Acid primer for a car, when to use and how to apply. Epoxy primer "Reoflex": features and characteristics of the composition

In this short article we will look at the question: “is it possible to apply epoxy primer over acidic primer?”

This article on choosing between acid and epoxy primers describes the properties and procedure for using acid and epoxy primers. Comments often ask questions about applying epoxy primer to acid primer. Someone even tried to do this, and no reaction occurred, which leads to the conclusion that this can be done. Let's figure out where doubts arise about the use and compatibility of these primers.

Acidic, phosphating, etching or reactive primer?

All these names, one way or another, refer to soil that contains acid. In English, there are three different names for acid soils, which are also indicated on packages sold in Russia. Etch or etching primer - etching primer, self etch/etching primer - etching primer, which has ingredients that immediately after the action of the acid are eaten into the metal, creating anti-corrosion protection, wash primer - reactive primer, which also contains acid and, in theory, is intended for application to new metal that does not contain old putty and paint to increase adhesion (especially non-ferrous metals, such as aluminum).

Some acidic soils are not “strong” enough to attack steel. You need to look at the technical specifications of the product.

Different manufacturers have different primer formulas and instructions for use. Initially, etching primers did not contain components that increase corrosion protection and, especially, fillers that fill small irregularities. Nowadays you can find acidic soils from different manufacturers that contain anti-corrosion additives and can be used as fillers at the same time. Most often, however, a good acidic primer is able to chemically act on any metal, preparing it for the next layer of filling primer, and also converts a small amount of difficult-to-clean rust and passivates the surface of the metal, making it inactive to oxidation, and therefore to corrosion.

Types of automotive primers

When purchasing material, you need to navigate the types of primers, since each type of material is responsible for its own stage of work.

There are three main types:

Acrylic. This type of material is used as a bonding layer between the metal surface and the base paint coating. It perfectly fills micro unevenness and levels the surface. But there is also a minus - it is hygroscopic. It absorbs moisture, and if water gets in, it can reach the metal and provoke pockets of corrosion.
Epoxy. Such soil forms a sealed layer of film, which provides waterproofing of the surface. In addition to steel parts, it is also used to cover surfaces made of non-ferrous metals and galvanic coatings. Also provides a good level of adhesion.
Acidic (phosphate). This type of material interacts with the metal, forming a film of oxides, and penetrates into the structure. Phosphate primers are rust converters, and they are used to more reliably protect the body from corrosive processes.

All these types of primers are often used, but combining them together is not always desirable, but it is possible if you follow the technology. For example, if you apply an acidic primer to metal and then apply an epoxy primer without waiting for it to dry completely, it will neutralize the effect of the acidic primer. If you wait the period correctly, then everything will be fine. There are no such problems with acrylic primer.

Content:

When it comes to acidic soil, names such as phosphating, etching, and reactive soil are heard. In this article we will look at whether there is any difference between these products or whether they are different names for the same type of soil. Let's figure out when it is used and how acid primer “works” and what is the difference between one-component and two-component acid compositions.

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Acid primer is a primary primer, like epoxy primer, and is applied to clean metal (see the article “acidic or epoxy primer, which one to choose”). Acid primer, by etching the metal, cleans it and slightly changes the surface to improve further adhesion of the filling primer, and also ensures the transformation of fine rust. The etching primer does not remove, but it stops corrosion from spreading. It is important to remove all rust as thoroughly as possible. Residues that cannot be removed are affected by acidic soil.

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Wash primer

Wash primer and acid primers are similar in their action. Wash primer is applied only to bare metal. It does not fill in scratches and minor irregularities and requires the application of acrylic primer on top of it. Wash primer is phosphoric acid in a solution of polyvinyl butyral polymer, isopropyl alcohol and other ingredients. This primer is applied in a thin layer, creating a dry film 8–13 microns thick. This primer makes the painting process more efficient and adds anti-corrosion properties to the metal. In the future, during operation, even with slight damage to the paint layer, the metal treated with reactive primer will not rust.

This primer passivates the metal before applying the filling primer. The metal surface becomes inactive to oxygen contained in air and water. A very thin film is created, it goes into a passive state, and corrosion processes are inhibited. It also creates a good base for applying the next layer of filling primer.

Wash primer is usually recommended for use on aluminum and other metals to improve adhesion followed by coating. On aluminum and galvanized metal, without preparation with this primer, the coating does not adhere well.

What else do you need to know

You can often encounter a situation where workshop technicians suggest applying an acid base over the body as a preparation for painting. The technique is called Wash Primer. The consequence of priming with acid is the preservation of the characteristics of the composition for 2 days after mixing the ingredients. The material dries in 2 hours.

The acid layer is applied only after complete degreasing, checked using a clean cloth

The best results are obtained by sanding the reactive primer using a light-grit sandpaper.

The most popular primer is a group consisting of 2 components. A filler primer is applied on top of it; this is a mandatory overcoating procedure. With the help of an additional coating it is possible to increase wear resistance.

If you use such a product, you can completely stop the spread of corrosion throughout the body or prevent its occurrence.

The acid composition differs from other types of soil in the possibility of using grinding, but such a procedure may be prohibited if the body has defects.

Technical characteristics and features of Novol reactive primer

Novol Protect 340 is a two-component reactive (or acidic) primer, free of chromium salts, which consists of the following components:

suspension of pigments and filler in a mixture of high-quality resins;
hardener based on orthophosphoric acid.

The reactive composition is applied directly to the rust source and is primary. This means that it cannot be painted immediately. A layer of secondary primer is always applied over the acid primer. The Polish product Novol Protect 340 is an ideal base that guarantees strength and excellent adhesion of subsequent layers. It has excellent technical characteristics:

high strength and wear resistance;
resistance to salts;
excellent hydrophobicity;
good adhesion;
resistance to mechanical stress.

The acid composition Novol Protect 340 can be applied to aluminum, nickel-plated, chrome-plated, galvanized steel.

It is important to remember that the mixture is highly flammable and highly toxic. The material is easy to use; in order to apply it to the surface with your own hands, you do not need special knowledge and skills. The instructions for use will help you do this quickly and efficiently.

Selecting a Protective Primer

The surface of the car is very vulnerable. The slightest scratches, chips or other damage to the body instantly destroys the metal with corrosion. Primer in minor repair work is an intermediate link that is laid between the final layer of paint and the surface of the body. You can even say that the soil is a kind of foundation, the choice of which determines the quality of the paint surface. There is no need to skimp on primers.

A prerequisite for good primer application is the preparation of the car body, which can be made of aluminum or steel. Moreover, the latter can be galvanized, stainless, pure or chrome-plated.

If the primer is chosen incorrectly (the owner of the car decided to save money), the paint sags over time, unaesthetic puddles appear on the surface of the car and scratches from sandpaper become visible.

Any automotive primer has excellent adhesion to the body. The standard thickness of its application is from 15 to 20 microns. Division of primers:

The most common auto primer that protects metal consists of two components. Can be soft or hard. The last option is the highest quality, forming a durable and reliable coating with a long service life.

Primer for plastics

Primer for plastic is an adhesive primer, or “Primer for plastic”, which is used when painting plastic. Their main task is to adhere to the surface of the plastic and become an adhesive substrate for subsequent coatings. Primers for plastic are always 1K - one-component compositions. They are often called "plasticizer". They do not require dilution and are in finished form, mostly transparent and slightly yellowish in color. Basically, plastic primer is suitable for all types of plastic. Of course, there are difficulties with polypropylene and polyethylene PP, PE. So, read the compatibility instructions on the jar before purchasing. If the new plastic part is not primed, then according to the technology, before applying a primer to it, it must be heated at a temperature of 50 degrees. Within 30-40 minutes. During this time, the silicone (it is used to lubricate molds during bumper stamping) rises to the surface, where it is removed with a degreaser and a napkin. In garage conditions, this can only be done in hot weather, by placing the part in the sun. An alternative is to simply wash the part in warm, soapy water. Primer for plastic Reoflex aerosol is a one-component primer in a can, designed to improve the adhesion of paintwork to plastic. Apply in one thin layer. Acrylic materials and base coats can be applied on top. The following companies are also common: Body, Kudo, Novol.

Problems when priming a car

The main defects that occur during priming are subsidence and calving. After applying the secondary primer, the putty areas are often contoured. Contouring is the manifestation of the boundaries of the putty area under subsequent coatings. This is a very unpleasant and clearly visible defect. It may not occur immediately, but several days after painting. It occurs due to the fact that polyester putties shrink already under the paint, as a result of which the border of the putty area becomes visible. Subsidence (shrinkage) is a gradual decrease in the volume of putty during the curing process. Absolutely all putties are subject to subsidence, regardless of their type and manufacturer. Shrinkage may be less or more for different brands, but it will definitely happen. Reasons for contouring:

If under the putty there was not pure metal, but an old paint coating.
If there was little time for final shrinkage to occur.

The putty dries in 20 minutes, but nowhere is there any indication of the time required for complete shrinkage. Practice shows that final grinding under secondary primer is ideally carried out within 24 hours. The thickness of the soil should be such that there is a reserve for grinding the contoured area. Sometimes the filler is applied in a much thicker layer, this is when the master is already tired of puttingty and wants to compensate for the defects with a thicker layer of primer. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the soil also shrinks. The only way to combat this phenomenon is time. The conclusions are as follows:

Recycled primer should not be applied in a layer of excessive thickness. There are liquid putties for this.
The final shrinkage of the applied materials takes time.
Remember previous and subsequent coverage.

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Restrictions

Putty and epoxy primer cannot be applied to acidic soil (see the article “Can epoxy primer be applied to acidic soil”).

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Greetings, my dear inquisitive person!) I propose to put an end to the issue of using acid, epoxy and acrylic primers. I will try to use a minimum of terminology, while explaining everything in detail. 1. Application of primary and secondary soils. 2. Compatibility of primers with other coatings and fillers.

So, in our arsenal we have three main primers: - acidic 2K (etching, phosphating, reactive) - epoxy 2K - acrylic 2K Composition of acidic 2K primer: component A: polyvinyl butyral, zinc or lead chromates or phosphates, alcohol (butanol + ethanol for example) component B: phosphoric acid, water. We use it on bare metal, clean or with corrosion residues (in the pores, for example) How does it work? Acid soil is primary and in its finished form is a complex system. The reaction of precipitation of zinc or lead from chromate or sulfate is carried out by the reaction of orthophosphoric acid in the presence of water. Part of the phosphoric acid falls on the iron and, through an exchange reaction, phosphates it, and alcohols with water passivate the phosphating reaction (neutralize). Ideally, we get a phosphated section of metal with lead or zinc deposited on it. Polyvinyl butyral has excellent adhesion to many substrates (aluminum, zinc, fiberglass, steel, etc.), and most paints and primers also have adhesion to it (only when it turns into an irreversible coating - it polymerizes). Hygroscopic.

Composition of epoxy 2K primer: component A: epoxy oligomers (epoxy resin), filler (talc, wood flour, etc.), alcohol derivatives. component B: polyamines (there are different functionalities) How does it work? Epoxy primer is also a primary primer. Applied to bare, clean metal without traces of corrosion. It has good “physical” adhesion and chemical resistance, and can act as an insulator when repairing old paintwork. Non-hygroscopic

Composition of acrylic 2K primer: component A: acrylate resin (various in functionality), filler (talc, chalk, etc.), esters. component B: isocyanates (various concentrations, sometimes with the addition of esters) How does it work? This group of soils acts as secondary, repair, and also insulators for some coatings. There are fillers and levelers (there are also universal ones). Applied to polyester (polyester) materials and substrates, as well as to old paintwork. Hygroscopic.

This was the preface. These issues have already been covered more than once. But for the sake of completeness this is necessary)

And now about the painful stuff! You can’t putty on acid! Almost everyone knows this. How to isolate? Acrylic? Epoxy?

Now the answer) The solvent for polyvinyl butyral is alcohol. The solvent for epoxy primer is again alcohol. The hardener for polyester resin (putty) is dibenzene peroxide (complex alcohol oxide). Thinners for acrylic are ethers, and the hardener for it is isocyanate (isocyanates are organic compounds containing the functional group -N=C=O)

Primary acid primer is applied in a reactive (thin) layer as it is non-filling and has a low working residue. You can dry and sand it (then all of the above will stick to it), but what’s the point of it if we cut it down in one or two minutes?) Therefore, we cover it wet-on-wet. And if putty with a hardener (dibenzene peroxide) gets on it, the soil is dissolved by this hardener and its properties change. The balance “alcohol - water - phosphoric acid - zinc chromate” is disrupted. The same thing happens with acidic primer when epoxy gets on it! Everything looks fine, nothing is falling off. But know that the original properties of acidic soil will be irretrievably lost!

But in the case of acrylic primer, everything is different, since it does not contain alcohols for polyvinyl butyral, unless, of course, you diluted the filler with something “of your own.”

I thank those who mastered this mass) All the best! I'll be glad to answer your questions.

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Features of using aerosol

Epoxy primer in the form of an aerosol is used as an anti-corrosion coating; it should be used on the following surfaces:

galvanized;
made of ferrous metal;
light alloy.

Can also be used as a base for various enamels.

Important! The following types of enamels are incompatible with this type of epoxy primer:

alkyd-acrylic;
alkyd-urethane;
polyvinyl chloride.

It is better to use soil in such a container to eliminate small defects.

The surface must be prepared according to the algorithm described above. The further work algorithm is as follows:

The can must be shaken well;
spraying should be carried out at an angle of 90 degrees;
the balloon dispenser should be located at a distance of 20–30 cm from the surface to be treated;
the substance should be applied in 2-3 layers with a time interval of 25–30 minutes;
You need to spray the primer smoothly, without stopping in one place.

Important! Use protective equipment while working (respirator, gloves).

Primer for car

In order for the surface to be processed correctly and efficiently, the type of soil must be selected correctly. There are many of them on the market, let’s highlight the most popular ones:

acrylic - used not only for metal, but also for plastic and wood. Excellent resistance to temperature changes, moisture and other negative factors;
anti-corrosion - not only protects the surface from corrosion, but also improves the adhesion of paint to the surface;
strengthening – used to eliminate various types of defects, also characterized by high adhesion rates;
acidic for metal - “corrodes” a thin layer of metal to improve the adhesion of paint to the surface.

It is advantageous to use an epoxy-type primer because it combines several functions at once.

Acrylic primer (filler)

Automotive two-component acrylic primer 2K, the most common and mainly used in work. This is not an anti-corrosion primer. The main purpose of acrylic primer is to fill pores and small scratches on the body panel after sanding. That's why they are called "Fillers" or fillers and universal ones. Its task is also to create a substrate for applying paint and varnish, since the paint must be applied to a primed surface or to an old paint layer. When applied, the layer thickness can reach 50-100 microns or more. Acrylic filler can be universal and can be used both as an adhesive and as a filler. It all depends on the proportion in which it will be diluted with thinner and how many layers you apply. Acrylic primers come in different colors. It's mostly grey, black and white. They are used to reduce paint consumption and to avoid differences in coating shades. Reoflex acrylic primer is a universal quick-drying leveler. Reoflex is used as a primer, thick-layer filler and insulator against old paintwork and putties. Reoflex is applicable in the “wet on wet” version. It comes in grey, white, black and red. Reoflex dries in 4 hours at 20 degrees. Application wet on wet, possible after 30 minutes.

Thinning, applying and treating primer

How to dilute the soil? Acrylic primer can be diluted with any branded acrylic solvent. Just don’t use 650, 646, 647, etc. Basically, fillers are diluted 4:1 and 10-20% thinner. Less common are 3:1 and 5:1 in ratio to the hardener. The pot life of acrylic-based filler is from 30 to 60 minutes. The secondary primer is applied to the primary primer and to putty and sanded areas in 2-3 layers. Do not apply more than necessary.

For large surface repairs, primer is applied to the entire part. For minor repairs, the filler should cover the putty layer. Apply with a spray gun with a nozzle size of 1.6-1.8mm. For small pinpoint areas to be repaired, the filler layer in these areas should be thicker than in border areas. Test each subsequent layer must overlap the previous one! So that there is no “Pie”.

After drying, which is 3-8 hours at 20 degrees, you can start sanding. Be sure to check the instructions on the product can. The filler layer must be sanded well. Poor sanding will result in paint defects. Start working when completely dry. Pay special attention to layers of increased thickness. Sanding wet soil leads to the formation of scratches and clogging of the sandpaper. Let's divide the work with soil into two stages:

Coarse sanding – evens out the filler layer. Skins of higher grain size are used. They mainly use a hand sanding block with P320 abrasive, with caution P240.
Finish sanding – achieving the required surface for good paint adhesion and covering the marks of rough sanding. Use abrasive P500-P600 on an eccentric machine when dry or P800-P1000 when wet.

Proper processing is step grinding. They start with coarse sand and end with fine sandpaper. Avoid using coarse abrasives, as it is more difficult to grind into smaller ones. Filler, unlike putty, can be processed both dry and wet. With dry sanding, a high-quality surface is achieved faster than with wet sanding. When wet sanding, you can use a finer abrasive, benefiting from the presence of water.

What is a primer used for?

Before painting a body or a separate part, the primer performs a number of useful functions that provide a high-quality finish.

First, phosphate primer serves to prevent and remove rust from the metal surface.

Secondly, the main layer of primer levels the plane, filling small irregularities, and provides good protection of the surface from the effects of water and mechanical factors.

Thirdly, it increases the adhesion of paint to metal as an intermediate layer.

In addition, there are special primers for wheel arches that can withstand quite severe mechanical stress and prevent damage to the paint layer and subsequent corrosion of the metal.

Preparatory work

Before applying a primer to a car, the preparation steps preceding it are also important.

The main steps include grinding and cleaning the surface. This includes not only cleaning up rust and chips with scratches, but also removing swollen and chipped layers of old paintwork.

Next, the surface is degreased and putty is applied in places where it is required. Usually these are scratches, chips, dents that were previously straightened, but there are minor irregularities. Be sure to wait for the putty to dry completely, since some types of putty absorb moisture well and are able to retain it inside, forming pockets of corrosion. The dried putty is sanded and degreased with white spirit, and then wiped with a dry lint-free cloth.

Primer technology

Now let's take a closer look at this stage of work. First of all, you need to prepare the work area. If this is a garage, then it is desirable that it be clean, well lit, warm and have ventilation. This way, you can avoid installing additional heating sources in the form of IR heaters or the appearance of dust accumulations on the body.

The next step is to cover all untreated areas of the body where the material may get when applied with a spray gun, and also remove all plastic covers on the parts that will be repainted. Usually they cover everything with a film using masking tape, leaving only those areas of the metal surface to which the primer will be applied.

From materials and tools you will need:

grinding machine with various replaceable abrasives.
sandpaper.
primer, solvent and hardener.
spray gun and air compressor.

This is a basic set of equipment and consumables.

The next step is preparing the finished primer composition before painting the car. It is important to strictly follow the proportions indicated by the manufacturer of the material on the packaging. It is advisable to use the hardener and solvent of the same brand so that there are no problems with differences in composition. You can also use 646 as a solvent. To maintain proportions, you can use measuring containers; do not do everything by eye, especially if you are not an experienced painter. Next, the composition is filtered with special filters offered by manufacturers, otherwise you take gauze, fold it into 3 - 4 layers and run the finished primer composition through it. This is done to filter out various lumps and debris, which may subsequently clog the spray gun.

In most cases, 2 - 3 layers of primer are applied to the surface of the car body, this is enough to ensure good conditions before applying the main paint.

Many people are interested in the question: “How long does the primer dry before painting?” The answer depends on the type of material used. So, say, if a hardener is used, then a drying period of 10 - 15 minutes is allowed between layers, and the finishing layer is dried for about 18 - 20 hours. Without using a hardener, one layer of material will dry in 24 hours, but this approach is very rarely used, due to a large loss of time for work.

When choosing a primer color, people often look at the shade of the finishing paint. So, if these are light colors, then take white or combine white and the desired tone of paint. If the surface is black, then take a black tint accordingly. But there is also a universal color - this is a gray primer, it is used for surfaces of both light and dark tones.

Layering process

The first layer of primer is usually applied in a thick enough layer to evenly cover the surface, and the material itself will fill all micro-irregularities and chips. Next, let it dry for about 10 – 15 minutes. If necessary, rub problem areas and apply a second layer. They wait for it to dry a little, if all is well, then leave it for about a day and move on to the final painting.

Epoxy primer "Reoflex": instructions for use

The composition, characterized by versatility and anti-corrosion properties and consisting of two components, is suitable for:

ferrous metals;
galvanized surfaces;
light alloys;
cars.

Experts, consumers and repairmen who have tried this material note in their reviews the high ductility of the material.

Please note that the epoxy composition can be tinted with a special pigment paste or decorative filler.

Having treated the surface with this composition, you can apply (after drying) any types of enamel:

glyphthalic;
polyurethane;
others, compatible with paintwork materials.

The primer is applied with a roller, but sometimes a special gun is used. For minor repairs, a special composition from an aerosol can is suitable, the application of which does not require additional equipment.

Please note that sometimes you have to dilute the Reoflex epoxy primer. How to do this? For such purposes, you can purchase a special solvent, which is widely available on the market. When working with such compositions, it is better not to use “folk remedies”, as there is a risk of spoiling the surface and reducing the protective properties of the soil.

Acid soil (reactive soil).

This is the so-called primary primer; it contains orthophosphoric acid (a rust converter). This type of primer is applied as the first layer to bare metal or old paint.

This is what the car looks like after applying acid primer:

It is not allowed to apply primer to materials with a polyester base (putties and their resins).

The primer provides excellent adhesion and anti-corrosion protection, but it must be over-primed with a two-component acrylic primer.

Painting directly onto acidic soil is unacceptable!

Epoxy primer.

As you guessed from the name, this type of primer is based on epoxy resin and perfectly isolates body metal from atmospheric air. Epoxy primer is applied to bare metal, old paint and putty (unlike acid primer).

This type of primer must also be covered with acrylic primer, although I painted metallic paint on it and there were no reactions.

Attention - this type of soil cannot be dried with infrared dryers; heating will soften it, flow and lose its properties.

Acrylic two-component primer.

The most universal primer used in body repair. For reasons of economy, acid and epoxy primers are extremely rarely applied to the body. We only do this on expensive cars! Usually the car is tinned, matted, puttied, matted again and primed with acrylic two-component primer.

This primer can be painted wet, matts quickly and easily, and has excellent hiding power.

Life hack - This primer can be tinted! If you tint the primer to the base color, paint consumption is reduced, and, most importantly, when chips and scratches reach the primer, they do not stand out on the car like this:

Primer for plastic.

Usually this is a one-component primer; it is an adhesion enhancer. Personally, we don’t use it for car repairs. We are used to matting the plastic bumpers with sandpaper with a score of 240-360, applying acrylic two-component primer, drying it, matting it again and painting it.

This is how to apply primer to a car body:

Review of primer manufacturers.

Worst primer or cheap and runny.

It so happens that the author of this article has been painting cars for many years, and if in the late 2000s Vika paint and primer from Yaroslavl ruled in terms of price/quality ratio, now this one is worth taking their primer only if you need to quickly paint a couple of parts and sell the car ….

The fact is that by buying a can of NOVOL, you will prime the average sedan. NOVOL soil is so thick that it will dilute 3-4 times! In the case of Vika, the can cannot be diluted even twice, since it is already very liquid. The result is that the price seems low, 400 rubles. at the time of writing, but in fact, due to the concentration, the primer will be more expensive than average manufacturers. And the quality leaves much to be desired... The simplest thing is that if you stick the electrode vertically into an open novol jar, it will remain standing; in the case of vetch, they can interfere with the soil without straining.....

A reasonable compromise is NOVOL.

Basically, in Russia novol is known as a Polish manufacturer of car putties, but in fact the list of their products is quite wide, and primer for cars occupies a fairly significant part of this list.

The soil itself is thick, has good hiding power, is easy to sand and, thanks to its thickness, shows one of the largest yields of product per jar...

What it is?

You should understand what acid soil is, then the principles and main tasks of using the substance will become obvious.

Acid primer is a primer, sold in a can or as a liquid, consisting of phosphoric acid, sometimes with the addition of zinc, and is used to ensure better adhesion, valued for its anti-corrosion characteristics. The material is used for initial processing of car bodies.

Can only be used as a first coat; paints and varnishes cannot be applied over the acid primer layer. Protection against corrosion occurs due to the chemical properties of the product, unlike other primers with a mechanical protection principle.

A layer of such a composition cannot be treated with an epoxy composition, since the properties of the second layer neutralize the acidity. To combat rust, acid primer is a powerful tool because it can completely destroy it.

The material has many useful properties that go beyond its anti-corrosion effect:

thermal stability. High temperature does not have a negative effect on the substance;
moisture resistance. The primer does not react under the influence of moisture and salt. The listed actions are especially important in winter, when there are a lot of salty mixtures and high humidity;
protection from aggressive environments. The acid coating does not react in any way to numerous chemical compounds: oils, gasoline, etc.;
weather resistance. The external conditions and operating environment for the machine are not terrible even without additional paint coating.

What is the peculiarity of the composition

Acid primer for cars is a strong substance that ensures sufficient resistance of the frame to moisture and helps destroy rust. To completely remove rust before applying paint, it is recommended not to skimp on primer and buy a product from trusted brands.

The acid primer is based on phosphoric acid and a zinc additive. The product is applied exclusively as the first layer, that is, sprayed directly onto the metal. Before use, the surface must be degreased, this will help remove particles of rust and grease. Drying time at room temperature (20 °C) is 15 minutes.

When the composition has completely set, you need to additionally walk over the area with an acrylic primer. It helps to even out the layer. It is better to apply the composition to the seams with a brush. If you need to treat large areas, you should choose a spray bottle.

Acid primer is a mixture of phosphoric acid and zinc, it is primary and is sprayed directly onto the bare metal.

Important! Do not apply the composition to old putty or poorly cleaned metal, otherwise the subsequent coating will peel off over time. Acid primer is applied only to clean, degreased metal; if there are old coating particles, you can use acidic epoxy primer.

In each case, the substance requires subsequent coating with a 2-component primer and filler. When high-quality preparation has been completed, you can begin coating with an additional layer of primer, putty and paint.

You cannot apply other compounds directly to the acid coating, the only exception being an insulating primer. Etching is a critical vehicle prep and treatment procedure to ensure metal integrity and corrosion protection. Welding seams are always coated with the substance.

Types of acid soils for cars

There are 4 main groups based on composition:

with one component. The composition is immediately ready for use, there is no need for preparation or preparation. Most often sold in a can for simple application of acid primer, but can be adapted for spray coating in 1 thin layer. When the material acquires the proper qualities, it is treated on top with acrylic with hardener additives;
2-component. Before use, you must prepare the substance; to do this, just mix it with the activator. The consistency of the product can be hard or soft. Professionals prefer hard options, as they result in a more durable film over the entire surface. Can be applied in 1, 2 or 3 layers, it is worth considering the recommendations of the product manufacturer. Between each application you need to maintain an interval of about 5 minutes in warm rooms;

reactive form. It is used to process pure metal coating; it forms a tiny layer (from 8 to 13 microns). The top also needs acrylic coating. It is the basis; the necessary layers are then applied to it;
Self-Etch primer. Refers to the ingredients that make up the soil; it means a composition with the addition of zinc. Used to eliminate irregularities and improve the quality of grip. Initially, the acidic substance acts on the metal, causing a protective coating of frozen polymer products to appear.

Principles of use, maximum layer thickness and mixing methods are described for each product separately and may vary significantly.

Preparing the body for priming

For a high-quality and durable coating on a machine, you need to use proven processing technology:

Initially, preparatory work is carried out in the room where painting will take place.
The surface is cleaned down to metal, removing remnants of old paint, dirt, dust, putty, etc.
External inspection of the vehicle and selection of optimal enamel.
Protection of vehicle parts that should not be processed.
Degreasing metal, as well as grinding using an abrasive agent.
Using putty.
Formation of an anti-corrosion coating.

In the process of cleaning and degreasing work, it is better to use a brush; you can use an aerosol form. When using a spray can, the coating turns out much smoother, and it is easier to apply acid primer.

Acid primer for cars is a means of protecting against corrosion and improving the adhesive properties of the material.

During the implementation of the steps, the use of protective equipment will be required:

for breathing - a respirator;
for hands - rubber gloves;
for body skin - thick clothes and shoes.

The cleaned metal surface has a high risk of corrosion. The metal body cannot withstand the slightest damage. An acid primer is used to create a protective layer; it serves as a bonding layer between the paint finish and the body material.

Surface for epoxy primer

Before processing, you should properly prepare the surface - this way epoxy primer for cars adheres much better. The work algorithm is approximately as follows:

clean the body from old paintwork and rust using a sandblaster or grinder;
if necessary, carry out mechanical straightening;
degrease the surface;
treat the surface with anti-corrosion agents;
defects need to be puttied;
After the putty has dried, sand the surface.

Important: when working with the substance, you must follow safety precautions. The primer must be used strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Drafts and dust should not be allowed to form in the room.

What are they?

Epoxy primer mixtures have some differences in composition, which affects their basic technical characteristics.

The classification of soil is influenced by the following factors:

the material from which the structure to be processed is made: concrete or metal;
temperature regime at which the mixture begins to harden;
components that are included in the composition as a hardener;

Possibility of use with various paints and varnishes;
According to their composition, one-component and two-component types are distinguished;
manufacturer.

One-component

Epoxy resin-based primer is most often produced in the form of a two-component mixture. The exception is epoxy mixtures, which are applied as a preliminary coating to the car body. Basically, one-component primer is produced in the form of an aerosol.

In many respects, the material is inferior to two-component mixtures, so it is not very popular among car owners.

In addition to its main purpose, a one-component concrete mixture can be used for wood processing. Wood structures coated with epoxy acquire good moisture resistance.

In addition, one-component solutions are used for complex concrete bases and to improve the level of adhesion with such materials as:

ceramic tile;
tree;
linoleum.

Two-component

Two-component mixtures are most popular for working on metal and concrete. It is believed that this composition has better quality and higher performance characteristics than a one-component primer.

Car owners prefer this type of primer. In addition to the excellent protective properties of the coating, two-component compositions for cars can be painted with special pastes to improve the color of the final paint layer.

For metal

Epoxy primer for metal surfaces, first of all, has good anti-corrosion properties. In addition to epoxy resins, this mixture contains elements such as zinc and phosphoric acid, due to which the soil prevents the formation of corrosion. Epoxy resin-based metal primer is mainly available in two-component form.

If necessary, you can cover the layer of epoxy mixture with an acrylic-based primer.

Zinc-rich

A two-component zinc-rich mixture based on epoxy resin is used as a coating for subsequent painting with epoxy and polyurethane paints. This material can also be used as a finishing coating for metal structures that are exposed to the negative effects of the external environment.

Due to the high content of zinc elements, this primer perfectly protects steel surfaces from corrosion. This coating will last more than ten years as a base layer and more than twenty years in combination with other protective compounds.

For concrete

Epoxy primer is used to treat concrete floors and walls. In turn, mixtures for concrete have their own classification:

Universal. This type of soil is excellent as a coating for self-leveling floors.
Winter configuration. Winter primer is adapted for use at zero and negative temperatures.
Quick primer mixture. This type is characterized by a high polymerization rate. Does not contain solvents.
Compositions that prevent corrosion.

One-component acid primer

One-component acid primer does not require the addition of an activator. This primer is sold both for application with a spray gun and in cans.

Acid primer contains no fillers and dries to a very thin layer.

One thin layer is enough. Applying a thick layer or several thin layers of a one-part acid primer will not make it more effective.

It must be remembered that any one-component product is in an unstable (unhardened) state and can affect the next layer of coating. Immediately after drying, the acid primer should be coated with a two-component (with hardener) acrylic filler primer.

old light

The second approach is European, more serious. In addition to treating hidden cavities with ML oils, hard (bitumen) protective compounds are applied to open underbody panels and wheel arches. This method is more demanding on the quality of preparatory work.

It is important to thoroughly wash the open bottom panels, otherwise the bitumen compounds will quickly peel off

The main advantage of bitumen coatings is their high mechanical strength. Various types of them, for example, compositions for liquid fender liners or for underbody panels, can protect the metal from external influences for a long time.

Bituminous coatings can be applied to rust, but with reservations. If the corrosion is superficial, just in case, the affected area is impregnated with ML oil and after that a solid composition is applied. With deeper layer-by-layer rust, impregnation with ML composition may not help. Moreover, the development of corrosion cannot be controlled, because bitumen coatings, unlike ML oils, are opaque. Therefore, in each specific case, the master assesses the degree of rust damage and the possibility of applying a bitumen coating over it.

When treating the bottom with a bitumen composition, the same restrictions apply as with ML oils. If bitumen gets into the outlet, like ML oils, it can be removed with solvents, but you will have to spend much more time and effort.

DANGEROUS SAVINGS

There are a huge number of companies on the market offering their anti-corrosion compounds. All products have comparable quality, but preference should be given to well-known players, for example: Tectyl, Noxudol, Dinitrol, Waxoyl.

Branded chemicals are not the cheapest, but they have been tested many times. This is what specialized services work with, having seen the results of using products from dubious manufacturers. Low-quality products do not protect, but kill the body. For example, left ML oils, instead of deeply impregnating surfaces and seams, creating a protective layer, act in the opposite way. They have very low fluidity, clog drains, and also form a thick membrane film, under which corrosion only accelerates. And cheap bitumen compounds have an extremely short service life. Drying quickly and cracking, they to some extent protect the body from mechanical stress, but not from corrosion.

Dilute the mixture

Acrylic primers are component compositions. The technology of their dilution depends on this. For such purposes, experts recommend using several substances:

The optimal thinner will be a special acrylic mixture that is compatible with a particular brand. Often, such solutions are recommended by the manufacturers of these products.
Water. This mixture can only be used in cases where the soil contains a similar component. Water-acrylic mixtures are often diluted.

Some users recommend using a special thinner 647. But this issue is controversial, since the use of this product depends on the properties of the selected primer.

The amount of thinner often does not exceed 25% of the total volume of the mixture. Please note that it is important here to also consider the amount of hardener that is added to the solution when mixing.

You can find out the exact proportions and recommended solvent on the packaging. It is important to follow all basic recommendations to obtain high-quality and durable protection.

Canadian approach

Canada has a humid, cold climate that favors the appearance and development of corrosion. Therefore, it is Canada that is considered the legislator of the so-called ML method of body protection, although it was invented in Scandinavia.

The method involves pouring ML oils (analogues of the usual Movil and the popular Rast Stop product) into hidden cavities of the entire body through existing factory technological holes and drains. Penetrating compounds well impregnate welds and cover the internal surfaces with a film that reliably insulates from contact with air. The outside of the bottom is covered with the same materials.

The ML method is not demanding on the quality of body preparation and forgives a lot of mistakes when applying the composition. In Canada, for example, they don’t wash the bottom thoroughly, but only knock off large pieces of dirt. The ML oils used have excellent penetrating ability and saturate surfaces and seams well even in such conditions.

They can be applied over any rust - the composition includes inhibitors (chemical reaction retarders) of corrosion. But to achieve maximum effect, it is better to thoroughly rinse the bottom and its hidden cavities.

The disadvantage of ML oils is low mechanical strength. In hidden cavities they last for years, and on open surfaces they wear off quite quickly.

Chemical manufacturers also develop processing schemes for machines of specific models. They indicate factory technological holes and additional ones that are proposed to be drilled in order to fully fill all hidden cavities. In fact, servicemen rarely make holes in the body, if only because the owners are often against it. In most cases, additional holes are not so necessary for full processing. By the way, these diagrams are useful for studying the structure of a particular body, especially when a rare model arrives for processing.

SWEDISH REPLY

The abbreviation ML denotes anti-corrosion compounds for hidden cavities of the car body, as well as the treatment method. Behind these letters are two authors: the Swedish automobile association Motormannen and the ideologist of the direction, Sven Laurin. At the end of the 50s of the last century, one of the specialized companies offered car owners a new service - complete body processing using the ML method. Although this technology was first tested 20 years earlier.

The Swedish ancestry is explained by the difficult local climate, which accelerates the processes of iron corrosion. On a global scale, power engineers faced this problem when the country began to actively build high-voltage masts. Their tubular structures were rotting from the inside at an alarming rate. It was then that Laurin proposed his own method - pour anti-corrosion oils into hidden cavities through existing or drilled holes.

Movil, the Soviet analogue of Swedish ML oils, received a consonant name by accident. This composition was developed much later by scientists in Moscow and Vilnius, the Russian and Lithuanian capitals, and gave the product a name. In those days, it was fashionable to invent funny abbreviations and abbreviations.

How to prime a car body

If you plan to work with small defects, a spray can is quite suitable. The primer in a metal can must first be mixed with a solvent and, if necessary, a hardener. The latter is necessary if a one-component type of product is used.

The substance must be thoroughly stirred until smooth. The hardener must be added in stages, depending on the number of layers applied.

The composition must be diluted strictly as written in the instructions. You need to apply the substance with a roller or brush; you can also use a spray gun. The primer is applied with a brush or roller, taking into account the following rules:

the first layer is very thin;
After 15 minutes you can apply the second layer, and after another 15 minutes the third layer. Without reference to a time interval - you can apply a new layer when the previous one becomes matte;
you need to apply the substance smoothly, but without staying in one place for a long time;
Avoid abrupt transitions and gaps.

Using a spray gun, apply the primer as follows:

the first layer should be thin and even, so the distance from the surface to the sprayer should be 20–30 cm;
In order for the substance to be evenly distributed over the surface, the movements must be cross.

With this technology of applying the substance, there may be smudges and other minor defects, which can be easily removed by sanding before painting.

The room where the car surface is being primed should be free of dust, drafts and dirt. It is better if the lighting is daylight spectrum, of moderate brightness.

If you plan to prime not the entire car, but only individual parts, the “non-working” areas must be covered with film and masking tape. The windows and headlights must also be covered.

Important! Do not forget about personal protective equipment while working!

Preparing the body for priming

For a high-quality and durable coating on a machine, you need to use proven processing technology:

Initially, preparatory work is carried out in the room where painting will take place.
The surface is cleaned down to metal, removing remnants of old paint, dirt, dust, putty, etc.
External inspection of the vehicle and selection of optimal enamel.
Protection of vehicle parts that should not be processed.
Degreasing metal, as well as grinding using an abrasive agent.
Using putty.
Formation of an anti-corrosion coating.

Acid primer for cars is a means of protecting against corrosion and improving the adhesive properties of the material.

During the implementation of the steps, the use of protective equipment will be required:

for breathing - a respirator;
for hands - rubber gloves;
for body skin - thick clothes and shoes.

If you choose the wrong primer material, various defects often appear on the final coat of paint. This leads to a waste of time, effort and materials.

Scope of use

Painting with epoxy primer is in demand not only when working on a vehicle - this type of substance can be used to coat other large objects, but only metal ones.

Important! The primer for concrete work should not be confused with the one used for metal work. These are completely different products in composition, and the result of the work can be unpredictable, not in the positive sense of the word.

In general, “epoxy” can be used in the following cases:

on top of “bare” metal - it can be either steel or aluminum;
over a mixed surface - with putty;
as a final insulating layer;
as a means of improving surface resistance to mechanical damage;
application to fiberglass parts, but only as the first layer.

Types of primers for car bodies

There are three main types of primers:

acrylic;
epoxy;
acidic (phosphate, reactive).

Acrylic primer is used to fill small pores of putty and old layers of paint and form an adhesive layer for the base paint. One of the undesirable properties of this soil is hygroscopicity. The moisture accumulated by it contributes to metal corrosion, so acrylic must be dried well.

Epoxy primers form an airtight film, so they are often used as an insulating layer. It can be used for both steel parts and non-ferrous metal parts, as well as for galvanic coatings. This is an excellent waterproofing agent that has high adhesion.

Acidic soils react with metal, forming a film of oxides on it and penetrating into its structure. Such primers are classified as rust converters and are actively used to coat old bodies, where surface grinding does not guarantee complete elimination of corrosion in the pores. Metal protected by acid soil becomes much more resistant to corrosion.

Not all of the soils listed above are fully compatible. For example, epoxy primer is not recommended to be applied over phosphate primer. Moreover, epoxy does not cause a conflict, but simply neutralizes the effect of acidic soil.

However, if the acidic (phosphate) primer is allowed to react with the base for a few hours, it can be opened with epoxy primer. Acrylic primer can be applied immediately as it does not contain acid neutralizing agents.

Primer Basics

After pasting the car, you can start diluting the soil. First of all, you need to mix it thoroughly to lift heavy components from the bottom of the jar, and then dilute it with a hardener (it is highly advisable to use only the original one) and a solvent (preferably the original one, but 646 is also possible). The proportions must be indicated on the can.

It is better not to dilute by eye, but to use a special container where you can see the grams.

It is advisable to filter the finished mixture through a proprietary filter or ordinary gauze, folded 3-4 times. Usually it is enough to apply the primer in 2-3 layers

It is extremely important to maintain a drying time of 5-10 minutes between coats.

Otherwise, the soil may boil, which is highly undesirable.

There are also primers in black, white, red and other colors. Using this palette you can mix primers and get the desired color

It is important to remember that the materials being mixed must be from the same company.

Before applying the primer, you must wipe the car with an antistatic cloth, then degrease it with anti-silicone or alcohol.

According to technology, the first layer needs to be filled normally. But, if the primer is applied to the old paintwork, which in some places has been rubbed down to the old primer, then it is in these places that the new primer can be undermined. To prevent this, you need to spray the first layer and dry it for about 10 minutes.

The second and third layers can be poured, then allowed to dry for 24 hours.

The soil can be treated either dry or with water. It should be remembered here that soils partially absorb water, which over time leads to metal corrosion, therefore, it is better to process dry. A special grinding machine can help with this.

For metallic paint, the body should be sanded with R-600 and R-800 sandpaper, but for regular acrylic, R-400 and R-500 will be sufficient.

New parts need to be given extra attention, because they are covered with shipping primer (usually black). In order for the car repair to be of high quality, the transport soil must be sanded down to metal using R-240 sandpaper.

After this procedure, you can put 2-3 layers of soil.

After 10-15 minutes, you need to develop the primer with paint of a contrasting color. The next day you can start cleaning. During processing, development may show minor unevenness. When is it okay not to remove old paint from walls?

In this case, you will need to re-prime the flaws or the entire part.

Do-it-yourself car priming is absolutely safe if you approach it correctly. The fact is that during any paintwork, including body priming, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment (respirator, gloves, suit). Primer fumes are very harmful, so be careful about your health.

How to properly apply epoxy primer to a car?

For all epoxy primers, there are general operating rules: the coating takes a long time to dry, the minimum period after which repairs can be continued is given in the instructions for the primer.

Priming a car must be done in a well-ventilated area, and there is no place for dust.

Before you start priming, you need to cover those parts that will not be primed. For priming we use a priming spray bottle. You must first prepare the surface for priming; to do this, you first need to thoroughly sand the areas, if there are any uneven areas or paint residues.

To do this we use grain sandpaper.

Next, level the surface and putty.

It is important to level the surface well so that it becomes smooth.

Dry the surface to be treated thoroughly before priming.

Remove dust by wiping with a slightly damp cloth and wipe the surface dry. This stage of car painting, such as priming the body, requires sanding after completion.

The primer layer must be rubbed in carefully so as not to cause damage, since this layer is quite thin. For sanding the primer, use 800 grit.

How does epoxy primer differ from other compounds?

High hygroscopicity is one of the biggest advantages of epoxy-based compounds. Such characteristics allow the soil not to pass through or absorb water molecules. In addition, the material is also characterized by the strength and resistance of the surface to mechanical stress, which is important when painting a car.

Comparing epoxy compositions with acid ones in terms of these qualities, it should be noted that the latter are not hygroscopic and allow water to pass through. Although there are always pros and cons. In this case, the epoxy composition is inferior to the acid composition in drying speed.

Now, when choosing a primer for a car, you can quickly find your bearings, and, knowing the qualities of the epoxy composition, assess the situation and decide whether the Reoflex epoxy primer is right for you, or whether it is better to give preference to another brand.

Reactive primer

This makes it much faster to prime when wet, without waiting for it to dry. Underhood - putty with brush sealant - filling with ordinary primer - epoxy primer - anti-gravel - varnish The bottom and arches - putty with brush sealant on seams and sandblasting areas, then - ordinary primer - gravitex - epoxy primer - rubber-bitumen mastic diluted with gasoline and a little Movil.

In the first case, the anti-gravel under varnish will look aesthetically beautiful and will hide all the flaws and welding, in the second case, the epoxy will protect the anti-gravel and will not allow moisture to reach the metal, and the rubber-bitumen mastic will create a shell from stones and rubble. Please note, this is an anti-corrosion recipe for new metal and application from scratch!

To update the old anticorrosive agent, you need to make another mixture that will be liquid and self-heal in the heat, but that’s another story) TRIO primer is a two-component product that is applied using a paint gun.

Two-component acid primer

Two-part acid primer must be mixed with an activator to be used.

Acid primer with activator is applied in 1 layer. It is not an independent, complete soil. Secondary (acrylic) primer is applied as the next layer, after 15–20 minutes.

From experience, we can say that two-component acid primers are better at transforming rust residues remaining after cleaning and provide better protection against corrosion.

Which soil is better?

Acid primer uses acid to chemically clean and etch (microscopically embed) metal to produce a surface with improved adhesion to subsequent secondary primer. It is designed for use on regular metal and on surfaces with poor adhesion (aluminium, galvanized steel and alloys). Its advantages are that no mechanical preparation of the metal (grinding) is required and it dries quickly. Secondary primer can be applied 15 to 20 minutes after applying the acid primer. Acidic soil can retard residual corrosion that cannot be removed by sanding. A disadvantage or feature is its weak protective function (anti-corrosion and poor wear resistance). Also, putty (or putty, whatever you like) cannot be applied to this primer, and it is not advisable to apply it over putty.

Epoxy primer provides excellent adhesion as well as anti-corrosion protection. Unlike acid primer, before applying it, you need to sand the metal so that the primer adheres well, since it has mechanical adhesion (it holds on to the marks, flows into the pores). The disadvantage, or rather the peculiarity, of epoxy primer is its long drying time. Unlike acid primer, epoxy primer can be applied to any surface, and you can also apply putty, acrylic primer, or paint directly onto it.

What's the result? Both primers provide excellent adhesion. This is an indisputable fact. Acid primer is indispensable if there are minor corrosion residues on the metal. Otherwise, epoxy primer has more advantages. If there are no corrosion problems on the metal being repaired, then you can safely use epoxy primer.

What is acidic soil made of?

Acid soil is a transparent composition with a shade of gray or light green.

As already mentioned, the composition of acid soils may differ from each other, depending on the manufacturer and have different proportions.

The base polymer is usually polyvinyl butyral; the composition also contains phosphoric (orthophosphoric) acid (small amount), isopropyl alcohol, zinc chromate (or zinc phosphate), talc (about 2%) and other additives.

Zinc chromate is a component that increases the corrosion protection of metal. In an etching primer, phosphoric acid reacts with the metal, while zinc chromate does not react chemically with the metal. In fact, zinc chromate can be added to primers with various polymers, such as epoxy, polyurethane. It adds anti-corrosion properties to the product to which it is added.

In some countries, the chemical reagent zinc chromate is banned due to its high toxicity, so the soil contains other components of a similar effect.

How to remove the front and rear bumpers on VAZ 2110 and 2112? Simple ways

Many people are interested in how to remove the front and rear bumpers on VAZ 2110 and 2112. There may be several reasons for this work. Although, in general, this body kit element looks quite good. And he has enough strength. Which makes motorists very happy. Our roads are not very smooth; it is not difficult to catch a stone with your bumper. In winter, snow is not always cleared off. Therefore, the bumpers get hit quite hard. To reduce the risk of damage to this element, you must drive as carefully as possible. In winter, carry a shovel with you. If there is a snowdrift in front of you, then it makes sense to get out of the car and dig it out, at the same time you will warm up.

Acid soil, application

Original panels are factory galvanized and electroplated to provide corrosion protection. When repairing surfaces polished to metal, they lose their protective properties. Therefore, to ensure excellent anti-corrosion properties, it is necessary to apply an etching primer.
If there is a small amount of rust that cannot be removed, you can also use acid primer.
If you have a structure or part with clean metal and places that are difficult to reach for abrasive treatment, you can use an acid primer to prepare for applying the next layer of acrylic primer.
Before priming with secondary primer and painting non-ferrous metals, it is recommended to increase adhesion with a wash primer.

The “competitor” of acid primer is epoxy primer. You can read the article about the differences between these soils and the subtleties of application.

Examples of acid primers (grades)

You can choose the best acid primer only taking into account the individual characteristics of the car, but often preference is given to:

DUR 1:1 (reactive primer with phosphate)

The manufacturer DUR has achieved rapid acquisition of strength, a high degree of coating reliability and excellent adhesive properties. A positive quality is the absence of chromate among the ingredients. To speed up curing, a reaction catalyst is used, it is included in the kit. Sold in the form of a gray liquid in 1 liter containers.

Body 960 Wash Primer

It is a 2-component primer, it has a yellow color and is used to coat stainless, galvanized, aluminum and galvanized materials. Before use, you need to mix the product with the hardener, and then the mixture is applied to the metal surface with a layer of 10 microns. Drying time is 10 minutes.

After application there is no need for sanding, only a leveling layer, which can be any two-component material, with the exception of polyester.

Mobihel

Belongs to a one-component group. It is gray in color and has high anti-corrosion properties. Can protect steel, galvanized and aluminum.

The chemical properties of the material serve as a very effective prevention against rust and protect the material from the effects of salt and moisture.

The product is used as follows:

The soil is mixed with the diluting liquid in a ratio of 5 to 1.
The surface is prepared using fine-grained material.
Spray in 1 layer using a spray gun, setting the nozzle to 1.3.
Wait 1 hour for hardening, sanding is no longer needed, you can immediately treat it with primer, paint and varnish.

Radex CR 1+1

The primer is good at etching metal to protect it from corrosion. Consists of 2 components: main liquid and hardener. Both formulations are sold in 1 liter containers. Before work, you need to mix both ingredients in a 1 to 1 ratio.

Professionals recommend the product for processing brand new steel body parts and for repair work on aluminum, steel and galvanized steel. The advantage is strong adhesion that prevents corrosion.

Reoflex 2K 1+1

Consists of 2 components: yellow primer with a phosphating component and a hardener. It is used to restore damaged coatings, but can be used for new parts. Hardening time is 15 minutes, temperature is 20 °C. Recommended layer thickness is 10 microns.

Application of acid primer

It is important to shake and mix the soil thoroughly before use.
The soil should be sprayed at temperatures from +10 to +32 degrees Celsius.

Before applying the phosphating primer, the surface must be especially thoroughly degreased. It is better to do this with rubber gloves so as not to accidentally leave fingerprints.
To create good adhesion to metal, you need to apply a wet layer of acidic primer.
It is better that the film thickness does not exceed 8 microns, otherwise adhesion will deteriorate. Usually one wet coat is sufficient.
According to technology, acid primer is effective on “bare” metal. Getting a small amount of this primer on old paint or putty will not create a problem.
After applying the acid primer, you need to wait about 10–20 minutes until the primer dries before applying secondary primer.
No sanding is required before applying acrylic fill primer.

Application technology

Applying primer to the surface is easier than it seems at first glance.

When working you will need:

foam roller;
flat brush;
small flat brush;
gloves;
flat container for primer.

In the case of a dry concentrate, it is worth adding to this kit a container for diluting the material, which is diluted strictly in the proportions specified by the manufacturer (usually 1: 4).

After preparing the necessary equipment and the primer itself, they begin to treat the surfaces. The soil is poured into a flat container, covering approximately 1/3 of the volume of the roller placed in it. You should not pour more: the solution will flow off the roller in large quantities, which is inconvenient when treating the surfaces of walls or ceilings. The roller is convenient because with its help the time spent on surface treatment is halved.

There is no need to fill the walls: the primer already has a high penetrating ability. However, you shouldn’t save money either: the main thing is that there are no splashes when rolling the surface. Movements should not be sudden: this is especially true if the renovation of the room is partial. If soil gets on, say, wallpaper, stains may remain on it.

The solution is taken onto a roller and rolled onto the surface for further cladding. Since any work cannot do without processing the corners of joints and inconvenient places, the working tool is replaced with a brush of the required size. The roller cannot cope with neat processing of corners: usually in this case it is impossible to avoid drips on the walls.

When all surfaces have been processed, you must immediately remove any remaining primer from the tools and containers. If you leave this until later, the foam and bristles of the brush will become oak. After they harden, the brushes and foam coat will have to be thrown away. During work, the material should be poured into the container little by little: it will not be possible to pour the remainder back into a common canister (they will contain tiny dust particles or microfragments of cement screed).

What characterizes the composition

One of the important advantages of soils is their high resistance to temperature and mechanical influences, good adhesion properties and uniform drying of layers.

Buyers note that car surfaces coated with such a composition will be well protected, even before the main coat of paint is applied. In addition, the composition does not fade or peel off from the surface.

As customers note in reviews of the Reoflex epoxy primer, the composition can indeed (as the manufacturer claims) be used to coat metal surfaces that are under water or subject to frequent exposure to it, without losing the performance properties of the material.

Due to its characteristics, multi-component automotive primer can be called an effective protective composition among the main high-strength paintwork materials. To produce such products, epoxy resin is used, which is the main component.

It is interesting that matte compositions, including Reoflex epoxy primer, contain not only resins, but also chemical components.

Tips and recommendations for use

Before choosing a composition, it is important to consider the conditions under which the operation will be carried out. This is especially true for humidity and temperature

Don't forget about direct ultraviolet rays. It is worth remembering that when using different tools, different effects appear. For example, a roller increases consumption.

Instructions from the manufacturer for stirring and applying the compositions are required to be studied before starting work. In most cases, preparation work is done like this:

Old paint layers are removed by firing, grinding machines or an abrasive brush.
The metal is cleaned until only the natural coating remains. You need to make sure that only the rough part remains on top. Only in this case will there be no doubt about the reliability of the clutch.
First, apply the first layer of metal primer and wait until it dries completely. And they move on to the second.

The initial and final coatings are also considered before selection. After all, some materials may simply be incompatible with each other.

Alcohol-based metal primers are the easiest to use. They dry quickly and do not require additional care. Excess corrosion is cleaned with a brush, even when highly specialized compounds are used. It is recommended to apply the compositions before this or that item is again used in the environment, especially at elevated temperatures.

It is recommended to apply the formulations before the item is put back into use in the environment.

How to properly prime metal for painting, is it possible for rust?

Preliminary grinding of the surface is required, including if it was originally glossy. Grinding and polishing are different materials and stages of work that should not be confused with each other. They contribute to the formation of a new layer, but it will already be rough. Polishing smoothes out everything completely, even microscopic marks. The main thing is to prime correctly.

Any manifestations of rust must be removed from the base only when using compounds without any transforming substances. Sandpaper or a sander usually helps. Sandblasting increases speed even more, but is preferred in industrial production

The absence of bald spots is important when using a primer

So-called “combined” three-in-one compounds are often applied to the rust layer. The speed of work will be higher, but the effect of protection itself does not last as long as in other situations. Primer enamel has a service life of up to 5-10 years, regardless of the type of iron.

Preliminary grinding of the surface is required, including if it was originally glossy.

Types of epoxy primer

There are two types of epoxy primer on the modern market for painting and automotive repair materials:

One-component. Available in aerosol form, it does not require additional preparation before use. It is used in the process of carrying out minor repairs - eliminating minor damage and painting individual body parts;
Two-component. Sold in tins, requires mixing with hardener and solvent before use.

Epoxy primer is applied to the car body using a roller or an air gun. A pneumatic gun makes it possible to achieve more uniform spraying over the surface; it is advisable to use it for anti-corrosion treatment of large-area materials.

Epoxy primer: properties, advantages and disadvantages

Epoxy primer for cars is made on the basis of epoxy resins and special chemical elements. This primer is notable for its versatility. It can act as a filler, as an anti-corrosion coating, and as a thermoplastic insulator.

Very often, priming a car with such a product is performed due to the need for a hard sandable base, which becomes the film obtained as a result of processing.

Epoxy primer is suitable for the following materials:

In fact, epoxy primer is the only product that can be applied to polyester putty.

If we talk about the properties of an automotive primer on this basis, we can name:

strength;
plastic;
excellent adhesion;
uniform drying of layers;
heat resistance;
resistance to external mechanical damage;
non-hygroscopic;
durability.