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Wood is most often used in the construction of gazebos or house verandas. True, wood also has disadvantages: poor resistance to moisture and high flammability. Therefore, any owner of a comfortable summer house is interested in how to treat a wooden gazebo on the street so that it lasts for a long time.
Why wood needs protection
Wood is natural, “living” and “breathing”; in its original form, the bark protects it from all external influences. When turning a log into a building material, even if it is a wild or chopped log, it is debarked. And when producing timber and boards, they are dissolved into several parts. Left without a natural shell, wood is unable to withstand external influences. There are not so many varieties characterized by increased density, hardness and resistance to moisture and, as a rule, they are not used for construction. While the most popular wood species are distinguished by good permeability, due to which they absorb moisture, are affected by pathogenic microflora, and lose their original properties under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.
Not to mention the fact that the gradual deterioration of a tree is laid down by nature itself so that the result of its “life activity” is dust that is safe and even beneficial for the environment. From the first day of use as a construction or finishing facade material, wood is exposed to various negative influences.
Climatic:
- Atmospheric moisture and precipitation;
- Solar radiation;
- Wind loads.
Biological:
- Pathogenic microflora (bacteria, fungi, mosses);
- Insect pests.
All of the above are equally dangerous for a tree, and even the location of the facade affects the degree of danger.
House_headFORUMHOUSE Member
I have a log house made of rounded logs (260 mm), assembled in November 2016 (i.e., summer wood), with a roof. In the winter of 2016 I did not treat it with anything. In the spring of 2022, I covered the ends with a specialized protective impregnation and treated them with a temporary water-based antiseptic for the period of shrinkage. I haven't done anything else until today. From time to time, bluing and blackening appeared locally, both inside and outside, so I treated them with wood bleach.
Recently, significant fungal damage was noticed on the external log beams and walls of the log house. I would like to clarify - is the appearance of fungus caused by the fact that the log house has not yet dried out? Or the fact that it is not processed/painted? Or is it external influences (rain, sleet, above-zero temperatures in winter)?
DAW Technician
All of these factors together can cause the appearance of fungus or mold. The cause of damage to wood may also be the northern location of the facade, since it is this side that is more susceptible to the appearance of fungus or mold.
If we talk about decking, interior decoration and floor coverings, then instead of precipitation there are fluctuations in temperature and humidity conditions and mechanical influences, as well as ultraviolet radiation. And mold and woodworms will reach both outside and inside, under conditions favorable to them. Therefore, not only on the facade, but also in the house, wall or ceiling cladding and floorboards or parquet need protection.
Why is processing needed?
Wood processing allows you to protect it from the destructive effects of ultraviolet radiation, as well as from fungus, mold, and insects. Otherwise, after 1–2 years the tree will lose about 90% of its mechanical stability, and the structure will simply collapse. Impregnation will also help preserve the natural pattern of the wood cut, and if you plan to apply paint on top, the treatment will reduce its consumption by 50–60%.
Another important nuance: impregnation of wood must be carried out in several passes. This is true for primers, natural and synthetic oils. Only in this case can a wooden gazebo be protected by 99% from environmental influences.
How to protect wood
The main problem of wooden surfaces is the ability to absorb moisture - and wet wood is not only an excellent environment for pathogens, but also a deterioration in technical and decorative parameters. The sun also does not add positive properties to the tree, since under the influence of ultraviolet light lignin is destroyed and the surface not only turns gray, but also becomes loose and begins to absorb not only more strongly, but also more deeply. Therefore, the main task is to reduce the permeability of wood and increase its resistance to UV radiation.
For this purpose, a number of specialized products are used that cover wooden surfaces after certain preparatory measures.
There are several types of protective materials.
- Sealants – for sealing inter-crown seams, cracks, crevices and ends.
- Antiseptics - to prevent biological damage and increase the moisture resistance of the surface (have hydrophobic properties). Antiseptics can be both highly specialized and universal, combining several properties, for example, protection against biological damage, fire and ultraviolet radiation and surface coloring.
- Primers – reduce the consumption of finishing agents and increase adhesion.
- Protective and decorative products – varnishes, paints, oils, waxes, emulsions, glazes.
Sealants, antiseptics and primers are intermediate, preparatory materials used both during the period of standing of log houses and in preparation for the application of finishing coatings. Protective and decorative products are used in the interior and on facades as finishing coatings that not only protect the surface, but also increase its attractiveness.
What type of coating should I choose for my decking?
Experienced craftsmen advise owners of private houses to use special oil to cover decking boards. This is a universal, durable material with a high degree of protection. Oil is considered an environmentally friendly product. It is safe for human health, since only oils of natural origin are used in the composition.
Among the benefits that speak in favor of the oil are the following:
- the board acquires a matte finish and natural shine, highlighting the beauty of the texture;
- the material does not crack or dry out under oil, since it can “breathe”, that is, absorb and release moisture;
- Thanks to the presence of special additives, it is easy to buy tinting oil, formulations with waxes or mixtures to reduce surface slip.
The oil guarantees a high degree of ultraviolet protection. Dirt from the oil-coated decking is easily washed off with water pressure. At any temperature, the coating retains high elasticity. Oils with colorants emphasize the structure of wood, and the material looks more expensive and respectable.
Selection and application of wood protection products
Manufacturers offer both individual products and entire systems for any situation and accompany the products with the most detailed instructions. What exactly to use depends on the initial conditions - the specifics of the operating mode, the type of wooden surface and the desired effect.
House_head
Treated the lesions with bleach to stop the development. What actions need to be taken and when to stop the existing fungus and stop its appearance and development in the future?
Technical Specialist
It depends on what you plan to do next: if for further painting, you need to remove blue stains and mold, then treat the surface with a biocide, apply a primer with biocides as the next layer, and then apply any topcoat paint from trusted brands on top. In any case, you need to start fighting fungus and mold as soon as the first signs appear in order to prevent further destruction of the wood.
If we are talking about re-processing, the recommendations are different.
PavelForumHouse Member
Help with the choice. About ten years ago I painted a house made of profiled timber with brown alkyd impregnation. Now the knots on the sunny side have burned out, and black spots have appeared on the terrace under the roof. In general, it needs to be painted. I want to repaint the house a noble gray color. What to choose, alkyd or acrylic paint?
Technical Specialist
In order to prevent further coating from yellowing in places where there is tarring, it is necessary to use a special insulating primer. But in general, the algorithm is as follows - removing the old coating by grinding. Next, choose the material system you want to work with: water-based or solvent-based. And you decide on the visual component - to preserve the natural grain of the wood or use covering paint. If you want a natural pattern, then you need to prime the surface with a wood primer and apply several layers of the finishing material - azure, which can be tinted to the desired shade.
Terraces and floorings, on the one hand - on the street, on the other - are completely or partially closed from direct contact with moisture, as well as from sunlight. But they need protection no less than the façade. And when choosing protective equipment, you need to pay attention not only to the visual effect, but also to the properties and compatibility of materials.
Exlibris_v1FORUMHOUSE Member
The task is to cover the flooring in front of the house, edged board 150x40 mm, planed on 3 sides. It faces almost strictly north, and is shaded from the sun most of the day. I thought about treating the bottom with a preservative indelible antiseptic (gives it a greenish color) because it’s still not visible, the sides and top with a colorless universal antiseptic, and the top with oil or varnish. Having now studied the topic, I realized that there is a possibility that oil or varnish may simply not go well with an antiseptic, and besides, they write that an antiseptic is not needed for oil at all.
Technical Specialist
When using oil as a surface protector, it is not recommended to use an antiseptic, since the oil is absorbed into the open pores of the wood. The use of an antiseptic leads to their filling, which complicates the process of absorption and further drying of the oil on the surface.
In the interior, wooden cladding is required to maintain a presentable appearance, which deteriorates both due to contamination and due to intensive use, if we are talking about floor coverings. But regardless of the type of surface, everyone strives to emphasize and preserve the look for as long as possible.
a991ruFORUMHOUSE Member
If you choose a varnish for parquet and take maximum durability as a basis (so that the floors are not damaged for at least 10-15 years), then which varnishes should you look for? It will be necessary to cover 85 m². And about the layers. Many people write that it is impossible to apply varnish in 4 layers, because bubbling is possible. I thought that the more layers, the higher the durability or is there some other dependency?
Technical Specialist
The service life of varnish indoors depends, to a large extent, on the degree of load of the finishing coating: surfaces with a low degree of traffic last a long time. As for the number of layers, three is enough.
For interior spaces, we recommend using a water-based varnish for parquet and floors if you want a pleasant matte finish. And an alkyd, polyurethane-reinforced varnish for wooden floors, if the goal is to create a glossy finish. The products of the famous German brand are time-tested and have proven their effectiveness and reliability. Three layers are enough.
Acrylic paint
The composition is simple, because it is made on the basis of water in which acrylic resin is dispersively dissolved - this is a coloring substance in the form of larger particles - pigments and fine insoluble powder that gives the composition color.
A distinctive feature of acrylic paint is the absence and speed of drying. smell and quick
Coloring powders can be of various origins:
- natural;
- organic;
- inorganic.
Pigments and larger particles act as fillers and are added to the composition to improve its binding properties during drying, strengthen the ink coating film and increase adhesion.
With the development of technology and the emergence of new substances, these products include various additives that act as auxiliary elements in enhancing certain qualities. But the main advantages of the main composition (durability, environmental friendliness and quick drying) remain unchanged.
What happens if you leave a tree unprotected?
In any case, the consequences will be detrimental - this includes damage to the surface, deterioration in appearance, and a significant reduction in service life.
In regions with a humid climate, the lack of protection guarantees the appearance of fungi, moss, mold and rot, which will ultimately lead to either the need for major renovations in the next few years, or to the purchase of another home in the near future.
If you are lucky with the climate and dry, hot weather protects against putrefactive processes, the decorative effect suffers.
LeikyFORUMHOUSE Member
There is a rather old and unkempt country house. The condition of the walls is as in the photo. I want to paint it to make it look better, but I've never done it. Tell me how best to prepare the surface for painting, and what paint to choose in order to leave the wood texture or, with such initial data, just cover it with opaque paint (green, brown, beige)? I thought about foaming the cracks, then going through it with a drill and a wire brush, and then sanding it around. Then cover with an antiseptic or is paint enough?
In this case, you can get by with putting the facade in order.
Technical Specialist
It is not recommended to foam all cracks; it is better to use special materials - sealants designed for sealing cracks. It is also better to treat the ends with special materials. Next, sand the surface, apply a water-based primer with high penetrating power and apply a topcoat. You can emphasize the texture using water-based glazes, for example, with a natural graying effect.
No. 3 Painting method using a candle
Worn white paint, through which in some places you can see the wood itself in its natural color, is wonderful when restoring antique furniture or creating new ones, but in the same style.
In the photo below you can see an example of such painting of wood with wonderful designer pens laid out on it.
Instructions:
Take a clean wooden board (no matter sanded or not) and a candle. Rub the candles onto the surface of the wood in several places
You need to press quite hard on the candle so that a clear trace of wax or paraffin remains on the wood. After this, paint the wood with white paint and let it dry completely. Wipe the dry painted surface with a rag, applying some pressure. In those places where there was a trace of a candle, the paint will come off the surface.
Below is an example of a white wood floor painted using this method. It is worth noting that when using this, it is better to apply a layer of protective varnish on top of the paint for more durable use.
Conclusion
To preserve the presentable appearance of the facade or decoration and prevent harmful effects, specialized protective equipment is used. They will not only emphasize the beauty of the tree, but will also help extend its service life, and timely renewal of coatings will postpone the need for replacement or reconstruction for many years.
Not only the original wooden walls need protection, but also any wood facing materials, for example, imitation timber or shingles. In the video there is a master class: a wooden sofa for the garden.
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We increase fire resistance
Protecting wood from moisture and rot is not the entire range of work that must be performed before use. One of the weak points of wooden structures is their rapid flammability. Therefore, we pay attention to solutions that can slightly increase the degree of fire resistance of wood, the so-called fire retardants. This is especially true in residential buildings.
The essence of fire retardants is that under the influence of high temperature they form a film that can delay the ignition of wood material for some time.
With the help of additional treatments against the influence of all negative factors, the reliability of a wooden structure can be significantly increased. The best treatment is up to consumers to decide depending on individual preferences and conditions.
How to protect wood from moisture (2 videos)
Different types of protective equipment (26 photos)
Tree at home - how to care for a tree at home?
Every day, it is enough to wipe wooden furniture in the house or wooden ceiling beams with a damp cloth to remove dust and dirt. After you're done cleaning your wood furniture, you still need to dry it with a paper towel. Do not use harsh chemicals for cleaning as they may damage the wood's protective coating.
Any scratches and dents on wooden countertops or furniture can be filled with a special putty of the appropriate color. Lightly rub the damaged area with 120-grit sandpaper to mask the defect. Then apply a little excess putty, let everything dry and sand the surface with sandpaper. After sanding, it is also necessary to renew the varnish with the same level of gloss as on the rest of the furniture.
Inside, wood is less susceptible to the harmful effects of moisture, insects and microorganisms, but it should still be provided with proper protection and durability. This will be possible thanks to the appropriate impregnations for this material, in addition, you will be able to adjust the shade and color of the wood to the intended interior.
