burn well and does not emit substances that poison the body; in terms of heat and sound insulation qualities it is significantly inferior to wood; it is unpretentious in maintenance - if necessary, you can simply wipe it with a rag.
Cladding finishing: technology
Scheme of wall cladding with PVC clapboard.
Covering a room with clapboard is not that difficult; it is quite possible to do the installation yourself. The installation process is similar, the difference is in the joining and the nature of the fasteners: lamellas made of plastic need to be connected with a tongue and groove, and those made of wood need to be overlapped. How to line a garage with clapboard:
The starting stage is the creation of the sheathing. The material can be a galvanized profile or a wooden beam (more often used in decorating garages). The slats should be placed depending on the installation method: if the slats are placed horizontally, then the lathing should be done vertically, and vice versa. Using the same principle, the sheathing is mounted on the ceiling.
It is attached using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. If you plan to insulate the garage, then it needs to be done at this stage: place waterproofing between the slats, then insulation and then a layer of vapor barrier. Fiberglass (which rodents are very afraid of) or mineral wool will do an excellent job as insulation. The sheathing process should begin either from the left corner of the wall, or from the bottom up. If plastic lining is chosen as the material, then the process begins with fixing the starting panel and then attaching the main lamella to it. The lamellas must be joined tightly; if the lining is made of wood, then it is recommended to additionally treat the seams with a sealant. The finished wooden lining must be varnished, in ideally fire resistant.
To sheathe a garage, it is advisable to immediately stock up on everything you need. If you calculate using the formula “the number of linings is equal to the area of the room,” then this is completely wrong. The length of the lining rarely completely coincides with the width of the ceiling or the height of the room, which means that part of it will go to scraps.
It is important to perform the calculation correctly, taking into account the length of the board.
Before you start covering, you need to decide on the location of the lining - vertically or horizontally, then find out the length of the slats. When purchasing, you need to add at least 5% to the total number; it’s better to have a little left over than to have to go to the store for one or two boards.
see also
Comments 22
Did you make the membrane on both sides of the foam? How is the effect? What do you use for heating?
The membrane is only on the inside, I heat it with gas. When it’s around zero, all you have to do is drive the car into the garage, it will be 15 degrees inside. At minus 20, they warm it up with a gas gun for 10 minutes, then turn on the IR gas heater, ventilate it for 5 minutes and get the same 15 degrees.
cool. How did you do the ceiling?
exactly the same as the walls, only the roof was redone from the outside!
Interesting garage size, is this in a regular GSK? Are all the garages 9 meters long?
Regular GSK, yes, there are rows of 6, there are 9, there are two-story ones with a lift of 60 meters
You can bring two cars (small ones) if you want! When I bought mine I could barely find 4x6, mostly all 3x6... In what area is your garage?
Rustaveli, I drove 2 cars: my wife’s Mazda and my five BMW – back to back)
Probably a lot of money was “spent” on insulation?!
Not really, just insulation and lining and membrane for about 20₽
20 rupees is 2/3 of my salary
well I have nothing to do with it)
It's clear. The possibilities and the horizon of work are wider.
Good afternoon. I need your recommendations regarding insulation of the garage roof. The fact is that during construction in the 80s, the following insulation was done: - boards were laid on the I-beams, after which screenings/slag were poured to the level of the I-beam. — all this was covered with a reinforced screed of approximately 15-17 cm + roofing felt. It so happened that the old owner neglected the garage to a deplorable state and over the course of many years the roof, boards, and screenings collected moisture and the boards rotted and the material began to crumble. The most characteristic thing is that the concrete was well preserved for so many years and during intense rainfall it allowed water to pass through only in a few places. After the screening was removed, I discovered that the concrete screed did not lie on the I-beams (wooden wedges were temporarily clogged).