How to make steel bluing at home - an overview of the most popular methods (instructions from A to Z)

Steel bluing is increasingly used for painting metal products. It provides reliable surface protection from rust and a decorative finish. With the chemical dyeing option, a protective shell appears on the surface. Oils and acids are used during the work process. Depending on the type of material used and the degree of heating, metal compounds acquire a natural shade.

Many people believe that this processing option is used only in factory conditions. But you can organize it yourself if you follow the sequence of actions and use suitable means.

Corrosion protection

This is the most important goal. This is especially true when a metal structure is used outdoors, that is, the steel is constantly exposed to oxygen and moisture. With such actively reacting substances, an oxidative process - rusting - is possible. As a result, red rust is formed. It greatly affects the strength, reducing it, and also shortens the service life. In this regard, many car enthusiasts are actively interested in how to make the surface of the metal black, and how to blue the steel elements of the car, since corrosion spoils automobile spare parts.

Cold bluing

Many shooters consider bluing with a brush or cotton pad to be the fastest and easiest. Naturally, the procedure is preceded by preliminary preparation of the trunks.

All existing oxidized films are removed with sandpaper: the process begins with “zero”, gradually moving to the finest grain structure. Before degreasing, put on gloves and wash your hands with any dishwashing detergent to degrease.

Do not touch the barrel with bare hands until the bluing process is completed.

Then the barrel is thoroughly degreased with a cotton pad soaked in acetone. It is better to plug chrome barrels with plugs, adjusting them to size; Possibly wine bottles, champagne bottles.

Direct bluing is carried out with the preparation “Clover”, “Shining Steel”, “Raven-3”, “Parisian Oxide” and others. Apply with a brush or cotton swab, but only on small parts. It is better to treat the trunks themselves with cotton pads. The composition turns steel black almost instantly.

To make an abrasion-resistant coating, after the first layer has dried, it is washed off with acetone. Naturally, all the coating will not be washed off, maybe some part of it. A second layer of bluing is applied. A total of 5-7 layers are usually applied.

The finished blued product is generously lubricated with Ballistol.

The trunks are closed with plugs or improvised means.

Give the product a presentable look

A dark matte shade can give a stylish design to an ordinary knife. The blade, coated with an oxide film, looks very unusual and attractive. The same can be said for a number of other items. This need is especially relevant when the item is already old.

The technology is also used for artistic purposes, when a creative approach is taken to decorative elements of the interior.

Basic processing rules

Blueing is essentially a chemical treatment of metal surfaces, in which not only the blackening is removed, but also a protective layer is applied.

These works are classified as hazardous, and therefore must be performed in compliance with certain rules and under special conditions.

Since the solution used for bluing contains chemically active substances with acid, special containers must be used for it.

Video:

In addition, such processing of metal surfaces also involves mechanical work, which means it is necessary to have on hand appropriate means to protect the eyes and skin.

You should also perform metal processing in a room that is equipped with a ventilation system or has a powerful exhaust hood.

In the video posted above, you can see how such processing of metal surfaces should be carried out.

When working with acid and other chemical reagents, you should use only those containers that are made of earthenware, porcelain or glass.

It is not recommended to use containers made of metal for these purposes.

Immediately before starting bluing, you should carry out a uniform and high-quality cleaning of the surface, and also completely remove traces of dirt and grease from it.

In this case, sandpaper, powdered pumice, and fine-grained sand can be used as processing material.

Before starting all work, it is recommended to thoroughly study the properties of the reagents used, as well as the procedure.

It should be remembered that the liquid contains a variety of chemical elements that, if used incorrectly, can harm the product.

You must also ensure that the solution used does not come into contact with the skin or eyes, as this can cause serious injury or burns.

Popular methods

Before we move on to specific techniques that are used in production or at home, we will talk about the stages. They almost always remain the same:

• Preparatory. It is necessary to carefully prepare the part, remove any contamination from the surface and from the holes, before blueing the metal at home. If there are scales or other raised parts, they can be smoothed out using sanding paper. If you use liquid media, be sure to dry the workpiece at the preliminary stage.
• Degreasing. This especially applies to car parts. As a rule, they have a thin oil layer on them, which must first be removed. If there is an oily layer between the steel and the active substance, the chemical solution, the reaction will not occur at all or will be incomplete, with disturbances. Even the slightest traces of oily media should be removed. For example, fingerprints on the handle of a knife, which remain due to the work of the sebaceous glands. Therefore, you should always work with gloves.
• Application of the composition. Below we will tell you more about how you can apply the mass. There are also ways to completely immerse a part.
• Finishing processing. It includes washing the workpiece, drying, and light cleaning if any errors appear.

At home, you can carry out cold and hot bluing of metal: how to blued steel at home, we will present videos that show the three most common options.

Alkaline

The process will produce gas. It has an unpleasant odor and is also dangerous if inhaled in excess. Therefore, it is very important to provide yourself with a suitable workplace - an open space with good ventilation. A garage will do if the doors and windows are open and you are wearing a construction respirator that will protect you from inhaling toxic fumes.

Once you've prepared the area, it's time to find the container. It must be spacious so that the object prepared for the procedure fits completely inside and does not touch the walls of the vessel. Manufacturing material – stainless steel. Let's say it's a large saucepan or metal bucket.

After preliminary degreasing of the surface, we recommend hanging the workpiece by thin threads or wire so that you can move it without touching it with your hands.

Now we apply the solution for bluing. We suggest a small experiment with 100 ml of water (suddenly you need to blacken, say, a nail), but for larger products you should prepare a similar composition, only adhering to the proportions. So, pour 0.1 liter of liquid (bottled, without impurities), dissolve caustic soda in it (caustic soda, sodium hydroxide, NaOH - there are many names, you can buy it at any hardware store) in the amount of 120 grams. Plus we add literally 30 g of sodium nitrate. It is very important to mix well so that when mixing the consistency is homogeneous and without sediment.

When the liquid is ready, place the container on the stove. We heat it to 130–150 degrees. We note right away that you will also need a thermometer adapted to such high temperatures. The mixture will begin to boil, and it will be possible to place an object into it in a pre-specified manner (so that it is completely immersed and does not touch the walls). Wait 20 minutes.

During this period of time, a black oxide film is formed. Now you can rinse the product removed from the solution in ordinary water for quick cooling.

After drying, we recommend taking machine oil and a clean piece of cloth. They should wipe the surface and make it dry. Because of this, you get a top layer that has increased wear resistance and smoothness. If everything was done correctly, polishing will not be required.

Let us note once again the important rules:

• the workpiece must be completely immersed in the vessel;
• When working, use gloves and a respirator.

In case of uneven immersion, you may not get the result you expect: the color will not be the same, but with transitions from lighter to darker.

Acid oxidation of metal at home

The use of acids is a dangerous process that can cause chemical burns on the skin and mucous membranes, so you need to protect yourself reliably. Be sure to wear safety glasses. The second important rule when using this blackening technology is careful adherence to the preparatory stage. Any traces of corrosion should be removed. Rust can be easily cleaned with sandpaper (first coarse-grained, then fine-grained). If the corrosion damage or contamination is very deep and has a large area, then it would be appropriate to use an angle grinder with an attachment (metal brush).

Then cleaners, for example, based on sodium triphosphate and ethyl alcohol, help well. Kerosene is also a good way to deal with greasy stains. You can soak it in it for about 10–15 minutes, then rinse it with running water and dry it at room temperature in a room where dust will not actively settle. While drying, prepare a solution for blackening the metal. For one liter of water you will need only 2 grams of tannic and tartaric acid.

Mix the ingredients thoroughly, place the container on the heating element and wait until the temperature reaches 150 degrees. Now you can place the workpiece into the boiling liquid. The rest of the rules are the same - complete immersion, should not touch the walls, do not touch with your hands. 15 minutes of boiling is enough.

Unlike alkaline, acidic is not easily washed off with cold water. It is best to first place the part in a container with ordinary cool liquid, rinse, and then pour over boiling water - this will wash off all the remaining substances. To consolidate the result, place the product in machine oil for 1 hour. After the time has passed, remove and dry the metal with a clean cloth, which was blued using a chemical method at home. Now you can use the tool.

Thermal

It is also called hot bluing. This is an older and more reliable, proven method. The advantages are that the top coating lasts much longer, and less harmful fumes are produced during the process. But precautions are still necessary.

The technology is simple, it consists in the fact that when heated, the steel acquires a tarnished color. An interesting point - this way you can achieve not only black, but also interesting tints, it all depends on the temperature and the duration of hardening.

First you need to carry out classic cleaning. Then preheat the workpiece a little so that the oil composition can better adhere to the warm material. Now cover the entire surface with oil, linseed or olive works well. How exactly to completely lubricate the part is up to you. It seems to us that it is best to immerse it in a container with liquid.

It is very important to wait a while after immersion so that no oil traces remain; otherwise, unsightly stains, stains, and drips will remain. After this, you can take it outside and heat it evenly. Most often, a blowtorch is used for this. At the same time, watch for changes in shade. Stop firing when it turns black.

Sometimes an oil product is not used at all. That is, they simply heat and process iron in the open air. Due to interaction with oxygen, steel changes its color.

Hot bluing in oil

This is the most common method of home bluing, as it does not involve the use of expensive chemicals and hazardous substances. The only danger is the possibility of an accidental burn, so be as careful as possible and protect your hands with clothing with tight sleeves. Most hunters sincerely believe that this is the only correct method of bluing and they are right in their own way. After all, the protective film obtained by this method is many times stronger and more durable than the coating obtained using cold bluing.

First you need to heat the part. This can be done in a wood-burning oven or in a barrel. Thick gloves, clothing with thick sleeves and good grippy tongs are required. After this, you need to immerse the part in a container with machine or linseed oil. Wait for a maximum of 10 seconds and carefully remove. After this, we observe the surface - dark spots that have begun to appear indicate that the metal is ready for further processing.

Next, we burn the barrel with a blowtorch. To do this, after removing it from the oil, you need to hang it by the fly and process it with a soldering iron. Bake the surface evenly until the metal completely turns from brown to black.

Allow the barrel to cool at room temperature, do not cool further, then wipe with a dry cloth to absorb any remaining oil.

How to bury metal at home using rusty varnish

This is a simple and fast way to blacken steel. You need to prepare the container in advance. Porcelain is ideal. Then the surface should be prepared - mechanical processing and degreasing are carried out according to the standards described above. Now let's move on to preparing the composition. It contains hydrochloric acid as a base, additionally metal shavings, nitric acid and iron rust.

Stir the mixture until as smooth as possible. During the preparation of the solution, a reaction will occur with the release of gas. After this, add alcohol or ordinary vodka in a 1:1 ratio. It will settle along with the cloudy sediment; you need to drain it along with the steel filings and the cloudy liquid.

Place the product in the container and wait for it to change color. If a red coating appears, medium-hard bristles will help clean it off. Using this method, you can coat bladed weapons or interior items made of steel, or blacken metal at home in the shortest possible time.

Criteria for choosing a bluing method

Before carrying out the procedure and its preparation, you should decide on a more effective bluing method that is suitable in this particular case. Typically several criteria are considered:

1. Age of the weapon. Rare samples were always subjected to thermal bluing. However, there were some nuances here: if the weapon had silver soldering, then heat treatment was contraindicated for it, since the salts contained in the solution dissolve the silver. Thermal bluing is a lengthy process, so it is in little demand, although the necessary preparations are not difficult to obtain.
2. Worn existing bluing. If the percentage of wear is small, the coating is renewed using a cold or alkaline method. If there is a large degree of wear, it is better to remove the old layer and apply a new one. Again, you can use the cold method, or you can use the hot method.
3. Rationality. The thermal method is expensive, so it seems unreasonable to use it to burnish a cheap barrel.
4. Budgeting. Here the method of foresight is better than stinginess. If you save on a good barrel at the beginning, giving preference to the cheap method, then a situation may arise that ends in an expensive restoration. On the other hand, cheap bluing can be repeated more than once as needed. Then how much the cost of such a regular event will cost is not difficult to calculate.

The choice depends on the shooter’s preference and capabilities. Regardless of the choice of processing, products are pre-prepared:

• Clean the surface to be treated;
• Sand thoroughly;
• Complete degreasing is carried out.

Using machine oil

It is not necessary to prepare a complex composition for chemical bluing of steel at home. Sometimes an ordinary oil substance that is poured into a car engine is enough. The procedure is similar to the thermal method, but in reverse order. First, heat the steel element red-hot, then place it in a tank completely filled with oil (machine or linseed oil will do). The part itself should be held using pliers or pre-prepared hooks. It must be maintained for at least 15 minutes. After this, place it on a paper napkin, which will absorb the liquid. Then similar steps are repeated 4-5 times until a rich color is formed. It will likely be dark gray rather than black, but the surface will be good against rust.

Preparation

Do not neglect thorough preparation, as this will help ensure both your safety and the quality of the procedure.

• We clean off leaded deposits using a copper or plastic brush.
• We carefully treat the inner surface of the barrel with a rag soaked in kerosene.
• We wash the barrel channel with a soapy solution (water + any non-abrasive detergent).
• We put the barrel in a warm place and wait for it to dry completely.
• We grind the outer surface of the barrel in any convenient way to an ideal state - this can be done with sandpaper or fine sand.
• Degrease using citric acid solution or alcohol.
• After the preparatory cycle, you can proceed directly to the bluing itself.

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Even a schoolchild will understand that oxidation at home is a rather dangerous process, especially if it involves aggressive chemicals. Therefore, strictly follow all rules for storing and using chemicals.

• Reagents may only be stored in clean containers, out of reach of unauthorized persons.
• During the bluing process, you must wear protective clothing, gloves, goggles and a mask.
• It is best to work with hazardous substances outside or in a well-ventilated room.
• It is extremely important to comply with the proportions and time frames indicated in our article.
• If you suspect poisoning with a chemical substance, you should immediately consult a doctor.

Pay attention to the other equipment you will be using. For example, if the reagent is supposed to be heated on a gas stove, then the stove, like the cylinder and the gas pipe, must be in good working order. The same applies to the sander and other tools.

Cold bluing

If you know that the steel of your gun barrel has not been cold hardened, then it may not withstand heat well. In this case, it is better to choose a cold bluing method. It is usually preferred by owners of small-caliber and pneumatic weapons. The essence of cold oxidation is the step-by-step processing of a steel part with oxidizing agents. These reagents are available in specialized stores, where you can purchase ready-made kits. The most popular among hunters is the mixture of “Voron-3” (domestic product) and “Parisian oxide” (foreign production).

The process can also be carried out in two ways - applying the solution to the metal surface with a brush or using complete immersion. Let's take a closer look at each.

Brush and solution

This method is perfect for those who are doing bluing at home for the first time, since all the reagents needed for the procedure are usually non-toxic and the standard safety requirement is to avoid getting the liquid in your eyes, just like with regular household chemicals.

But this method also has a drawback - when treating the surface with a special brush, the solution cannot get into all hard-to-reach places. The layer also turns out uneven due to this method of application, so polishing must be carried out after processing. The most unpleasant moment is that if, when processing the surface, an uneven mark is left on the metal, and this happens when using low-quality solutions, then you will have to do everything again. This is already a significant expense, so when bluing with a brush you should be extremely careful and attentive and not skimp on the quality of the reagents.

Immersion method

This oxidation method is more preferable, since in this case the liquid penetrates into all gaps and provides much more reliable protection of the metal. Also, when using a brush, splashes are inevitable, which are completely eliminated in this method, so immersion bluing is also safer. There is, perhaps, only one drawback - the high cost of the concentrate required for the procedure.

For the first recipe we will need the following reagents:

• nitric acid (HNO3) - 20 grams;
• ferric chloride (FeCl3) - 75 grams;
• medical alcohol (C2H5OH) - 30 grams.

Reagents for the second recipe:

• ferric chloride (FeCl3) - 170 grams;
• nitric acid (HNO3) - 13.5 grams;
• hydrochloric acid (HCl) - 4 grams;
• copper sulfate (CuSO4) - 4 grams.

Remember that this method is completely unsuitable for bluing blades, since the cold coating is very unstable to mechanical stress and will quickly wear off. The hunter also runs the risk of getting scratches on the film covering the trunk during his first hunt by catching it on a branch.

Recommendations

You yourself can choose a way to blacken metal at home, each of them can lead to a very high-quality result. A container is almost always needed. Best suited: porcelain, durable glass (if heating is not needed), galvanized stainless steel. Attach hooks to the edges of the tank: you will need them to secure the part.

Another tip: degrease not only the workpiece itself, but also the container for the procedure. This can be acetone, gasoline, kerosene or a special composition. The main thing is that they are inert towards steel, that is, they do not enter into a chemical reaction with it.

Be sure to be responsible when choosing a location; it should be a room with excellent ventilation. Otherwise, you may be exposed to dangerous, toxic fumes. Additional protection - a respirator, goggles to protect the mucous membrane of the eyes, gloves.

An important preliminary step when using any method is to remove rust and dirt before applying the metal blackening agent. It can be done using sandpaper or a grinder with a special attachment. In extreme cases, etching can be used.

We recommend carefully choosing which product can be used for a particular type of material. If you follow our tips correctly, you can get excellent results at home.

Safety precautions and preparation for bluing

If you look at the root, then bluing is a common chemical reaction. And for the same reason, certain rules should be followed and the action should be carried out in a designated and equipped safe place.

Ventilation must be excellent, since caustic fumes from chemicals can easily harm the respiratory tract. All containers are allowed only from glass, porcelain or earthenware. It is mandatory to unload the weapon and dismantle the wooden parts.

Whatever bluing method is chosen, the following auxiliary materials will be needed:

• Latex gloves;
• Steel wool;
• Sandpaper of various grain sizes;
• Cleaner;
• Protective glasses;
• Powdered pumice;
• Fine sand;
• Gun oil for cleaning and lubrication;
• Cotton pads and swabs, rags, a pair of toothpicks, a shoe brush (new) and a toothbrush.

Blackening

We will present another option on how to burnish steel with your own hands. This option is as simple as possible to use. It is suitable even for those who live in an apartment or simply do not want to carry out such a procedure with heating an alkaline or acidic liquid composition. This is bluing with a brush. Special products are sold, for example, the domestic “Raven 3” or the foreign “Prague Oxide”.

The technology is very simple to apply - you first need to remove the top fatty layer, that is, degrease the surface. But there are some disadvantages:

• It is difficult to provide a good film in areas where access is difficult. Therefore, it is better to immerse crafts with complex configurations completely in containers.
• The layer is not very durable and is not resistant to mechanical damage.

Bluening with saltpeter

Chemical bluing with saltpeter shows excellent results. The oxide coating is durable, shiny, black and blue in color.

The cleaned product is pre-boiled for degreasing for 20 minutes in a solution of the following composition:

• Distilled water 1 liter;
• Caustic soda 50 gr;
• Soda ash 50 g;
• Stationery glue 1 tbsp. spoon.

After degreasing, the products are washed with hot water and placed in a bluing solution for 25 minutes.

Solution composition:

• Caustic caustic 500 g;
• Sodium nitrate 500 g;
• Distilled water 1 l.

The treated parts begin to be washed under the tap with very hot water, gradually reducing the temperature to cold. No additional polishing is required.